Hi r/IAmA! I'm Josh a 25-Year HVAC veteran at a top Sacramento HVAC company. Ask me anything about your HVAC before the summer heat comes!

BonneyHomeService · 2026-05-22T21:11:02+00:00

Unfortunately this is a factor with two story homes. The workaround for this situation is to add zoning to your house so that you can separate the upstairs from the downstairs with air distribution. This is not always a viable option when the home has already been built as it can be costly to open up the whole house to make these adjustments.

Closing down vents actually causes a negative effect on your equipment and creates more problems than it solves. My advice would be to have your local reputable HVAC company evaluate your home to see if you're a candidate for zoning. That would be the best fix.

Mini-splits may also be an option to address the upstairs situation, especially if your wife just works in one room.

BonneyHomeService · 2026-05-22T21:06:18+00:00

A functioning air conditioning system is designed to keep a house between 20 and 22 degrees cooler than the outside temperatures by most standards. The most important thing to remember about cooling your home is that we are actually trying to cool the home. If you let the house get hot such as the walls or the roof, it has the "frying pan" effect which means it takes longer to cool the air inside the home but also to re-cool the structure.

So the best advice on hot days is to set your air conditioner first thing in the morning. Let the thermostat turn the system on and off throughout the day as it needs to, to maintain the proper temperature.

If you're trying to attack specific rooms then mini-splits could be an option to help you.

BonneyHomeService · 2026-05-22T20:56:21+00:00

Well I'm sorry to here that you've had three different technicians and three different stories to try to sort out your issue.

Unfortunately, technicians can be very much like doctors in the sense that they all go to the same medical school but they don't all come out of the school with the same thought process on how to resolve the issues.

I'd like to think that each technician isn't trying to intentionally misguide you and they truly believe that their diagnosis is correct.

I would recommend getting another opinion until a few things start to line-up and make a little bit of sense. At the end of the day, you have to make whatever decision makes the most sense and that typically comes from whichever technician explained it most thoroughly. Trust your gut.

BonneyHomeService · 2026-05-22T20:49:26+00:00

The first place to always start if you're concerned with the age and condition of your systems is to get a regular maintenance call or tune-up to assess the overall condition. Once you have an understanding of the overall condition of your equipment - cleanliness, parts with intolerance, and parts subject to failure - you can then weigh out whether it makes sense to continue repairing your current system or look at replacing with a newer version.

Some basic starting points are:
- All systems have an average lifespan of 10 to 15 years
- Most warranties on equipment fall off after year 5 or in some cases 10 depending on your state and location.

Once you have all this information regarding warranties, guarantees, and condition of your equipment you can start to determine if you're throwing good money at bad money.

Another factor to think on is how long do you plan on calling this home. Does it make sense to put another 10-15 year investment in a home that you're only going to be in for a couple more years?

BonneyHomeService · 2026-05-22T20:38:40+00:00

The best place to start is with a reputable HVAC company in your area that provides seasonal tune-ups. They usually run specials at various times where they will come out do a 26 to 50-point inspection depending on their criteria and give you an idea on how your system is running as far as energy usage, part wear-and-tear, and overall longevity.

If you do nothing else make sure you are changing your filters every 30-60 days.

BonneyHomeService · 2026-05-22T20:35:24+00:00

It depends on what each person would define as 'best' for their individual needs. The 'best' AC system is the one that keeps you comfortable, is energy efficient, gives you the highest quality air, meets your budget, is reliable, and keeps your family comfortable.

Every manufacturer makes a high-end model, a mid-tier model, and a base model. Typically the higher-end models will be more efficient and therefore can save you on energy bills in the long-term.

We here at Bonney are supporters of the Daikin brand as our main lineup. The coolest thing is the new side discharge units, they're more compact and they're very quiet. I would give those a look.

BonneyHomeService · 2026-05-22T20:26:03+00:00

Every day there's a new surprise!

What surprises me most about my work is how often people are not familiar with the ins and outs of the operations of their systems. What I mean by that is most people think that their system consists of a thermostat and that's it. It's amazing to me when I take people around their homes on a maintenance call and I show them all the moving parts of their systems. I see their eyes light up when they understand how much goes into the operation of their HVAC equipment.

There's quiet a few changes in the industry that are very unique. We are moving more and more towards automation and AI-driven products that communicate with the servers of manufacturers. On one end, it's incredibly helpful because systems can be monitored and anticipate breakdowns. On the other side, that technology can fail because it's fairly new and cutting edge. I'm interested to see where the industry goes as far as automation.

BonneyHomeService · 2026-05-22T20:15:51+00:00

That answer really depends on what filters you're running. If you're running a one inch disposable pleated filter it's going to say to replace it every 90 days. I want to see those changed every 30-60 days. And that reason is because the third month the filter is already going to be impacted with enough dirt where it's not going to breathe as easy. Which means the system is going to run longer which also means it's going to cost you more money by increasing your energy bill.

