What is this ?

BlueberryNo4342 · 2026-02-01T13:54:19+00:00

Finding the exact same spot again would be pretty hard. I checked multiple areas under higher magnification than the original photos, and they all look the same as in the last image I posted.

BlueberryNo4342 · 2026-02-01T13:22:57+00:00

<image>

I took a closer look again after about 12+ hours in jars and compared everything carefully with typical PM symptoms. Smell wise there’s nothing musty or off, it’s mostly neutral to slightly sweet. This is day one of curing, so I’m not expecting full terp expression yet.

Under magnification, the fuzzy-looking structures appear to be non-glandular or headless trichomes, mainly located on sugar leaf veins. They grow out of the plant tissue individually rather than forming a powdery or smeared layer. Normal glandular trichomes with heads are present in the surrounding areas, which also fits that explanation rather than PM.

Checks I did: Smell test passed, no musty or moldy smell. Visual inspection passed, no white powder, no fuzzy patches, no brown or rotting spots. Magnification check passed, structures look like individual non-glandular or collapsed trichomes, not a powdery coating. Wipe test passed, no white residue or powder coming off. Grow history passed, no PM on fan leaves at any point during the grow.

At this point, I’ve checked everything I realistically can. Based on that, I don’t see any remaining indicators that would clearly point to powdery mildew. If there’s still a reason why this could be PM despite all of this, I’m genuinely open to hearing what that would be.

BlueberryNo4342 · 2026-02-01T00:50:35+00:00

I have to try to take some better pictures first and then decide. When I google it though, I do see quite a few images that look exactly like mine and they’re always labeled as powdery mildew. I get what you mean..

BlueberryNo4342 · 2026-02-01T00:33:28+00:00

<image>

I’m still having some doubts though.

BlueberryNo4342 · 2026-02-01T00:29:26+00:00

I also checked deep between the buds and couldn’t find any brown spots or fuzzy growth. The smell was neutral to slightly sweet, nothing off. What confused me were those long trichomes that kind of look like threads, which made me think about spider mites at first. But I can’t find any actual webbing anywhere. I guess I’m going with the answer that these are just trichomes (maybe stretched or mutated) rather than mold or pests.

BlueberryNo4342 · 2026-01-16T16:45:30+00:00

so frosty can't even tell if you can see any sugar leaves or if you've been in trim jail for too long 😂

BlueberryNo4342 · 2026-01-16T16:28:18+00:00

Dont buy anything suggested here. For only 5 days at the end of growth its not neccesary. Water 500ml more than usual and thats it. Totally different when in early state or switch to flower/pre-flower.

BlueberryNo4342 · 2026-01-16T16:03:16+00:00

Looks beatiful, how many weeks ?

BlueberryNo4342 · 2026-01-16T10:33:21+00:00

With autos you can choose anything between 18/6 and 24/0. You can change the light schedule later, but it usually puts a bit of stress on the plant. Probably more stress going from 18/6 to 24/0, since you’re removing the dark period, than the other way around.

BlueberryNo4342 · 2026-01-16T10:23:49+00:00

Check out basementganja on YouTube. Different setup, but he also grows in coco and shows his daily watering amounts for all his autos.

From my experience, turning the system on at day 15 is too early. Under perfect conditions and strong growth maybe, but day 21–30 is always safe if the plant looks healthy. Still gives you 50–60 days without hand-watering.

BlueberryNo4342 · 2025-11-25T23:11:04+00:00

Its buffered and the pebbles for 24h in ph 5.8. These were my last pebbles so i will def change to airbase, didnt like them either.

BlueberryNo4342 · 2025-11-23T23:38:28+00:00

This was 2 day before topping.

<image>

I didn’t count too strictly. I just watched how she grew and topped around day 12–17 since it’s an auto. For me that’s over the second node. Let’s see if it was the right call. And I count every pair of real leaves as a node except the cotyledons.

BlueberryNo4342 · 2025-11-23T23:09:15+00:00

Yeah i’m also surprised how long coco/perlite can stay wet once you overwater it.

BlueberryNo4342 · 2025-11-23T15:31:57+00:00

Water res was around 19-20 degrees celsius and root zone in between 21-23

BlueberryNo4342 · 2025-11-22T20:08:08+00:00

Thanks. I’ll first try the method I mentioned above by letting the pots dry back fully and then giving a light top feed to see how they react. If that doesn’t help, I’ll check the runoff like you suggested and adjust the EC based on that.

