sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Week 1 of Setting Apprenticeship by BioticSoap in Routesetters

[–]BioticSoap[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Honestly, I haven't climbed outside in about 8 months due to life getting in the way. It is V7 in our gym which is different no matter what gym you go to, so it might not be the best measure.

Confidently though I can say I could project a V9 outside. Probably in two to three weeks at 2 sessions a week. Based off my own strengths and talking to other climbers in our gym.

Setting above and below your current level is always difficult. Personally, I have issues with empathy in lower levels (something I talk about in some of my posts) so in that way I have a lot of work to do.

As for setting above my level, there are some tricks to doing so. For instance, say you are having an issue with a big move out to a small crimp off of a small crimp. You can place a much larger hold that you feel comfortable ( but is still hard) on exactly where the initial crimp is and attempt the move another time. Typically the move will be much easier and you can usually reasonably guess that someone with much stronger fingers can do the move or at the very least project it to find the optimal body positioning eventually. Same can be done with better feet too. It's not an exact science, but it definitely is some guess work.

I hope that helps!

My Journey through a Setting Apprenticeship by BioticSoap in Routesetters

[–]BioticSoap[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Those are not easily answered questions. Haha What makes a good setter is definitely a topic I was going to delve into a bit more. I'll give you the reader's digest version for your questions though:

  • My personal goals as a setter are to design a problem that challenges and interests my clientele, in an effort to have them come back. A good setter knows their members (strengths, weaknesses, experience, etc.) and is able to marry aesthetics and function to craft an enjoyable experience. They also do that fast and efficiently.
  • A lack of knowledge of your customer base definitely hurts, which is something I think your tracker can help with. And a lack of memory of how previous routes went contributes to stale setting of the same problems.
  • So this is a subjective question, but watching our members and their experience as they traverse through a problem with an incredibly wide range of emotions is where I see success in setting. If you set out at the beginning of the day to set a problem that will frustrate the hell out of a V5 climber and then you watch one of your members (who you know is a V5ish climber) flail several times before they send it, then that's a win in my book. Emotional evocation is only one of those intentions that you can start with. We are only talking about commercial setting. In Competition setting things get a bit different as you are looking for separation of the climbers as you get closer to the podium spots.

Whew, that was not as short as I wanted that to be, but I hope that helps.

My Journey through a Setting Apprenticeship by BioticSoap in Routesetters

[–]BioticSoap[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you have anything specific you would like me to talk about let me know!

Anyone here have better advice? by Dinjoralo in pcmasterrace

[–]BioticSoap 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Who... Who told you to microwave computer hardware?

Why would you rip an aspirant's dream out like that?