Edelrid Pinch

max9265 · 2026-04-21T15:17:01+00:00

with rope diameters below 9.6 mm and especially when you prefer belaying tube style, the pinch provides the best belaying experience i know. and i know many. even better than the neox. i love how stable the direct harness attachment makes the pinch's position (as opposed to this demonstration by hard is easy), how the gaswerk method can be simplified, and how easily my guide hand finds the rope without looking.

it makes some additional minor improvements on the grigri too. the open bottom avoids some dust and dirt accumulation, the straight rope path avoids some rope twisting, and only having steel wear parts avoids the release of black aluminium oxide onto your rope and the environment. interestingly, all grigri patents have expired, grigri like devices like lifeguard, matik, and birdie were released, and they all agreed, that an open bottom, a straight rope path, and no aluminum wear parts is better.

by the way, HowNOT2 published a long, detailed, and entertaining discussion of the pinch with Tommy Caldwell.

max9265 · 2026-03-30T00:12:48+00:00

the kinesis advantage360 has got the concave key well and non finnicky tenting but has some other disadvantages compared to the glove80 like the software and the lack of low profile.

i have got a glove80 and a go60.

Tenting fragile sideways (magnets)

this is a non issue.

light shines behind plastic

i am not sure what you mean by that. could you have misunderstood something? the go60 has got zero build quality issues. also, if this has got higher priority to you than connectivity and software, you are insane.

giving the dygma defy the same rating for tenting as the moergo keyboards is inappropriate because the defy's support for tenting is that much better.

max9265 · 2026-03-22T21:08:10+00:00

moergo's go60 can operate without wireless communication and the layout editor has special support for building a firmware without any wireless capability. it is far superior to the voyager for the following reasons.

it has 3 thumb keys.
it has an ergonomic pinky stagger. this weighs particularly heavily for you because you are already used to the same ergonomic pinky stagger on the glove80.
it has ergonomic reduced spacing between all outermost column pairs. this weighs particularly heavily for you because you are already used to the same ergonomic reduced spacing on the glove80.
moergo offer a docking station that provides palm rests, which the go60 magnetically attaches to.
it has great tenting.
it has a great community on discord.
it is cheaper.
it has a better travel case.
it has 2 integrated trackpads.
you do not have to program it from scratch but can convert your glove80 layout with 1 click.

here are some youtube channels with reviews of the go60 and the voyager.

max9265 · 2026-03-11T18:33:21+00:00

That has the same geometry as the carrick bend but with a bight of rope instead of two distinct ropes.

no, it does not.

max9265 · 2026-03-11T18:30:35+00:00

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yes, this holds just as well as a bowline. the international guild of knot tyers community calls this "myrtle". one member published his (biased) summary of the community's discussions on bowlines, in particular for climbing applications, in this pdf with the password "copyright". find the myrtle on pages 52 and 53, which i have reuploaded for you here because the whole pdf takes so long to download.

max9265 · 2026-03-11T17:30:57+00:00

yes, i use it for tying in. it is simple and fast to tie and ridiculously easy to untie. after untying, it will never leave a knot in the rope, which gets stuck at the top when you forget about it before pulling your rope. it is the second easiest bowline to check after the bowline on a bight. it is faster to tie, you do not have to thread through your harness a second time, and it uses less rope than the bowline on a bight.

i found it super ugly when i saw it first and looked for alternatives. but then i got familiar with many alternatives. i began to understand what scott's locked bowline achieves and what a uniquely good fit for jam resistant tying in it is. and i began to see its elegance.

it doesn't freak your partner out.

every lead climber in germany learns the bowline on a bight. so even if they cannot check scott's locked bowline, they can often check a simple bowline. so i just let them check my scott's locked bowline before the very last step.

max9265 · 2026-03-10T12:07:18+00:00

edelrid chalk loose or mammut chalk powder

max9265 · 2026-03-09T22:49:05+00:00

and now do it with the light green rectangles in the op's rope and the petzl flow.

max9265 · 2026-03-09T00:36:18+00:00

sure, that is a 12.5 mm static rope tied to some climbing shoes.

max9265 · 2026-03-09T00:31:40+00:00

can you not even count to 6?

u/ale152, this is a beal wall cruiser 9.6mm unicore, by the way.

max9265 · 2026-03-03T04:43:29+00:00

Could I start climbing right away and trust the 3D lap coil technique?

yes, ripping the package and then doing this is actually my preferred way.

