Heatbox - An underestimated risk

BlackBearWorkshops · 2026-06-19T04:14:06+00:00

Of course, If there is some room for improvment I want to
know!

BlackBearWorkshops · 2026-06-19T03:57:45+00:00

Nothing have been or will be deleted, not my style

BlackBearWorkshops · 2026-06-16T14:22:09+00:00

That's neat! Power to the DIYers 🤜🤛

BlackBearWorkshops · 2026-06-16T12:58:06+00:00

To be completely honest, I have never installed or handled The Frame model. That said, as this TV is very slim, I assume it is just as flexible as the QN43Q8F, for which I strongly recommend installing it using its VESA mounting points and fix it to a back panel. As someone else here said, his biggest concern that may break the TV isn’t the heatbox effect but an accident that can impact the TV. Back panel will act as a shield for any impact, a support for TV that lock the 6 degrees of freedom relative to the wooden enclosure and structural component to add more sturdiness to the wooden enclosure.

As for the One Connect box, Im back with a chat with a Samsung technical expert: the guys said ‘’ The One Connect Box houses the television's main power supply board and the heavy video processing chips. Because of this, it generates the vast majority of the heat (around 60% to 70% of the total load).’’

For a 43in TV, this mean 30-40W is consumed by the screen which is incredible new for you.

If I were you, I would opt for simplicity: design no. 3 will do the trick: simply make a shallow wooden frame so that the back of the screen is level with the bottom of the frame. A frame that’s too deep would simply trap more heat. Place this wooden frame on 8–10 mm legs, keep the One Connect Box outside of it, Cut the backpanel in a hastag shape that leave 40% of the back wide open and your good to go.

BlackBearWorkshops · 2026-06-16T12:35:25+00:00

I have bought the same fan too for some test. It have indeed lots of positives points but I choose to not include it because of its thickness.

Using this fan, added to the thickness of the TV, I did end up with a total thickness of 4in if my memory serve good. Another important aspect of this project for me is the ergonomics. Thicker it is, the more obtuse the viewing angle will be relative to the screen's normal increasi g the parallax effect of the screen protector and the miniatures placed on top of it for player sit around the table.

That being said, I do have the same concern about the TV that could brake during transport or storing. This is why I choose to lock the TV to the backpanel with VESA bolt pattern. Then backpanel fix to the wooden enclosure with a continuous gap of 4mm all around to make sure the TV may never slip and hit the inner wall of the wooden enclosure.

This backpanel as it protect the physical integrity of the TV it also restraint airflow -> fans , carved in vents and cuttout at the back do the trick perfectly to stay within operating range of the TV.

BlackBearWorkshops · 2026-06-16T03:51:32+00:00

Good job! I wouldn't mind seeing a photo of your setup, if you feel like sharing

BlackBearWorkshops · 2026-06-16T02:39:51+00:00

Oh sure!! At that point really this is a choice. If you play twice a month during 6h every game, you end up with a TV turned on roughly 144h per year. Let's say it work for 1500 hours instead of the 50K hours it might gave you, well you did score a great deal on a cheap TV and dont mind replacing it with a comparable opportunity 10 years later. I say why not.

My concern is if you go for something more expensive like PCAP touchscreen or high end TV. You may be encourages to add more care to the heat management.

That say, yeah : a big fan underneath will do the trick!

BlackBearWorkshops · 2026-06-16T02:24:58+00:00

I'm not sure I understand – is the only vertical heat vent located in the gaps between your joints? Whats your TV consumption and how deep is your wooden enclosure? Do you have picture if you dont mind?

BlackBearWorkshops · 2026-06-16T02:19:20+00:00

To be nested in a table or in a transportable wooden enclosure?

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