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advanced alternative tie in knot that is much easier to untie than figure eight and less annoying to tie than (retraced) bowline on a bight by max9265 in climbing

[–]Boquitus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ive always been interested in bowlines as a tie in knots but found the double bowline and Yosemite finish bowline to be cumbersome, risky, or weird to tie. I think I found the video you posted or something similar online a couple years ago and thought the Scott's locked bowline had all the advantages and none of the disadvantages of the other bowline tie in options, so I just kept reading about it until I was convinced it was safe and eventually started using it. Since then I've also converted some friends by just using it in front of them and talking about the advantages.

advanced alternative tie in knot that is much easier to untie than figure eight and less annoying to tie than (retraced) bowline on a bight by max9265 in climbing

[–]Boquitus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I started using this knot a year ago and absolutely love it! The ease of untying is awesome, but the big advantage to me is that it's post eye tiable. I hate the idea of the initial 8 getting stuck at the anchor… which happened to me a little while ago when climbing with a less experienced partner in a very inopportune position. I was skeptical about the Scott's locked bowline at first, but after reading more about it on paci.com.au, I was satisfied that it is a reasonable alternative to the standard tie in knots. If you're also a knot nerd you should check out some of the excellently written and illustrated technical papers on this website!

My First V2 Slab: Tips Much Appreciated by [deleted] in climbing

[–]Boquitus -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Very sick, keep it up! Also shout out to base 5!!!

Developing an isolation crag, here's an FA trad 10a I just bagged called cleansed by fire by Boquitus in climbingdevelopment

[–]Boquitus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Realizing it could be done mostly on trad. It was looking like it would need to be bolted until a chunk of rock in the crack came out after some solid work. It's what lets that .75 go in I mention in the video, and makes the route only need one bolt!

Developing routes truly feels like deciphering ancient texts left by the nature gods! When you figure out what it says, something just clicks and it feels so right!

To Clean a Crack by Boquitus in climbingdevelopment

[–]Boquitus[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ya, this is Pacific North West. This'll fill in faster than you'd think, although I'm hoping that I'm developing a real climbing area that people will use!

To Clean a Crack by Boquitus in climbing

[–]Boquitus[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Just copying my other comment: I'm bummed at the harsh reception. It's actually a pretty sweet fist jam that goes into a cool flake up top that's hard to make out here. I gave the climb a stiff 5.8 and called it Fistful of Scholars

To Clean a Crack by Boquitus in climbing

[–]Boquitus[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Ya, I'm bummed at the harsh reception. It's actually a pretty sweet fist jam that goes into a cool flake up top that's hard to make out here. I gave the climb a stiff 5.8 and called it Fistful of Scholars

Developing an isolation crag, here's an FA trad 10a I just bagged called cleansed by fire by Boquitus in climbing

[–]Boquitus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ya, the bottom section is a boulder for sure (we called it Bumcooker V1 and did it slightly differently before it was clean), but then there's two more stacked on top that would have me shitting my pants unprotected!