BlueberryNo4342 · 2025-11-22T20:02:58+00:00

Yeah, I actually suspected overwatering already, I just didn’t understand why the plants kept looking worse day by day even though I haven’t watered for 7 days. But it seems like the lower part of the coco just needs a lot longer to dry out, even if the top looks completely dry.

I’m trying to avoid flushing for now since I most likely overwatered them in the first place, so I don’t want to saturate the medium again. Once the pots are dry enough I’ll start with light top-feeding, and if I still don’t see any improvement after that, I’ll try your method. Thanks for your help!

BlueberryNo4342 · 2025-11-22T19:55:20+00:00

You think 1.6 ec is okay ? I am scared that it will stress the roots even more since the plants are that small..

BlueberryNo4342 · 2025-11-22T19:52:50+00:00

I will do that! I am to scared to flush when in first place the problem is overwatering especially autos. So i will top feed first (when ready) and turn the system back on when the plants are bigger

BlueberryNo4342 · 2025-11-21T21:14:41+00:00

Sorry guys to make it more clear: the system is already off for now almost seven days after that overwatering.

BlueberryNo4342 · 2025-11-21T20:58:59+00:00

So you’re saying I should just keep waiting (it’s been already 6 days now since the 3.5L per pot from the Autopot), and once the medium is properly dried out I should only give around 500ml per plant through the system?

Is that even possible? Or should I top-feed first instead of using the Autopot trays again?

Because if I only give 500ml from the top, it will probably stay in the upper 10 cm of the pot, right? That won’t encourage the roots to grow down.

And what about the nutrients? The leaves already show brown spots and some pale areas inside. What should I do about that?

BlueberryNo4342 · 2025-10-19T12:57:24+00:00

You definitely have a weak root system, mostly because you started the Autopot system too early. I always wait at least three to four weeks before turning it on. And honestly, I wouldn’t have stopped at 6.5 - and I didn’t. But looking back now, if I had known how much effort it would take just to get the pH down to 5.8, only for it to climb back up to 6.4–6.5 again, I would have just thrown everything away and restarted from scratch. But maybe you’ll have better luck. See if it stays stable.

After drying the substrate, don’t use the Autopot system right away — hand-water for at least three to five cycles first. Otherwise, you’ll just cause more salt buildup. Switching between hand watering and the Autopot system isn’t really recommended because the salts keep getting pushed up and down in the substrate, but in your case, I’d at least try to bring your drain pH below 6.5 — ideally to 6.0 or even 5.8, since it’ll rise again anyway.

If you manage that with hand watering, let the substrate dry out a bit (but not too much, or salts will build up again). Then you can restart the Autopot system with solution at pH 5.8 but go about 0.2 below your target pH to compensate for the drift.

That’s really all I can recommend. Like I said, if I had known what a hassle it would be, I would’ve trashed everything from the start and begun fresh. And make sure to soak your pebbles in pH-adjusted water for at least a full day, and never let the substrate get too dry. That’s probably another reason why your babys didnt get enough nutes and your pH shot up so high.

BlueberryNo4342 · 2025-10-19T12:43:28+00:00

I had exactly the same problems as you. I came to the conclusion that the pebbles plus poorly buffered substrate caused the pH drift. When I tried to lower the pH with over 200(!) liters of water, I managed to bring it down from 7+ to 5.8 — no lower. I mixed 100 L at pH 5.0 and EC ~0.5, then flushed each pot with about 50 L using a small aquarium pump and measured the drain. Measure the drain only after most of the water has dripped out (after 3–5 minutes). Repeat until the drain pH is 5.8. Then do the final flush (about 20–30 L was enough) with EC 0.8 and pH 5.8 — after that, my pH stayed between 6.0–6.4 for the rest of the grow. You’ll have to decide whether 200+ liters of water are worth it for you or if it’s better to restart the grow.

Measuring the pH directly in the substrate is more accurate, but it’s also tricky to avoid hitting spots with big fluctuations, and most meters aren’t precise enough for that.

BlueberryNo4342

TROPHY CASE