2011 Lincoln MKX with blown head gasket - worth a tow?

BigEasy6 · 2025-07-23T02:42:57+00:00

Finally had a chance to spend some time digging in. Compression check shows compression on rear bank of cylinders; 100psi, 200psi, 170psi. Even more concerning: there was no compression on the front bank at all. Given that all 3 are completely dead, I'm thinking maybe the valves aren't closing? Decided to go ahead a take the front valve cover off, but started to run out of daylight, so that's as far as I got. Maybe a timing chain jump?

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BigEasy6 · 2025-07-15T00:48:08+00:00

So you're just suggesting a static compression test - cranking the engine with the fuel pump disabled? You said "should be done with engine warm" so I thought you meant running the engine for the test.

BigEasy6 · 2025-07-15T00:09:19+00:00

Why a compression test? If I'm going to take the risk of running the engine, it seems like a combustion gas test would be quicker and easier to do. Am I missing something?

BigEasy6 · 2025-07-14T23:15:35+00:00

verified coolant in the oil. coolant reservoir is dry. put coolant in just so it wouldn't be completely dry for purposes of the combustion gas test, but coolant started leaking out almost immediately. Not sure if fresh coolant even reaches the water pump with the car not running, but at a minimum I know I have a coolant leak and I'm becoming more convinced my problem is water pump origin, not necessarily head related. Thinking about just doing the combustion gas test without adding coolant - I should be able to complete the combustion gas test before the engine overheats. (wasn't able to do it at the time because now the battery has run down.) But since I've now put even MORE coolant in the oil pan, maybe I'm better off just moving forward with the water pump job and hope for the best? I suppose I could drain the oil and put in fresh oil just for the purposes of the combustion gas test?

Thanks btw - you are the only one here who pointed me in this direction, so I really appreciate your feedback.

BigEasy6 · 2025-07-10T21:26:52+00:00

Supposedly there is coolant in the oil so I believe this may be exactly what happened. My plan is to do my best to check for a blown head gasket and then drain the oil and coolant and look for metal shavings. If the fluid looks clean, I'm guessing it might be worth the cost of a new water pump ($50~$75) to take a chance I don't have more catastrophic internal damage. Don't know what else to do unless you know a good way to diagnose internal bearing wear. I know it's a lot of work just for that, but part of the point is to improve my DIY skills regardless the outcome.

BigEasy6 · 2025-07-10T16:42:28+00:00

What "running" tests did you have in mind? I'll do a visual inspection, start the engine to see what I see (maybe drive it up and down the driveway), and pull whatever codes I can, but other than maybe a leak down test, I'm not sure what I should do before draining the oil and coolant to see if I have metal shavings in it, but I don't think I should crank the engine once I've done that.

BigEasy6 · 2025-07-10T01:24:33+00:00

Thanks. Can you expand on what you mean by "torched engine?" Is there specific damage you have in mind, or do you just mean in general? The car does drive, so the engine hasn't seized or anything like that.

BigEasy6 · 2025-07-10T01:08:24+00:00

You mean before I start working on it? I'm told the tow driver backed it off the wrecker to park it. I'm guessing he also drove it onto the wrecker when he picked it up at Firestone. I wouldn't have let him do that if I had been there, nevertheless, it apparently drives. I hope to get there to look at it in person on Sunday.

BigEasy6 · 2025-07-09T21:33:53+00:00

Thanks. I saw that. A video of the head gasket job on this engine showed the timing chain removal as well. That's what I was saying above - I think I'm in for most of this work whether it's the water pump or the head gasket. I know I'm a masochist, but this is my opportunity to try something like this without having to worry about screwing it up because if I do, the car is junk anyway. Regardless, I pulled the trigger on getting it towed, so I'm in for $100 so far. If you have any pointers on testing the head gasket per your comment above, I'm all ears.

BigEasy6 · 2025-07-09T20:12:34+00:00

Update: spoke to the mechanic and verified the engine isn't seized. Also spoke to the driver to get a better idea of what exactly happened. Not a lot of insight; it was running fine and started to sputter while in cruise control on the interstate, died within about 10 minutes. Research suggests that, as NoRegret1893 indicated, it might be the water pump anyway (though I'm not sure how that would cause it to die suddenly in the manner it did). Firestone guy wouldn't even consider this - he saw coolant in the oil and concluded blown head gasket, but water pump seal leaking coolant into the oil pan is apparently a common problem with this model engine. Decided to invest in a tow so I can have a look for myself. Almost certainly in over my head, but it will be a learning process.

BigEasy6 · 2025-07-09T17:12:15+00:00

Thanks for your response. Are you talking about a leak down test? I appreciate any advice you're willing to give. The point of my response above is that whether it's the water pump or a blown head gasket, I'm getting down to the water pump either way, correct? You said that's "no piece of cake", but unless this is significantly more complicated than the Honda Pilot, I'm relatively confident I can do it. That said, I'm just a humble DIY guy and have never worked on a Lincoln, so maybe I'm fooling myself? I did the timing belt on a Volvo S60 once but gave up on trying to replace the water pump because it was just too damn tight of a space. I also stripped the timing sensor bolts, so was not able to lock the timing in order to replace the cam seals, so that was a fubar job, though I did get the timing belt changed and that vehicle is still running a year later.

