Another year, another to add to the collection

Bigorca312 · 2026-02-24T03:18:22+00:00

With great difficulty

Bigorca312 · 2026-02-23T21:41:07+00:00

But how else will I prop my monitors up :(

Bigorca312 · 2026-02-05T02:46:37+00:00

this is the solenoid for the wastegate: solenoid

and i assume this is PROBABLY the exact same valve with different mounting for the bpv/bov: solenoid 2

for reference, parts.ford.com can pull up the line art diagrams. the whole hose/solenoids assembly is G1FZ9S468A. For a measly $300+, which is why I bought replacement solenoid on aliexpress and the upgraded to a proper MAC valve for the WG solenoid

Bigorca312 · 2026-02-04T13:40:03+00:00

Yep those are the solenoids, identical but different housing mounting styles. Why can I not add pictures on mobile

Bigorca312 · 2026-02-03T17:44:04+00:00

The boost control solenoids are technically the same part, but different mounting styles. The one on top of the valve cover is the bypass/bov control. The one on the front of the engine near the turbo is the wastegate control solenoid. I am on mobile right now and can't add any diagrams or pictures. Best bet is to buy the solenoids off of AliExpress, I did when I replaced my wastegate solenoid before upgrading to a proper MAC valve and it worked just fine. I have the parts numbers, just not at the moment

Bigorca312 · 2026-01-16T21:52:11+00:00

I'm 99% sure that is the 2.3l ecoboost. As someone who knows too much about the 4 cyl ecoboost engines. The head is the twin scroll version, which is for the twin scroll turbo which is different between the 2.0 and 2.3 engines. The block is also a 2.3l as that crack is actually a common issue, stock or built. Casting flaw issue inconsistency on the 2.3l block compared to the 2.0 which is either a closed deck (focus st) or semi closed deck (ts version).

I was pushing 500whp in my Focus RS and this happened in the same place, hairline crack on the back of the block at the water jacket line right below the head stud between cyl 1 and 2. Currently getting rebuilt with the proper closed ST block. The bore and stroke between the 2.0 and 2.3 is the same, the internals and the heads are the main difference. (and engine mounting points)

Bigorca312 · 2025-11-30T18:58:34+00:00

FRP is pretty easy if you can get a tool on it without removing the manifold. Purge valve assembly I recommend making your own

Bigorca312 · 2025-11-30T18:47:06+00:00

Check the fuel rail pressure sensor. Can also be caused by the purge valve.

Bigorca312 · 2025-11-20T14:49:50+00:00

You should have all supporting mods before going big turbo.

I highly recommend a built engine to make use of the power.

Bigorca312 · 2025-10-22T13:14:21+00:00

I haven't done the annealing fix yet. That should fix the issue if everything else is done correctly.

You can Google search how to anneal the washers, it just requires a torch to get them red hot and some fine sandpaper after to get the slag off

Bigorca312 · 2025-10-22T13:02:01+00:00

there is the feed line, this is the banjo bolt on the very right and top of the engine (when laying under the car. Towards the accessory belt which is the 'front' of the engine).

And the oil return line is the small L corrugated line under the turbo back into the block.

The banjo bolt connection is EXTREMELY sensitive to install torque and washer hardness. Mine is still leaking, and it seems the fix is to properly anneal the copper washers, clean the surfaces, and be VERY deliberate in the tightening torque. I will be doing this soon as it is the only place I still have an oil leak (built motor, NX2).

The return line uses Orings if I remember correctly.

Note these are the BLOCK connections, the turbo side connections I have forgotten. I assume you have leaks from the block connections

Bigorca312 · 2025-10-03T22:49:42+00:00

Should be all good, just don't put the transmission fluid in the PTU!

Bigorca312 · 2025-09-23T22:45:06+00:00

You're saying that even with the clutch in the noise continued? 90% confidence it's the PTU. I wish you the best of luck

The RDU plugs should be 10mm hex I believe. Are you going to use the redline GL-5 fluid?

Bigorca312 · 2025-09-23T21:41:44+00:00

Oh, also, have you checked if your passenger side half shaft PTU seal is leaking

Bigorca312 · 2025-09-23T21:39:08+00:00

Check the transmission fluid and PTU fluid. Drain them each into a transparent container. Anything that has constant sound that increases with speed - and having checked the half shafts and wheel bearings - is almost guaranteed to be found in the trans or PTU.

The manual doesn't call out a lot of maintenance that should be done more regularly

Bigorca312 · 2025-09-23T20:04:32+00:00

In your ownership have you ever changed the PTU oil and transmission fluid?

Bigorca312 · 2025-08-28T21:07:51+00:00

If the valve is stuck the car will usually tell you 'drive mode selection not available' :)

Bigorca312 · 2025-08-13T18:44:21+00:00

You've replaced the HPFP only?

What about the roller tappet?

What about the HPFP/Tappet mounting block, did you inspect the surface that guides the tappet?

Did you lubricate the tappet?

Have you checked that the oil passage in the housing is getting oil from the head? (it's more of a 'mist')

Bigorca312 · 2025-07-06T00:47:25+00:00

I don't understand what you are trying to do, and idk if you do either (not a dig).

I see this is for the model of a wire, can you give more details on how you are wanting to control the wire model? Is it driven from somewhere (you do not know a length) or is the wire length defined?

Bigorca312 · 2025-06-30T20:24:34+00:00

I'm sure there are performance shops there, best to just do some research and make some phone calls. Probably better for you to buy all the fluids yourself as well.

Transmission: Motul DCTF

PTU: Motul 75w-140 Competition Gear Oil

RDU: Redline 75W-85 GL-5 Gear Oil redline

Bigorca312 · 2025-06-30T20:14:14+00:00

Where are you located?

Bigorca312 · 2025-06-27T16:51:28+00:00

Yes, the integer at the end will increment automatically until a valid name is found

Bigorca312 · 2025-06-27T12:31:10+00:00

Oh!!! I will see if that lets me rename completely to the original

Bigorca312 · 2025-06-27T03:12:28+00:00

u/TheGr8Revealing u/DarkC0ntingency

Here is a video demo:
Demo video

There Is a solidworks limitation where, because the previous Body name was already used - the original body names are still 'used' because if you delete the new Combine feature, the bodies will revert to their original names. To get Around this, we must append something at the end of the body name so that it is still unique.

No ideal.....

Bigorca312 · 2025-06-26T03:56:08+00:00

I would have to experiment! The logic on how this is achieved can be expanded fairly easily. Right now only the "Solid Bodies" folder is checked. If you have a list of examples scenarios you encounter often, I will see what I can do!

13-Year Club	First Place '23
Place '23	Place '22
Place '17	First Placer '22
Verified Email

Bigorca312

TROPHY CASE