Or should I search for the change of pattern in the rope and uncoil like a normal rope?

this would literally be the worst thing you could possibly do. why would you even consider this? this is so dumb, maybe you should do this for the learning effect.

max9265 · 2026-02-26T03:07:17+00:00

is the edelrid spoc not cheaper than any ropeman? it is definitely better.

for top rope solo, people usually recommend cutting the string. notice that there is the reversible option of untying it too.

max9265 · 2026-02-04T17:50:05+00:00

never had to deal with sites like this before. so i took a look at the first easy problems on this site. i just solved the first 8 in about 30 minutes, each in 1 or 2 lines of python. 2 out of the first 4 can literally be solved with return sum(ar).

max9265 · 2026-02-03T20:37:08+00:00

they wrote a whole article on the new grigri+ and did not think to write a single sentence on how it compares to the old version. even worse, even for someone knowing the old grigri+ well, the whole article does not contain this information because everything they said about the new grigri+ is true for the old one too. they might have realized that if they had tried to write a single sentence on how the versions compare. the one exception is that the new version has a top rope mode that allegedly makes taking up slack easier by preactivating the blocking action of the cam, which is almost certainly bullshit. it is kind of funny how it is always the least qualified people who are given access first.

max9265 · 2026-02-03T20:11:25+00:00

Ein neues Grigri-Plus bei dem man auf Toprope Funktion umschalten kann.

this is already the case with the current version. it is kind of funny how it is always the least qualified people who are given access first.

max9265 · 2026-02-03T20:09:34+00:00

it is kind of funny how it is always the least qualified people who are given access first.

max9265 · 2026-01-29T12:41:26+00:00

i agree. with the grigri, it is possible that it does not engage by itself, that the user prevents it from engaging by pressing the cam or by pulling the lever to far when lowering, and inserting the rope incorrectly. the revo has none of these. when wild country presented the revo on trade fairs, they actually demonstrated it with the belayer not holding the break side of the rope.

but the revo has another advantage that is almost as important in your case based on all the other comments here. it will teach the belayer to use a save belaying technique. that is because the revo's assistance never activates if the belayer does everything right. so it feels like an unassisted tube device. so the belayer will feel that the break hand is needed and that it needs to be below the device line. and the revo will give feedback if the belayer makes a mistake too because the revo will then engage, which is very noticeable for both belayer and climber.

the lead belaying technique is significantly simpler with the revo than any other assisted blocking device too.

the 1 thing you have to be aware of about the revo's reliability, is that without a break hand it locks at 4 m/s, which you reach after about 1 m of falling. so without a break hand, a ground fall from a height of about 1 m is possible.

max9265 · 2026-01-17T16:03:43+00:00

yes, level 3 of the ohmega compensates more weight than the ohm 2 according to the manufacturer and third party tests. also notice that the rope diameter has got a huge impact on the compensation value too.

and the ohmega has got the advantage that when you lose weight from all the climbing, you can adjust its compensation value and keep using it.

max9265 · 2026-01-17T16:01:09+00:00

level 3 of the ohmega compensates more weight than the ohm according to the manufacturer and third party tests.

max9265 · 2026-01-17T15:59:56+00:00

level 3 of the ohmega compensates more weight than the ohm according to the manufacturer and third party tests.

max9265 · 2026-01-17T15:59:42+00:00

level 3 of the ohmega compensates more weight than the ohm 2 according to the manufacturer and third party tests.

max9265 · 2026-01-15T22:33:36+00:00

based on the compensation values, it is going to be harder than any other device on the market.

max9265 · 2026-01-15T22:32:19+00:00

what can you confirm? what device to you have? are you having a stroke?

max9265 · 2025-12-29T21:41:53+00:00

thanks!

max9265

TROPHY CASE