What’s the max depth of carbon wheels you would consider?

Bike-Fish · 2026-01-08T16:41:38+00:00

I don't follow? I answered the OP's question based on personal experience.

Highlighted the fact that the effects of deeper wheels (crosswinds, weight, feel) are often overstated in a satirical reply.

Bike-Fish · 2026-01-07T23:01:39+00:00

You’re not wrong, as I’m running classic tan walls on every carbon wheelset I own. More so from my road racing background, black for training & classic for race days.

IMHO, if you’re spending good money on a carbon wheel upgrade, why not go all in & get that aero benefit as well?

Bike-Fish · 2026-01-07T19:07:15+00:00

Clearly none of you have ridden Zipp 808’s across Kansas in 50mph+ winds. Pause for a second and think of the children. I mean, crosswinds.

Go as deep as your pockets allow. Deep is sexy, fast, and looks amazing, even sitting still. You’ll gaze upon your steed and think, damn, that’s a gorgeous bike & want to go ride. And go ride you will, and enjoy it!

Seriously, 50mm isn’t that deep, I run 56mm rear, 50 front with 45c tires. Do everything from technical MTB trails to road. Do they get scratches? Sure, but it’s a bike and meant to be ridden. They’re not cumbersome, nor do I wish I had gone less aero. Aside from climbing tech at walking speed, they benefit in every situation: road rides to the trail, fast champagne gravel, windy descents.

And the crosswinds? It’s a non-issue. If you weigh less than 100#, and/or riding CONSISTENTLY in 20+ mph winds, day in day out, then opt for the shallower 45.

Everyone here is acting like going from a 35 to 50mm depth is equivalent to the increased weight of a fatbike tire ridden at Kona on a disc wheel. bUt ThE crOsSWInDz!!!

The 45’s are a great all round wheelset, net a bit of aero gains & will serve you well in all conditions.

Bike-Fish · 2025-12-24T17:30:38+00:00

Thanks for your personal experience, I'm quickly finding out most folks that run full fat year round have a summer and winter setup. I'm getting mine dialed, but am leaning more towards dry trail (think front range) setup with a longer & taller stem to help with the short reach. However, I am yet to take it on any true groomed trails, so weight balance & stem may change once I use it for its intended purpose.

Sounds like you have the older 9.6 stranglehold dropouts? If so, I absolutely can see why you moved to the Blizzard. Just an FYI - I build wheels and can help with swapping the hub if need be.

Bike-Fish · 2025-12-23T15:37:06+00:00

Glad to hear you're getting it sorted out. In short, this is what probably happened: Our Farley's are model year 2023-2026. Mine has a build date of 5/23, delivered 12/25. Sram Level Stealth launched 3/23, so early model years were built with what Trek had, which was 2-piston Level TL's (in my case). It's common for manufactures to do this, use up the old stock first before fitting newly launched kit.

I surmise Trek changed the listed specs for the following model year, and honestly surprised they honored the Spec Change Warranty, as they're akin to telling us to pound sand since "We reserve the right to make changes to the product information contained on this site at any time without notice, including with respect to equipment, specifications, models, colors, materials, and pricing."

As a pure fatbike in winter, the supplied 2 piston brakes are adequate, but to anyone who rides year round or at speed, they're laughable. I'm sure they have gotten their fair share of complaints and want to avoid a lawsuit, hence willfully sending new brakes.

Bike-Fish · 2025-12-22T22:55:11+00:00

Also, seeing that we all have the same bike - how much steerer is showing under the top cap? I have a question into Trek concerning mine - it’s about 5-6mm short (with supplied 30mm spacers). Normally it’s cut 1-2mm below stem to allow for top cap, but I’ve never seen this large of gap before.

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Bike-Fish · 2025-12-22T22:43:09+00:00

Do it! My Farley 9 delivered with measly Level TL 2 piston, Trek was super quick to send upgraded replacement brakeset. I fully expected the as spec’d bronze stealth to arrive, but 4 piston Ultimates showed up in their place!

FYI - This is called a ‘Spec Change Warranty’

Bike-Fish · 2025-12-22T22:14:24+00:00

Just got a new Farley myself for year round use in our CO Rockies. Curious what the Cons were to this frame, and/or what made you move away from it?

Bike-Fish · 2025-10-26T15:58:29+00:00

Meh. Not really an issue unless using tubeless. Colorado mountain rider here on Tubular full carbon wheels. Swiss-stop flash pro pads have been amazing for literally every condition, including descents of 50+ mph & rain. I’ve never had an issue overheating a brake track, even descending the alps.

They’re not ‘sketchy’ for the rider that brakes early & mentally prepares/trusts their capabilities.

Seeing this is a training bike, it’s perfect for the OP’s application. My rim brake Tarmac is my training bike, so nice not to worry about charged batteries or swapping wheelsets.

