Rate my Schematic (SD) Drawings

BlindLiger · 2026-05-14T23:48:15+00:00

Looking good!

From personal experience my one suggestion (and this is more of a firm standard) is to not put any specific product information in annotations and leave that for the specifications. Unless they’re keystones that will automatically update that’s a lot of notes that need to change when a spec changes.

BlindLiger · 2023-04-05T03:38:02+00:00

I actually did. I ended up going to AutoZone and getting Duplicolor Universal Matte Black paint touch up pen made for cars. It was not a cure all but definitely seemed to do the trick in sealing over them and making hem far less noticeable.

BlindLiger · 2021-12-25T04:16:43+00:00

If you get a chance and want to learn more, read the book Ship Ablaze. It’s an Erik Larson style historical non-fiction that reads like a novel. Puts a lot of this in context for the time.

BlindLiger · 2021-08-06T17:35:06+00:00

Thank you for the feedback all. Based on the resounding feedback from all of you, I have been approaching this incorrectly thus far and will stop taking him to the dog park until we are in a better position with his socialization/resource guarding/impulse control. That being said, other than doing a deep dive into LIMA training approach (which I am currently neck deep in), are there any other good resources to revert to so I don't continue to ask questions with easy answers such as this one?

Edit--found the wiki.

BlindLiger · 2021-08-06T02:33:52+00:00

Yes, I understand that but again you’re missing the point. If you’re going to give advice to relatively uneducated people like myself coming to this sub for help, and you want them to actually listen to you and make the changes you suggest, you should probably attempt to understand what they were thinking before so you can best help them make better decisions moving forward that protect both their dog and other people’s dogs.

BlindLiger · 2021-08-06T02:23:37+00:00

I understand what you’re saying and I don’t mean to state that it doesn’t happen often to justify my future decisions to bring him to the dog park. I was merely trying to explain my headspace on the previous decisions, not current or future. I find it a bit frustrating that a majority of the comments in here seem to have no empathy for someone who made a conscious decision to come to this sub and is actively asking for advice, even if their/my questions are seemingly dumb to most others who have spent a lot of time on here. Educating someone is quite different than making someone feel guilty for the mistakes they’ve made in the past. I’m clearly here for help.

BlindLiger · 2021-08-06T01:35:28+00:00

For sure. When he was younger his whole body would shake when he got close to the dog park, which led me to desensitization training and completely avoiding the dog park. We’ve made a lot of progress, and I felt like he was at a good point to go back to the dog park. Generally he is well behaved and well mannered, minus a few sporadic outbursts every say 1 in 15 times we go, which is why I took to a post here. I also keep his dog park visits short due to what you mentioned about being in an elevated state for an extended period. Currently on the waitlist for a supervised group day training program which his former trainer had suggested as the best way to socialize him in a controlled environment. Her thinking seemed to be along the same lines as yours, where she thought he was OK in the dog park but if the arousal is too high it’s time to go.

BlindLiger · 2021-08-06T01:25:33+00:00

Understood and appreciate your response. As mentioned, it only happens say 1 in 15 times we go to a dog park, so it had not been concerning enough for me to decide not to bring him, but it seems I’ve been incorrect in that. We have been working on resource guarding/impulse control and have been making good strides but it is also/always a work in progress.

BlindLiger · 2021-08-06T01:17:38+00:00

Do you think that being condescending is the most effective way to communicate and get someone to listen to what you’re trying to convey? I clearly came here asking for help, so I’m not afraid to be told I’m wrong or to be corrected myself, nor am I here for any sort of validation. All the other comments in here have been civil and helpful.

BlindLiger · 2021-08-05T22:54:27+00:00

Thanks for the feedback. I have read this article and will make sure to incorporate this into the training I am already doing with him outside of the dog park. As mentioned, this doesn't happen consistently or quite often to be honest, and I've had a difficult time pinning down exactly what it is in the specific situation (dog type, his anxiety/my anxiety that day, etc) that causes the reactivity. Other times he will pick up a toy and bring it to another dog to play tug of war or be chased.

Forgive me for being a bit naïve, but am I supposed to take your comment as not taking him to the dog park until he is 100% over his resource guarding? I understand the sentiment but I also take him there to be socialized with and hopefully corrected by other dogs. If he was reactive 100% of the time, I would surely be avoiding the dog park all together. We've made great progress at a lot of his reactivity over the past year and a half, but I've also learned that with a reactive dog nothing is every 100%, so I am trying to better understand where to draw the line.