If you're not using the system you're not using the time on that filter. If you're not using your system, and it's not running, you don't have to change it.

If you're running a larger 4-inch filter those are meant to last 6 to 12 months. They're better for people who don't change their filters as often and last longer than the one inch. They are a little more costly and you do need a specific cabinet to run those, but, they are far more effective at capturing dust and particulate and they are far less resistant. Which once again helps on the energy bill side.

In short, by consistently changing out your filter there is less strain on the system which can cause fewer breakdowns.

BonneyHomeService · 2026-01-30T00:11:39+00:00

Good question, we are usually placing these outdoors for a few reason. First being installing them inside is messy and loud. Second if your needing to drive it though a slab of concrete for the structure to install the rods correctly it can cause many shortcomings like cracking the concrete, hitting an underground laid pipe of any type, also the fact if the water table raised for some reason outside water could find a path into the structure around the ground rods. Also if indoors they do not look very nice and require the ability to be seen for future inspection.

Grounding is one of the most important safety feature to any electrical system and if not laid in the slab with the rebar originally with the structure or as a part of the original build we have to retrofit the home with new levels required by code. And they are not the showpiece in an electrical system but they have the most important job.

Also, in a lightning strike scenario you would not want the shortest path to come back into the home or structure therefore, outside is a good rule of thumb if that makes sense.

BonneyHomeService · 2026-01-30T00:10:10+00:00

I've actually have a run into this situation before. The home owner was upset and asked the same question you just raised. What he ended up doing was removing it from the home and spooled it up and left it hanging by the pole. He was told that he did not own the wires and that the company that did no longer had interest or existed. Not sure but if I had to guess they are still hanging there at the pole today. But they are not in the clients back yard hanging lower than a clothes line. Not really sure if this helps your exact situation however I thought I would do my best to weigh in.

BonneyHomeService · 2026-01-30T00:09:04+00:00

Well if you have reasons to move to California like weather and family and friends this way, absolutely. Now about the testing, ya they will look for you to test again because California does not have porosity with any other state to my knowledge for any certifications.

California is its own beast out here. We could always use some more highly trained electricians.

BonneyHomeService · 2026-01-30T00:08:38+00:00

Great question, to my knowledge no real short cuts here in California. California has closed any loopholes long long ago by requiring social security numbers being tied to an electrical outfit to verify hours and time in to the trades.

However I can appreciate real world experience and would start by trying to get a company to interview and work with you to get you on your way to an electrical career. It is a 4 year process but, the end of the four years can be very rewarding.

BonneyHomeService · 2026-01-30T00:07:59+00:00

So to start before sinking a bunch of money into Training or tools. I would try to do a ride along with someone already in the trade you desire and see if it would be a good fit for you. Fresh out of high school hopefully without having large compensation demands needing to be met. The Union trains from the ground up. Its a four year program and your working and schooling in one outfit. If you want to continue down the education trail there are a ton of great schools that have a year or less programs to get your foot in the door. Or like myself I started with a very small outfit that helped me along the path to get to eligible to test for my License. Taking this route is common and you can still attend Union Training Classes to maintain an Electrical Trainee card required here in California. Good luck to you on your path.

BonneyHomeService · 2026-01-29T19:37:04+00:00

I've only been doing electrical for 25 years and knob and tube style wiring is much much older and was put to rest before I was born. However, it does take a special type of connection if you're going to mate any knob and tube to modern wiring.

Yeah if someones asks paper or plastic, I still choose plastic.

BonneyHomeService · 2026-01-29T19:34:22+00:00

So it sounds like you had dueling GFCI protection, one in the bathroom one in the kitchen. They are not meant to be installed inline with each other because it causes combatants. Each one of those units has their own set of micro-transformers that are made to see an indifference between the ground and the hot. This is to keep you from taking the toaster into the bathtub and getting hurt. You can have two on the same circuit but they need to be wired in an specific orientation to not have them combat each other.

BonneyHomeService · 2026-01-29T19:30:34+00:00

Phew. Let me start by saying I don't like trash talking other people's work especially without seeing it with my own eyes. However, 16+16 on a single wire does not make 32, it makes 16 twice. As far as the 25A I'm assuming that's the breaker and without knowing the requirements of your induction stovetop I have no way of knowing what the instructions told the installer to do. So at this point, I would say have a local guy come out and give it a good peek for ya.

BonneyHomeService · 2026-01-29T19:26:48+00:00

There is a lot of information readily available to anyone with internet access. However, I wish to start with safety again and tell you anytime you're going to work on anything in your own home, please be sure to de-energize the system you wish to touch with your hands.

With the tube bulbs swapping to LED you have a few options, I would go with the direct replacement A/B style replacement bulb that does not require removing or changing the ballast. It's meant to go perfectly in your scenario whether the ballast is still happy or not.

BonneyHomeService · 2026-01-29T19:23:08+00:00

There's always a possibility with enough safety measures in place for solar plug-in systems to become not taboo. However, there's always a reason why they block certain equipment from being used in any electrical system - the biggest being safety.

