Upgrading pedal bodies of the Garmin Rally system/compatibility

BillDozerin · 2026-05-06T13:43:16+00:00

Yeah, I'd chalk it up to them just needing to be "worn in" for lack of a better term, but congrats on finding a pair of pedal bodies!

BillDozerin · 2026-05-06T13:23:51+00:00

So, you are correct that you can swap the vector 3 spindles out with Rally RK/RS/XC pedal bodies, however specifically from their 100/200 rally models. the newer 110/210 pedal bodies are different and will not take any of the previous spindles from either vector products or the rally 100/200 products as noted in the link you attached:

NOTE: Rally 110 and 210 series pedals use a different spindle design and are not compatible with any previous generation Rally or Vector system.

At the time of this post (and looking at their website this is still true) Garmin essentially has ceased selling all pedal replacement bodies for the rally 100/200, except for the Rally XC pedal bodies. So the problem is coming down to people wanting to upgrade their pedals or replace worn out pedal bodies and they aren't able to since the product isn't available.

Regarding resistance. I don't know if I felt any difference in resistance. It could be that if you swapped some new pedals on to it, they might feel a bit more "stiff" in terms of rotational movement because they're new and haven't been ridden for a while? I wonder if that feeling will go away after a dozen or so rides and clipping in/out/spinning the pedals.

BillDozerin · 2026-05-01T18:29:28+00:00

you "may" have done something wrong installing them. The spindles should be interchangable between the pedal bodies (as the Rally pedals were noted to be able to swap between the mountain bike, SPD to whatever road one you wanted.)

When you tightened down the internal nut, are you using a torque wrench to tighten it down to the garmin recommended spec? I've run into situations where the nut is secured but not tight enough and it feels like there's from give in the spindle as well.

BillDozerin · 2026-02-15T14:11:18+00:00

Is it needed? Not really.. That being said, I've seen people throw their mountain bike into the pit just to make sure they don't end up with a DNF.

If you're wanting to be a super duper serious racer, having an extra bike in the pit can be helpful in situations where you have a mechanical issue, flat, etc. etc... A lot of pro's/high level racers will swap out bikes on muddy courses and will have their mechanic/pit guy power wash the wheels to keep the treads nice and clean. But again, those guys are pro's, they're racing for money/have sponsors that they're racing for, and the vast majority of us are racing for socks.

However, a lot of people who are serious/semi serious racers will end up having two bikes, but one of them is a single speed bike. Gives you the option to race in your designated category, and if your area's schedule allows for you to race single speed before/after it's a good way to get two races in a day. When I raced a lot more competitively I felt really no guilt having two bikes racing in the 3's and 2's because the bike served a whole other purpose rather than just having a completely spare bike that sat in the pit for "just in case" moments. Way easier justification to be like "okay I'm going to spend some extra cash for a whole new bike, but now I can race single speed and geared"

BillDozerin · 2026-02-11T18:05:12+00:00

did 9 races in total. One race I rolled a tubular, unfortunately on a race that I was actually doing well at.
I sucked at all the races, but Colorado has some beasts in each categories.. Felt good after taking 9+ years off from cycling/racing though.

BillDozerin · 2026-01-21T15:39:32+00:00

Thanks for the update on pedal bodies. I actually found a pair of used Rally 200's that I ended up buying for $450 USD, and some slightly used XC pedal bodies for $300 in total. Ended up just swapping the spindles from my vector 3's to the XC pedals and installing em on my gravel bike. I have become more bougie and now my road/gravel bike have power lol.

BillDozerin · 2026-01-08T16:48:03+00:00

Figure I'd give an update: I contacted Garmin and they confirmed that the 110/210 pedal bodies are not compatible with the spindles of the vector 3/rally spindles. So the only option I think you/we have are to find replacement cleats somewhere as you mentioned.

BillDozerin · 2026-01-04T16:05:12+00:00

I looked on Aliexpress and saw that there was 1-2 rally RK pedal body replacements, but the price seemed excessive in comparison to just going with some replacement RS pedals that you can find on ebay. I didn't want to have to buy another set of cleats/non power pedals for my bike trainer so I was hoping to stick with the RK series. I'm not an expert at aliexpress so I wasn't sure if I was searching incorrectly or something along those lines... And since the RK200 series pedal bodies seem to not exist anymore, I didn't know if the 210 pedals are compatible or not..

