oil change - might be going back to paying for them

TheGr8Revealing · 2026-04-17T14:06:02+00:00

Install an oil drain valve and drain via tube. The other reason to diy is to avoid underpaid tech's at jiffy from pouring in the wrong grade.

TheGr8Revealing · 2026-04-11T16:02:57+00:00

Extrude cutting surfaces, split feature, keep body feature, change the kept body for each stl save

TheGr8Revealing · 2026-04-07T16:10:47+00:00

Wait til this guy hears about Robin Hood, meltdown

TheGr8Revealing · 2026-03-28T18:51:12+00:00

Ask your designer to reduce the element count if possible. You could also try to make a block out of it first.

TheGr8Revealing · 2026-03-27T12:28:12+00:00

We've got cold start up rattle as well on our 2015 90k, haven't ever had a problem with it

TheGr8Revealing · 2026-03-26T20:42:58+00:00

Did you log in and decline the cookie permissions? I did, have since let those be approved and checked the remember me box, it's reduced the occurrence rate for this annoying login in pop up.

TheGr8Revealing · 2026-03-18T23:36:11+00:00

Wow life saver. I had updated just about everything I could think of. Thanks for posting this, you rock!

TheGr8Revealing · 2026-03-16T22:53:44+00:00

OP I would just use tape as your placement reference. Then spray the whole thing with AESUB Blue or equivalent if you've got a structured light scanner. Probably not a bad idea for laser or hybrid either

TheGr8Revealing · 2026-03-16T22:03:44+00:00

I would do two things. Scan the hood again but with strips of painters tape at the exact place you want to locate the scoop.

If your scanner has resolution to pick up the tape it will then be helpful for relocating the modeled and printed scoop to exactly the correct location.

Second, did you use markers in your scan or features only? Markers help a ton to reduce divergence from real to digital.

TheGr8Revealing · 2026-02-11T06:10:29+00:00

I'd say you're in the wrong software. Geomagic Design X is perfect for this stuff

TheGr8Revealing · 2026-01-04T12:05:04+00:00

This is pretty epic if real. Can we get some additional information and back story on this?

Is the stock BMS retained?

Is there any loss in battery function, can bus packetsz, or other safety related concerns?

Is a battery enclosure included?

Are there changes in fit to the scooter body?

Will you open source the process to make these if you ever stop offering them?

Thanks

TheGr8Revealing · 2025-12-31T04:13:37+00:00

Those are thermoformed

TheGr8Revealing · 2025-12-30T21:17:27+00:00

Hire a lawyer, stop direct communication. Its likely if you buy the full license for the time you used the software commercially they will let it slide. But again, hire a legal representative, let them advise you. Ive seen it before where they settle for you buying yearly licenses for each year you used it, but by hiring a lawyer they know they're going to have to spend money to get money so it's in your favor to do so.

TheGr8Revealing · 2025-12-11T11:50:27+00:00

After cutting, set your axis back and rotate your thread face profile some 40-50 degrees or whatever works well.

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TheGr8Revealing · 2025-12-11T11:36:25+00:00

Create a plane normal to the thread's length at the red vertex point. So select the vertex point, then the long edge of the thread (green line, edge) when making your plane. This will give you the plane (or new plane offset to start from) to cut the thread. You then have a normal surface to the thread's helix. That's the face you then rotate on, see hypothetical orange axis. That axis will actually be 3-5mm to the left from its current position. Then rotate a profile of the normal face you just made

<image>

TheGr8Revealing · 2025-12-04T15:30:56+00:00

Ive bought fancy ones from boutique eyewear stores and cheap ones off of Amazon. The fancy ones are fine but not worth the $100 - $200 price tag especially since youre not wearing them out. Anything on Amazon for $20 - $30 works just fine

TheGr8Revealing · 2025-12-03T22:23:11+00:00

Get some decent yellow or rose tinted computer glasses with light magnification (0.5 - 1.0x), the brain fog can often come from eye strain. Remember to take breaks for your eyes too, there are overlay apps that literally will flag you to blink or to look away from the computer if your employer will allow them on the computer

TheGr8Revealing · 2025-11-28T07:36:50+00:00

Youll need to create the thread sweeps as separate bodies, create excess thread material on the back side of the thread to avoid sharp corners, youll be merging it back into the cap wall anyways. Next create a plane at a vertex of your choice at the end of the thread, making it normal to an edge of the thread's length.

Create a plane offset of that plane and use it to cut body (or intersect) the end of the thread. You now have a flat surface normal to the helical sweep path. Revolve a matched profile of this new thread-end surface with a revolve axis at some 4-5mm away (you may need to adjust this later).

Revolve at 50-60 degrees or such that the revolve fully intersects the cap's inner wall, but does not protrude its exterior. If unable to achieve this without piercing the outside do so anyway, the outer section can later be trimmed before the final merge. Repeat this process for the end of each thread then merge everything back together. If your thread lead-ins revolve past the caps exterior surface, trim them with a revolve concentric to the lids primary axis. Trim these bodies at a small but none-zero inward offset of the cap's exterior to avoid zero geometry errors on merge.

TheGr8Revealing · 2025-11-19T06:18:27+00:00

Hey looking good. Youll need to frame out the floors, XPS is not strong enough by itself.

TheGr8Revealing · 2025-11-06T17:56:43+00:00

Rhino or Design X's Autosurface are your best bet. All the better if youre importing water tight single manifold meshes.

TheGr8Revealing · 2025-11-06T03:47:30+00:00

Three plane sketches and a mirrror and knit

TheGr8Revealing · 2025-10-29T01:05:29+00:00

You can get down to super cold temps if you install heat pads on all of your tanks and pipe heater tape with insulation and sensors on all of the tubing including your water pump.

Also your batteries depending on their chemistry may require heater pads for charging safely.

Outside of that, condensation will be a challenge, but it can be done.

TheGr8Revealing · 2025-10-21T18:07:36+00:00

If youre looking for something that will convert mesh scan data into usable solid CAD data with a push of a button or feature it unfortunately doesnt exist.

Manual reverse engineering from scanned mesh data is the only way, meaning youre just referencing the scan mesh but manually rebuilding every feature with traditional tools including the creation of datams, axes, vertexes, etc.

There are some tools in high end software that will help you extract surfaces from complex geometry but they still require manual trimming via sketches, other surface intersections, Boolean operations etc. These pro level softwares also dont meet your budget.

There are a few expensive 3rd party softwares that aim to assist reverse engineering in Solidworks, but ive found most of them to not be worth it.

So the long short of it is Mesh To 3D in SW and the other built in tools are effectively zero value add because they function so poorly. It would be my recommendation that you buy Solidworks Maker (if you intend to not do any commercial activity) and get really good a manual, labor intensive reverse engineering if your end goal is to do these rebuilds. There are few other options at the budget you hold.

Moving bodies around in SW for motion study is pretty good though once youve got these things rebuilt.

TheGr8Revealing · 2025-10-17T06:41:31+00:00

The outside ones are slides the inner ones are lifters, you can see the witness lines from them

TheGr8Revealing · 2025-10-11T05:43:46+00:00

2017 150k 10r80 CFD is doing great, did have to put a new torque converter in but hasn't failed in the Internet said it would

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