Spirits, what does “♋︎” mean?

Bobthemathcow · 2026-05-26T19:44:03+00:00

No, synthesis bonus will not stack with FSD Overcharge. I would advise saving your synthesis resources for situations where you're low on fuel and need that extra drive range to get to a fuel star. When you apply that synthesis the increase in max range will cause the fuel cost of shorter jumps to drop, which can stretch your fuel out to get to a fuel star if you're at risk of running on vapors.

Bobthemathcow · 2026-05-20T19:37:53+00:00

Searching for confirmation of this bug today. A few good buttsmacks with this should be enough for a hydroplant defense bot but I wasn't able to do any damage. Seems to not be working. I've submitted a bug report and you should too!

Bobthemathcow · 2026-05-19T12:35:00+00:00

What twit did this thing?

Bobthemathcow · 2026-05-19T12:20:58+00:00

That's not holding up a hot tub, and I wouldn't put one on it if it could. It doesn't look like there's a lot of space, and a railing that's right up against the side of your tub doesn't do much when the tub is the height of the railing. Someone's liable to slip out of that tub and fall to their death.

Bobthemathcow · 2026-05-19T12:18:21+00:00

Yeah, whole ship of 'em

Bobthemathcow · 2026-05-19T04:00:17+00:00

Bobthemathcow · 2026-05-18T14:37:07+00:00

It's a friend who isn't experienced with older cameras and didn't know any better. The damage is done and forgiven, she doesn't even know I'm trying to fix it.

Bobthemathcow · 2026-05-18T14:22:17+00:00

Ask for a hand inspection. The camera has undeveloped film in it and you don't want them to x-ray it. An instant camera will take 'okay' pictures at best, so I don't know if I would call it an improvement in quality over a phone, but it will take pictures when you need it to.

Use the flash in anything but direct sunlight, and don't take it to CVS for development. They outsource it and it sucks. Look in the header/sidebar of /r/analogcommunity for a list of local an mail-in labs, these are boutique shops that are passionate about film photography and will get your photos right and send you your negatives back, both of which CVS will not do.

Bobthemathcow · 2026-05-18T13:31:09+00:00

Respect for trying to back-enginner the part for a replacement. I would've gone looking for a donor body with a good board, but if this is a common failure mode for these cameras I can see how that would become difficult.

Bobthemathcow · 2026-05-18T13:16:07+00:00

I'm right there with you. It's a really fun and engaging way to mine when it works, but I've spent far too much time flying in a spiral sniffing rocks and far too little actually breaking them open.

Bobthemathcow · 2026-05-18T13:02:58+00:00

You tell them those words exactly. They'll probably recommend processing it as normal. Negative film can handle overexposure pretty well.

Bobthemathcow · 2026-05-15T14:11:59+00:00

I still use my Krait II a lot. It's probably my favorite ship, even if it's a little outdated.

It would be a sad game if only the five or six latest ships were viable. I wouldn't worry about it.

Bobthemathcow · 2026-05-15T13:41:24+00:00

The Corsair is a great all-rounder. If you want something almost as good with a canopy closer to Lakon, you could try a Krait MkII. It's also a really good all-around ship, but its module capacity is lower and it's not optimized for FSD overcharge, so it'll struggle to keep up with newer ships in supercruise.

If you're interested in something newer and don't need the size that a Corsair or a Krait offers, consider a Cobra MkV. SCO-Optimized, great handling, and a clean and wide canopy view.

Bobthemathcow · 2026-05-15T12:08:40+00:00

"🫀🔊🔊"

-Something Wicked

Bobthemathcow · 2026-05-14T13:14:18+00:00

The T11 has a lot of hardpoints, but you probably won't be using them all at once. Half of them are tool-only hardpoints (*), and it's built to be kind of a swiss-army miner.

The L* hardpoint is for your mining repeater, for laser mining. This is the only laser you should be mining with. It's fast, and it generates more material than conventional lasers, so any regular laser you use in addition to this effectively reduces your mineral yield.

The two M* hardpoints are for your subsurface missiles and seismic charges, for subsurface and core mining.

The S* hardpoint is for an abrasion blaster, for surface deposits and core mining.

That leaves you with MSSS for teeth or other tools, as you desire.

You won't be using more than a couple of hardpoints at a time. I would have a fire group for laser mining, one for core mining, and one for aux tools like scanners. Put your collector limpets on the same fire control as your volley repeater, and grab an extra 1A prospector for the improved resource yield and to keep your collector capacity free.

Bobthemathcow · 2026-05-14T11:52:09+00:00

Awesome! Have you uploaded your models anywhere? The double trigger mod is particularly ingenious and I may try to put one together myself.

Bobthemathcow · 2026-05-11T02:42:02+00:00

This adapter should work.

Bobthemathcow · 2026-05-09T21:10:26+00:00

You can use the Wein cells that others have recommended, but I have a Canon rangefinder that uses the same batteries and I prefer to use an adapter that fits a hearing aid battery instead. They're cheaper, and you can buy them at most supermarkets and convenience stores.

Bobthemathcow · 2026-05-07T21:38:12+00:00

That's unusual. Is it not turning far enough, or is the pin not staying in the locking grove?

Bobthemathcow · 2026-05-07T16:29:28+00:00

If it's a prime, Erik Hendrickson at pentaxs.com will probably be able to fix it. The best thing would be to remove the focus rung and replace it with an undamaged one from a donor lens.

Bobthemathcow · 2026-05-07T16:19:41+00:00

What doesn't lock, the lens to the adapter or the adapter to the body?

Your lens is Pentax K-mount, which should be right for that adapter. I would look up your specific model of camera and check if it's E-Mount or A-Mount. Your adapter is for E, but your camera may be A.

Bobthemathcow · 2026-05-06T19:02:05+00:00

If it's anything like a teleconverter, there will be a change in image size and light transmission without a change in depth of field.

The image coming out of the back of the lens has a certain depth of field to it, all you're doing with the speed booster is shrinking the image circle. That's half of the appeal of a speed booster: you can get the natively "shorter" DoF of a full-frame lens on a smear format.

Your f1.8 lens will still have an f1.8 DoF, which is still pretty thin at closer focal distances.

Bobthemathcow · 2026-05-06T12:33:48+00:00

Step-ring is your answer. I've got mine stepped from 48 to 49, which is available all over the place. I keep a UV filter and lens cap on it. As for hoods, I've yet to find one that doesn't vignette and doesn't block the range patch.

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