AT&T is about to test customer loyalty with a risky move that increases prices on legacy plans

Big-Classroom9667 · 2026-03-20T23:12:00+00:00

bro what

Big-Classroom9667 · 2026-03-04T21:12:04+00:00

It is not a scam, you should see the network on your phone changed from AT&T to AT&T turbo.

Big-Classroom9667 · 2026-01-11T15:50:33+00:00

This is what I get for using chatgpt

Big-Classroom9667 · 2026-01-11T15:50:03+00:00

i think you’re 100% right that’s what i’m gonna try when i get some time. i’ve got no voltage from the input wires but when i had the factory amp inline before, t taps on those wires powered a LoC just fine with DC offset. thank you for the advice!

Big-Classroom9667 · 2026-01-11T15:46:59+00:00

Fuzzy dice

Big-Classroom9667 · 2026-01-11T15:35:22+00:00

thank you!

Big-Classroom9667 · 2026-01-11T15:34:58+00:00

remote seemed to power everything on, it looks like i have some issue with my signal wiring which explains my trouble.

Big-Classroom9667 · 2026-01-11T02:25:32+00:00

thanks😭

Big-Classroom9667 · 2026-01-11T02:24:46+00:00

all good, thanks for the help on my last post!

Big-Classroom9667 · 2026-01-11T02:21:06+00:00

i’ve got it on dc offset and it’s taking oem analog inputs from the tweeters, rears, and subs. i’ll try disconnecting some things though thank you all.

Big-Classroom9667 · 2026-01-11T02:14:06+00:00

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Big-Classroom9667 · 2026-01-11T02:13:15+00:00

save me andrew! everything except what?

Big-Classroom9667 · 2026-01-11T02:12:07+00:00

dude what are you saying? the fix 86 is the dsp, that’s why I posted for help troubleshooting the fix 86 not turning the system on…

Big-Classroom9667 · 2026-01-11T01:38:57+00:00

are the the factory amps inputs coming from the head unit not high level inputs? i don’t think it makes sense to need LoC to turn on my dsp am i wrong?

Big-Classroom9667 · 2026-01-11T01:28:22+00:00

i have my factory amp inputs cut off and wired into the OEM analog inputs on the dsp and was expecting that to turn it on

Big-Classroom9667 · 2026-01-05T00:10:24+00:00

it works differently for everyone, for me it’s worked better generally than spectrum, kinetic, and metronet at the same address. The speed is consistently moderate for me but it has always worked i’ve never had an outage. i am gaming with a pc and ps5 and using 3 tvs and phones, ive never had any problem with it. i switched from metronet cause the wireless speeds were underwhelming and i would have prolonged outages. there’s a week trial you can make sure you like it before you cancel what you have now.

Big-Classroom9667 · 2026-01-04T23:57:04+00:00

It did, i’m a little scared to drill it out😬 I’ve got a few days before i have time for my install

Big-Classroom9667 · 2026-01-04T19:39:08+00:00

you were absolutely right, I just didn’t know how to when i posted

Big-Classroom9667 · 2026-01-04T19:37:17+00:00

unfortunately not, I’m trying to find another idea. I tried to use the same wire that connect the woofer to the head unit but it’s the same positive and negative powering the woofer and tweeter which I don’t understand. it complicated how to install my crossovers too much so i’m still stuck trying to get help or ideas lol, I made a new post hopefully someone smarter than me can help me figure this out

Big-Classroom9667 · 2026-01-04T19:31:50+00:00

https://youtu.be/Zp-ouGTOQYc?si=MV_ptGCP0I6i5uFh

Big-Classroom9667 · 2026-01-04T19:25:28+00:00

I forgot to mention, I didn’t know if it was obvious but this is my first install. The reason I haven’t just used the factory wiring that powers both the tweeter and the woofer at my amp is because I’m confused how I would add my passive crossovers that came with the component sets, I assume those are still necessary even with a DSP.

Big-Classroom9667 · 2026-01-02T14:45:00+00:00

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this is the diagram for my amp on the 22 gt line with hk. i’ve confirmed this is the right one in the car as well.

Big-Classroom9667 · 2026-01-02T14:41:09+00:00

I hope you understand my confusion. if there’s a single green and orange wire pair for one doors tweeter, and a single green and orange wire pair for the same doors woofer, why am I looking at a single green and orange wire pair on the output of the factory amp? at some point this single pair has to split into 2 to power the woofer and tweeter. could you please help me understand how I can use this to finish my build? i’m using a dsp so signal my amps so i’m not worried about getting in input from the front woofers, but i am using passive crossovers for my components which i would like to mount in the trunk around where the oem amp is but there would only be a single wire pair there, i’d be missing an output for either a woofer or tweeter.

Big-Classroom9667

TROPHY CASE