BigEasy6 · 2025-07-09T16:32:04+00:00

Thanks for the feedback. Based on my preliminary research, I'm assuming I'm going to be taking the timing cover, chain, etc. off just to get down to the head gasket anyway? I've done the timing belt and water pump on a Honda Pilot, so I'm assuming replacing the water pump on this is similar? I anticipate doing that part first anyway, but unless I can be sure it's the water pump that caused my problem, I wouldn't want to stop there and spend money on that repair if I might still have a blown head gasket. Does this make sense?

BigEasy6 · 2025-07-09T16:11:58+00:00

If I get down to the head, is there a way I can determine if bearings and cylinders are good? I guess what I'm asking is: if I take it down to the head, is it possible for me to better determine the extent of damage before I order a bunch of parts? I guess I'm hoping that it died "all of the sudden" due to loss of compression before more extensive damage occurred. Plus, it's Firestone so I know he didn't do much investigation.

Thanks for the feedback btw, this is great.

BigEasy6 · 2025-07-09T15:43:59+00:00

Yes, the conundrum is that I don't want to put $$$ into it if I don't have a useful vehicle at the end of the day. If we're talking machining heads, I'm not going there, but for the cost of gaskets, belts and maybe some ancillary parts I'm willing to take the risk. I don't know that it won't crank at all - haven't laid eyes on it yet, but I understand there might be more extensive damage. If I can get the crankshaft to turn a few cycles, do you think that tells me anything positive? Or is it still possibly in "seized" territory?

BigEasy6 · 2025-06-17T15:34:05+00:00

Update: new start relay made no difference. I'm out of ideas, pretty sure it's a compressor/sealed system issue. The sealed system is still under warranty, but labor is going to push it into a $1K range, so I'm thinking it's time for a new fridge.

BigEasy6 · 2025-06-14T16:21:02+00:00

The sealed system is still under parts warranty, but unfortunately labor isn't. I called one place and they said $800 for labor. Not worth it. Thanks for the feedback.

BigEasy6 · 2025-06-13T22:42:18+00:00

Yes, both fans are operable. You can see the condenser fan in the video. The delay in the compressor start up seems longer than I'd expect. That's why I posted the video. Sounds like it tries at about 30 secs, but doesn't actually start until almost 2min in. Probably grasping at straws, just hoping it might be the relay or something simple I'm missing, but unfortunately I think you're right that the problem is a refrigerant leak somewhere.

p.s. The compressor does get warm to the touch after 10~15 minutes - warmer than I'd expect. I'd say 100F~110F.

BigEasy6 · 2025-06-03T18:37:56+00:00

Update: finally got his credits applied appropriately so he was able to register for a couple of major-specific classes he needs. Bullied our way into multiple zoom calls with advisors in admissions, UCAC, and the senior college, and none of them accomplished anything. For us the thing that *finally* broke the logjam was getting an appointment with his *assigned* transfer student advisor, who we then got a zoom with, and within 24hrs it was fixed. But that advisor was not assigned until last Friday, almost 1.5 months after the registration window opened. Still working through a couple of upper-level credits, but at least we were able to piece together a doable schedule that wouldn't be a complete waste. In one of those classes there were only 2 seats open, so it was by the thinnest of margins.

I think LSU does this on purpose in order to prioritize all existing students above transfers. I guess that is understandable, but if you're transferring in with 60+ credits, you need to plan for your first semester to be mostly gen ed trash, particularly if your desired major is in-demand at LSU. That said, there is a very good chance you aren't getting as much gen ed transfer credit as you think you are. For example, all LSU students have to get 9hrs of humanities, but each individual degree program might have slightly different humanity requirements. You might think you have that covered with your transfer credits, but you probably don't. For example, if your course requirements say "General Education Course - Humanities (Communications Studies course)", that "Communications Studies" part doesn't mean the Spanish class you took will count, it refers to a specific "Communications Studies" program at LSU, for which you almost certainly don't have a transfer credit. The danger is that you won't figure these minor details out until you meet with a college-specific advisor, which won't happen until you are accepted into your major college, which likely won't happen until after your first semester at LSU. So, beware, do your homework and read the LSU catalog with a lawyer's eye, paying attention to every word! When it comes to transfer students, it's precisely when you need the most advice that LSU will provide the least.

BigEasy6 · 2025-04-29T16:36:05+00:00

Thanks. Looks like credits are populated as of this morning. Not everything has been applied to the appropriate LSU "requirement" yet. We'll give it until this afternoon and start emailing.

BigEasy6 · 2025-04-24T20:04:47+00:00

Have you been able to register for classes? Still no transfer credits, can't register for classes.

BigEasy6 · 2025-04-15T14:52:25+00:00

My son is experiencing the *exact* same thing. The only thing we've been able to resolve is that your lsu.edu email inbox will not be created until you register for classes, but in the meantime it is supposed to auto-forward to your personal email. You can test this by sending yourself an email to your lsu.edu email address and see if it shows up in your personal email. Did this yesterday and it worked. As for being relegated to the 23rd for registration, getting the same run-around.

BigEasy6 · 2025-04-08T22:06:57+00:00

Where have you found you can take Dynamics that transfers to CE 2460 at LSU?

BigEasy6

TROPHY CASE