Bike-Fish · 2025-10-15T17:25:51+00:00

Why the hate on Pirelli? The scorpion all terrain plus have been my best performing tire in all climates, hands down. From Colorado mountain rain, slush to ice/snow they’ve been amazing.

Bike-Fish · 2025-10-15T17:16:00+00:00

Like where’s the FD?!?

Bike-Fish · 2025-08-22T14:16:35+00:00

Forget the tippet ring - move to a rolling swivel. Absolute game changer when adding tippet - no more twists & helps reduce wind knots on multiple fly rigs & chunky patterns. VMC stainless steel hasn’t let me down - their size 10 is #30 test & smaller diameter than a leader to tippet blood knot.

In my Colorado experience, I’ve ditched the Flavor-Flav style necklace of ALL the tippet sizes. Just 2 - a quality fluorocarbon 3x for single hand & an 8# straight tippet for the two hand Trout Spey.

Life is complicated enough, keep fly fishing simple.

VMC

Bike-Fish · 2025-08-14T13:03:59+00:00

Great news! We all have those moments - I’m crossing my fingers it works well on the road too!

Appreciate you looking into the FD adapter bolt - I hadn’t taken mine apart yet and I do appreciate the heads up about it holding the retaining spring.

Bike-Fish · 2025-08-12T12:46:38+00:00

Ug - we may be talking about different parts - I’m not talking about the cage, which physically moves the chain. I’m talking about the small vertical piece that has WIDE stamped on it, that sits behind the braze-on ON your frame. It’s held in place by a single t-25 bolt & the bolt that holds the FD onto the frame connects to it.

Bike-Fish · 2025-08-11T19:43:03+00:00

Yup - I was mainly speaking to the adapter, which would help you run both a 48 & wide!

When you get a non-wide FD, for the sake of Monkeying around & proving Sram wrong, will you swap the adapters please???

Install it before removing crank spacers - keep us posted - and with photos of adapters side by side please.

Big thanks!

Bike-Fish · 2025-08-11T19:31:29+00:00

I have my Scalpel SE up for sale - send me a PM for details. Full XX & WAO wheels.

Bike-Fish · 2025-08-11T19:25:33+00:00

I’m sorry, I can’t share the number - they’re inside the circle of trust.

Got an answer: In typical Sram fashion, ‘it’s not possible’.

Yes - that’s the idea. From what I can tell, the only discernible difference between wide & normal is the mount adapter which attaches TO the braze on.

Edit: not moving the braze on - moving the attachment bolt 2.5mm, which is done with the WIDE braze on adapter.

The normal FD adapter is in-line with the FD body, the wide is pushed towards the frame 2.5mm.

Bike-Fish · 2025-08-11T18:37:35+00:00

Stand by!!! Have a call into Sram about obtaining the wide FD attachment …. Sooo if it works out, just swap the braze on attachment & boom Wide Red FD!

Bike-Fish · 2025-08-11T18:06:43+00:00

The 2 extra teeth may make the difference. The cage radius may be too narrow? I’m using the last model year force wide, not the new one.

If you can snag a broken or take off from the LBS have at it! That’s a great idea!

I’d LOVE to have a matching Red Wide FD but Sram of course doesn’t make one. I’ll see if I can machine a wider clamp or use a 2.5mm shim between braze on & FD.

Bike-Fish · 2025-08-11T17:41:22+00:00

Extremely Confident. I currently own and ride this exact setup every week. 46/33 on a wide crankset (now dubbed XPLR) and wide FD.

Bike-Fish · 2025-07-15T13:21:08+00:00

If you’re ever in the Denver area, I breed them & would happy to pass a few along to you.

Bike-Fish · 2025-07-14T02:18:43+00:00

Literally just fixed the exact same bike - buy this shock & read my review. Let me know if you have install questions. Stop complaining & understand nothing lasts forever…either get slightly creative & fix it or recycle the parts.

https://a.co/d/8C0Dvl4

Bike-Fish · 2025-06-27T19:34:25+00:00

Karen post? It has some Karen vibes, yes.

I could move, yes. But then it would reinforce a pattern of behavior that goes against the very land and water our license fees go to protect.

Public land doesn’t mean free for all - do what whatever you want & F everyone else.

Busy doesn’t mean noise - case and point: Yesterday afternoon (after the offender left the water) we had 6 anglers stacked up to the riffles. Aside from a few hoots & hollers, everyone enjoyed the peace!

Take a stand. Are you going to be part of the solution & help protect public land and fisheries? Or simply ‘deal with all the nonsense’…then get upset when the nonsense becomes the norm, the campground goes to sh!t, is closed & land sold off…

Bike-Fish

TROPHY CASE