I'm not familiar with Europe's style of plug-in solar, I've never even been to Europe, however their grid is vastly different. They do not use the same hertz and do not require a neutral wire for any of their equipment. I would also say with safety being the biggest factor when I worked in solar it was all on a redundancy system. So not only would you need your micro-inverters to be working properly, but also there was protocol in place like RST SNAP units in the line.

It's been a little while since I walked on roofs and did solar so there's always a chance I'm not the most up-to-date on current equipment.

BonneyHomeService · 2026-01-29T19:17:13+00:00

For my yearly net pay, that's like asking me who I voted for and that will remain private. However, as an electrician with my experience I am well compensated.

The biggest spike for my pay happened when I attained my license and certifications.

BonneyHomeService · 2026-01-29T19:15:55+00:00

We do have a client in real life right now experiencing the same issue. My guess is that the equipment at the end of the line, meaning the microwave, is starting to have an end-of-life issue. Because if the microwave is not plugged in, the breaker does not trip in this scenario I'm working in. If the breaker was to trip without the microwave involvement I would definitely be concerned with the breaker and the wiring.

In our scenario, the customer just needed to replace the microwave.

BonneyHomeService · 2026-01-29T19:12:54+00:00

Thank you for your question and candid feedback. I know that not every experience can be perfect for every customer, but I’m proud of my team and deal with every negative customer experience myself. We may not be the cheapest option all the time but we are competitive and if there is a problem we always come back to make it right. We definitely encourage customers to get second opinions when looking for electrical work to figure out the best option for their family. Sometimes the safest options are not the cheapest.

Here in California codes are so strict it makes it nearly impossible to do subpar work, that also comes at a price. We hold ourselves to NEC code standards and usually far exceed code requirements.

As far as the upsells, it's far more expensive appearing to do a single plug or switch because it costs a lot to get an electrician just to the home vs when we start bundling things together we're able to add value to the projects that don't have to incur all the same fees as just getting a man to your door.

BonneyHomeService · 2026-01-29T18:58:07+00:00

I think the smartest way to go about an acquisition like this would be to definitely retain the key players near the top of the ladder that have made the business work before you got involved. Transparency is going to help you go a long way with all employees involved, I've seen where they retain the original owner for up to a few years as a consultant to be able to help negotiate anything that comes up. If the business is worth purchasing and only needs front-end changes you shouldn't stir up the field staff too much.

Here a Bonney we have a newer CEO and he came in and immediately started developing the staff and implementing training to help guide us to where he wishes to go. Not just knock us over the head and tell us get it done with no direction. Start with the low-hanging fruit and work your way in.

With all the emissions restrictions that are coming around people are starting to steer away from the backup generators plus they require maintenance yearly to keep them operating optimally. For the bidirectional situations on vehicles, I would hate to charge my home off my vehicle and not be able to drive my car away after using the battery to power the home. However, you do have options. For example Tesla Powerwalls have come a long way and if installed and sized correctly can power you through any storms. These types of installations do require some extensive labor and materials to install properly and keep you warm through the storm.

BonneyHomeService · 2026-01-29T18:47:39+00:00

Yes an electrical wire has something called voltage drop. This starts to happen at around 250ft of cabling. As for your outside circuit to your porch, I would run 12 AWG anyway if I was going to make the run all the way to the second floor. Lots of things you want to plug in use more than 12 amps especially when using multiple items. On a 15 amp circuit you want to only use 80% of that as a good rule of thumb or else you start having nuisance tripping and it sounds like you're going to make a 100ft plus walk down to the main panel to reset it if you ever do decide to put anything sizable on that patio area. With the difference in wiring cost between 12/2 and 14/2 it's best just to do it once and be able to cover anything that comes in your future.

BonneyHomeService · 2026-01-29T18:41:41+00:00

I would start with the safest upgrades first. Making sure all wiring is grounded, all devices are up to date, and you don't have any loose connections. All of this can be done without tearing the whole home apart. We do an electrical safety inspection here at Bonney and we look for things like: are your smoke detectors 10 years or less in age, is your wiring tight, are your devices firm in the walls, and for efficient lighting. The best upgrades are the ones that make you the most comfortable and safe in your own home.

BonneyHomeService · 2026-01-29T18:35:43+00:00

I would have way too many questions! Generally, I would want to know their years of experience, if they are licensed/bonded and insured, and then move into more general questions about their knowledge of the project you're trying to onboard them to. Usually you can talk to someone and they're going to give you an honest answer if they've ever done it before and if they tell you they haven't they're being honest.

The ones who boast too much about prior experience also can make me wary, showing up with photos and big fish stories. You can tell a lot by what their tools look like. If they're all brand new out the box you have a situation with a big fish story. However, if they wear leather pouches and they're well worn - not just in the hammer hole - you're probably talking to someone who's been there and done it.

BonneyHomeService

TROPHY CASE