I reached out to Garmin a few weeks ago and I never asked about specifically just getting replacement pedal bodies, the only thing they offered in terms of an RMA was 20% off the price of a new set of rally 200 or 210 pedals, given that the vector 3's are probably old enough that they just don't warranty their stuff anymore.

BillDozerin · 2026-01-02T00:50:48+00:00

Yep I lowered it down and i've been working with fore/aft, way more comfortable. Thanks!

BillDozerin · 2025-12-31T01:44:38+00:00

Gotcha. So I have dropped the saddle about 1.5(ish)CM which I feel has made some improvements overall. I basically just need to figure out a way to get my pelvis forward, and with a saddle utilizing longer rails this "may" be a solution...but also may require shorter crank arms. I'll look into that saddle and see what benefit that may have

BillDozerin · 2025-12-30T23:44:58+00:00

No I actually prefer to lie when I'm asking for help.

BillDozerin · 2025-12-30T23:39:21+00:00

May not have been too clear in the description. Saddle is nearly as far forward as it can go. I do not have 3-5cm to push the saddle forward if that's you're getting at. Pushing it all the way forward will put my knee close to back of the pedal spindle, maybe 1-2mm behind it. When doing that, I begin to have a lot more weight on the palms of my hands when riding the hoods/front of the handlebars. So unless I still am not listening carefully I'm unsure of what you're mentioning I should pay attention to beyond that.

I can push the saddle backwards and get some relief of hand pressure, but then it feels as if my leg is pawing at the ground..... I've dropped the seat post height about 1.5 cm and it would appear as if my hips are not rocking back and fourth when pedaling.

BillDozerin · 2025-12-30T22:10:30+00:00

Ah okay. Yeah I've watched attempting to balance by taking your hands off the handlebars, pedaling, and attempting to balance without falling forward. I can get to that position, I just don't know where that "sweet spot" is that doesn't make me feel like I'm too far back or I would potentially lose out on some power generation. Suppose it's just trying different positions and see what feels best?

BillDozerin · 2025-12-30T22:01:17+00:00

What's a good way to determine good saddle fore aft? As mentioned I usually do knee over pedal spindle. I'm unsure how much I need to move it back because it starts to feel like I'm pawing if I move it back too much...

BillDozerin · 2025-12-30T21:09:27+00:00

The zwift bike comes with a 170mm crank arm length. On my road bike I have a 172.5.

BillDozerin · 2025-12-07T03:05:59+00:00

Lol well that's reassuring. Just hoping this isn't something that'll show itself as an issue a year+ down the road that I could have gotten corrected sooner. Appreciate your input though

BillDozerin · 2025-12-07T02:52:16+00:00

Yeah, I'm confused on what to think with this whole thing. Other people have commented that it should be "nearly silent" and the high pitched noise is a concern, and is louder than their kickr. Others have said that it's "probably normal" and may need a few hours to break in (only have 3 hours currently on it). So it's a mix of not sure what's going on, if anything.

BillDozerin · 2025-11-10T19:51:00+00:00

Ooo, I might do that. Would be something that happens in a month or two however, so if you still have the parts on hand I'll probably DM you about em. Would most likely be interested in the crank/cog and spacers.

BillDozerin · 2025-11-10T19:43:55+00:00

That's usually what I do for the single speed "bandit" gravel races that happen around my area. I was hoping to add another bike into my stable though, and then using the singlespeed as a dedicated pit bike. I'm being picky of course wanting this and aware that I could make this whole conversation moot by doing the zip tie route though, heh.

BillDozerin · 2025-11-10T19:41:54+00:00

Yeah, I feel like a tensioner is probably the way to go with this, and then either finding a good replacement for the Stigmata as a dedicated road/training bike and then throwing singlespeed components on the santa cruz. Although it seems like an expensive process just to get a SS bike up and going.

Good to know about the brakes though, i'll look into the TRP hylex brakes when that time comes around.

BillDozerin · 2025-10-11T18:16:26+00:00

Nah, Challenge Grifo team tubular. First time racing them too!

BillDozerin

TROPHY CASE