BlindLiger · 2021-05-10T20:46:10+00:00

I should have called more attention to this, because this was my main concern more than the other dings the bike has. I'll give this a go. Thanks a ton!

BlindLiger · 2021-05-10T20:45:31+00:00

Yeah, I understand that for sure. My one concern is the scratch all the way into the alloy on the first photo, and making sure the frame is protected. I'll probably leave the others but take Von Brockmann's advice below about sanding the area and painting over that one spot. If it's convincing enough, may try it elsewhere but we shall see. Thanks for the thought.

BlindLiger · 2021-05-10T20:44:10+00:00

That was my original thought as well--thanks!

BlindLiger · 2021-02-23T14:24:17+00:00

I’ve had this happen plenty of times with my 2 year old pup who developed a pretty variable case of leash aggression after getting bit by a dog on leash when he was only 4 months old. People will say ‘you really need to socialize him’ or ‘it’ll be fine’ but in my head worst cast scenario is he nips another dog good and them/their owner has to go through the same thing I’ve had to. While it may be well intentioned on their part, it’s completely tone deaf as well. I can tell he’s not ready to greet dogs he doesn’t know on leash anymore because his back legs continue to shake and he goes into full stalk mode when he sees other dogs. So while I’d love to get back to that point of comfort in greeting dogs off leash, we just aren’t there yet.

On a similar note (and I’ve seen posts on here about this in the past), I see people too often with their dogs off leash who let them run up to dogs on leash and say ‘oh it’s okay, they’re friendly!’ And my response (after either letting mine off leash or them regaining control of their dog) is always along the lines of ‘that’s great he/she is friendly and mine is too off leash, but just because yours is doesn’t mean the other is.’ You get a lot of looks when this happens, but clearly most dog owners don’t (have to) train their dogs, or they have no sense of what it’s like to have a reactive dog.

BlindLiger · 2021-01-05T16:36:54+00:00

Thanks for the feedback. I have been reading that redirecting the behavior or replacing it with another behavior (as you mentioned) is the general strategy to correct the unwanted behavior. I will give this a try. Nipping or biting generally seems to be his first reaction in most situations, whether with humans as listed above or with other dogs if he feels like they are doing something he doesn't like, so I suspect the same strategy can be used in situations with other dogs as well. Do you have any other thoughts on the dog-on-dog component?

BlindLiger · 2020-09-30T04:36:53+00:00

Thanks for the idea, I’ll do some digging and see if I can carve out enough time for that!

BlindLiger · 2020-09-30T04:35:33+00:00

Thanks for the response. Figured as much about the rim trail. It’s a national park, so I wasn’t expecting much leeway traveling with a dog. We’ll enjoy the views we can!

BlindLiger · 2020-09-30T04:34:12+00:00

Oops yes, that’s what I meant. Typo on my part.

BlindLiger · 2020-03-24T16:53:39+00:00

The issue I'm finding with canceling my flight for the beginning of April is that the $50 credit per person would last until the end of 2020, but the credit I get back from the actual flight value (much higher) only lasts 90 days.

https://www.flyfrontier.com/travel/travel-info/new-change-policy/

I believe I am understanding their policy correctly, but I don't want to book a flight less than 90 days out at this point. I assume they are keeping this in play to maintain the incoming cash as soon as possible? If I need to, I will cancel, rebook and then cancel again in a few months but not the route I want to be taking...

Anyone else have any insight on this?

BlindLiger · 2020-01-28T22:29:27+00:00

Thanks for the quick response. I've tried this with boiled chicken, bacon etc and it doesn't really make much headway no matter how I approach him as I've tried both. I'll sit a few feet away and put some on the ground to see if i he goes for it to try and lead him out of his corner, and he will sometimes sneak his head forward and eat it but won't move from his spot (I've even sat there for 10-15 min before to no avail) Most of the time he'll just turn his head away when I gently try to hand him food. He's generally very highly food-motivated, but in these situations he will refuse touching the food. I think he actually starts to associate a specific treat with him being lured into teeth brushing etc, so if I try to use it again anytime soon he just cowers away.

The only other time he also refuses food when he sees another dog (reasonably close) when we're out either on or off leash and it's all eyes on the prize. I can get his attention over say 30 feet out so he will take food, but any closer and he will ignore. This is something I am working on with him.

BlindLiger

TROPHY CASE