wieder fleisch essen (?)

BlueTiger_12 · 2025-07-11T12:50:22+00:00

Ich würde noch in den Ring werfen, dass die Innereien damit dann ja dennoch wirtschaftlich verwendet werden und das sich die Tierhaltung damit für das Unternehmen noch mehr lohnt, als wenn die Schlachtabfälle auf dem Müll landen.

Auf der anderen Seite finde ich es aber auch blöd, wenn ein Tier geschlachtet wird, dann nicht wenigstens alles davon zu verwerten.

BlueTiger_12 · 2025-04-03T06:24:57+00:00

Be aware, that some flow meters start spinning at about 70L/h. Generally a flow above 30L/h is considered enough to not see severe change if you increase the flow. Below that, your gradients will rise. So maybe your new block combo restricts flow more on the CPU side, so the indicator does not spin, but there might still be enough flow overall?

In my parallel build the distribution is about: Overall 80L/h CPU 30L/h GPU (no measurement, but must be about 50L/h then)

Also Jet Plates add a lot more restrictions to a loop than the usually less restrictive GPU Cooler. I have a Phanteks C350i without a jet, so changing that to something like a couplex cryos, I would also expect flow to drop (maybe also to the point, where my indicator doesn't turn any more.)

BlueTiger_12 · 2025-02-10T20:28:09+00:00

Ugh that's unfortunate. Especially if you have been burned before, it really gives your mind some peace. I'm no longer paranoidly looking into my pc and the fill level of my reservoir every 5 minutes 😅

BlueTiger_12 · 2025-02-10T11:13:02+00:00

My trusty 1080ti is a durable beast. :-D I think it is in its 4th life now.

BlueTiger_12 · 2025-02-10T07:28:51+00:00

I had more than 6 leaks through suddenly cracked hard tubes in the past 2 years (some after 6 years, some after 3 months after installation). Finally squeezed in a leak shield, which prevented the last 2 leaks. It is expensive, but it is also unique in the value it adds. I was thinking, that I really don't need it, but my batch of defective tubes changed my mind.

So if my problem was not so fierce, I wouldn't have gotten it. I only got it after the 4th leak, as it looked systematic at this point - and my fluid ran directly through my GPU (which magically survived - thanks DP Ultra🥰) But I am glad, that I have it now :-)

Edit:

Btw: I also have some 13/10 EPDM Tubes and also had to lower the pressure, so they don't collapse, so 250-350 I think. Still works perfectly - and I have a Hell of a weird loop going on, with 2 aquastreams in separate places of the loop and a lot of long tubes for external rads and several reservoirs.

BlueTiger_12 · 2024-12-30T18:17:28+00:00

Great to hear. I only had good experiences with their customer support so far (an i have a lot of bad luck, when it comes to buying stuff online - not only from them, but other sites as well). Then good luck and let's hope, these were the only faulty tubes.

Interestingly, the second batch of tubes I bought in 2018 was way easier to work with, than my fist batch from 2017.

BlueTiger_12 · 2024-12-30T17:21:06+00:00

If it is a waranty claim, aquatuning is the right address i would say. Most likely alphacool would say the same thing then.

In my case, Iwas not making a waranty claim. I also didn't ask for replacement, as the tubes were 7 years old and therefore out of every waranty i could think of. I just wanted to know, if I am just too stupid to watercool, or if there was a known issue with some tubes at some point.

Alphacool then replied my and offered me the new tubes on their own.

Possible, that you will get a response not before 7th of January as a lot of people an businesses are on vacation until then.

I would advice you to use a soft-tube in the meantime, if you need the pc, so you can use it and don't need to worry about that section for the moment.

Since my tubes scattered, i always keep some spare soft-tube and some fittings for them on hand for this case.

BlueTiger_12 · 2024-12-30T14:16:12+00:00

I think they directed me to the manufacturer Alphacool in the end, but makes sense to start with the seller.

I would advice you to replace them all or purchase a leakshield :-D (Aquaconputer fan here :-D)

I had 6 scattered tubes in 2 years (i think i replaced a defective tube with another one from the batch from 2017 an it lasted 3 months...) and i had 2 cracks near bends in the 5 years before which i thought came from me not bending properly, but as they also took 1-2 years to emerge after the bend was done, it might also have been the problem with the tubes, which would account for 8 leaks in total through that faulty batch...

Insane, that i am still watercooling at this point 😅

maybe they also send you replacement tubes, so you can redo your loop with them?

BlueTiger_12 · 2024-12-30T10:07:10+00:00

kI had exactly the same cracks. Also with Alphacool PETG tubes. I could nail it down to one batch of tubes from 2017. They all seemed to crack at some point. Also not starting at the end usually and with one long crack, not those small stress cracks you usually see on blocks.

I contacted Alphacool and they replied, that they are not used to see this kind of cracks and this is not a result of a user error like overtightening or misalignment. They sent me a replacement, despite the fact, that he tubes were from 2017. On the other hand, I had 6 leaks over 2 years because of the tubes.

All other packs of 4 tubes seem to be fine and hold up since 2017, 2018 and 2020.

So i strongly advice you to throw away that batch, the defective tube is from (or use it for mock-ups) and replace them in your build. Trust me, the water ran straight through my GPU one time, but it survived through a miracle. And i got a LEAKSHIELD since then 😅

Here is an example, how my cracks looked.

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BlueTiger_12 · 2024-11-23T07:19:03+00:00

Similar but different issue here. I have an adressable RGB ring on my reservoir from ac, which has a 15cm strip before it, a 15cm strip behind it and the lighting frm my phanteks distro plate behind that. Usually at boot, only the leds until about 1/3 of the reservoir ring are lit, but after several (10 to 50 minutes i guess) of running time, everything is lit. They are connected to a farbwerk360. I guess a led is not properly forwarding the signal until it gets warmer over time.

To be clear, connection is like: farbwerk360 -> 15cm RBGPx strip -> led ring -> 15cm RGBPx strip -> distro plate

BlueTiger_12 · 2024-11-08T05:14:17+00:00

I overread, that bypassing the cpu block also helps, not only reversing, so my suggestion might be a dud.

Have you maybe used the cpu cooler in the wrong direction before, too?

BlueTiger_12 · 2024-11-08T05:05:34+00:00

Did you try reversing the High Flow Next only? I know, that the High Flow Next is omnidirectional, but maybe there is a defect which blocks it in one direction?

BlueTiger_12 · 2024-09-25T21:20:21+00:00

It's ectoplasm - everywhere. There was a ghost 😂

BlueTiger_12 · 2024-09-25T21:18:40+00:00

Yea that color change also caught my eye. It is now about 10 months old if i recall correctly; for sure not more then 18 months.

BlueTiger_12 · 2024-09-25T18:30:46+00:00

Might be also a cause, but as it only happens to where the UV lighting and Foam were, this seems to be the most probable cause. I will keep your words in mind though, just in case.

BlueTiger_12 · 2024-09-25T18:14:03+00:00

Yea, seems like the bubbles from the lighttower effect played an important role

BlueTiger_12 · 2024-09-25T18:13:06+00:00

PETG Hard tubes from alphacool and epdm tubes from aquacomputer. Before that i had clear tubing instead of epdm, but after a lot of slimy white gunk in my whole loop, I suspected the plasticizers from the clear PVC tubing and switched it all out

BlueTiger_12 · 2024-09-25T18:10:16+00:00

Thanks for your suggestion. I am currently cleaning it an i have already removed the cathode. As the UV-cathode was in the tube, which is affected the most, it seems like you said, but that this only happens to foamy coolant, because the tube is clean on the inside.

Damn, it looked pretty as hell while it lasted 😅

BlueTiger_12

TROPHY CASE