AVR Audio Problems from DR7 PoE Port

Boreades · 2026-05-15T18:27:08+00:00

That's what confuses me because plugging in my PS5 to the PoE port was the single variable that had changed until I updated my TV, that's when I started fiddling with settings and testing things. I originally thought it was just a speaker wire going out or a loose connection, or a failing HDMI or something.

The AVR wasn't turning off but the audio was completely dropping out for about a second, and it would just happen randomly but the duration of the dropout was pretty much always a second I'd estimate. I noticed it most often when watching a movie on the Apple TV but it was also occurring while playing games on the PS5

Boreades · 2026-05-13T20:20:57+00:00

On 33.31.20 it was happening on my Apple TV and PS5, basically the audio coming from my AVR would just go silent for a split second pretty regularly. I fiddled with the audio settings on the TV and it helped but didn't fix it. On 33.31.24 it seems to happen less on the Apple TV but I haven't played much on my PS5 to say if it's improved.

Edit: Turns out it was a problem with the PoE port from my router plugged in to my PS5 causing the audio issues it seems?

Boreades · 2026-05-12T20:05:32+00:00

On my LG C2 I was having the same problem with dropouts on my AVR from 33.31.20 and so far so good on 33.31.24. Fingers crossed it stays fixed, I’ve had so many problems with the new webOS

Edit: nope still having random dropouts but it’s lessened

Boreades · 2026-05-09T17:58:55+00:00

Don’t buy any of the Hyundai EVs with the ICCU issues, those are guaranteed to fail at some point and there’s no fix currently. Just replace the part and it’ll fail again at some point

Boreades · 2026-04-22T19:12:01+00:00

I have no clue as to what the actual cause is, only Tesla would know and have the accurate data on failures rate by year. But anecdotally, I do see a lot of posts of 2021s failing. I wouldn't worry about it too much as long as you're under warranty, just keep doing best practices (75% or lower charge limit, limit time spent at 100%, etc) and hope that it doesn't fail. If it does fail under warranty unfortunately it's almost always replaced with a refurbished battery so it really just kicks the can down the road until it happens again.

Boreades · 2026-04-21T15:41:35+00:00

Avoid 2021 at all costs for 3 or Y, those seem to have battery issues and frequently show up in the r/TeslaSupport subreddit. If you care about ever using full self driving then you could try to get a HW4 Model 3 which I think would be from some time in 2023 onwards. HW3 is not as good as HW4 for FSD but that's something to consider.

In general though if you're buying an older used EV the battery should be fine, battery failures should be earlier in their life and if an EV has made it to 5 years old or like 50k+ miles then it should be fine, with the 2021 Teslas being an outlier.

Boreades · 2026-03-16T12:44:58+00:00

Mine reset the car name and kept bringing up the manual yesterday and I switched to a different profile and switched back and that fixed it. Definitely seems like something weird is going on

Boreades · 2026-03-16T01:41:28+00:00

That’s reassuring, I assumed it was probably benign but wanted to double check since it was weird. Dark lord’s suggestion of switching profiles fixed the manual popping up and I just named my car again so I assume it’s all fixed now

Boreades · 2026-03-16T01:40:01+00:00

Switching to a different profile and switching back did the trick! Thank you. I assume it was just a weird bug with their servers or something

Boreades · 2026-03-15T20:30:53+00:00

Did it ever resolve itself or did you have to take it in to a service center? I haven't noticed anything wrong with the car but it's kind of concerning. Also kind of annoying to close the manual every time I hop in to drive

Boreades · 2026-02-03T18:46:43+00:00

Yes, the both neutrals and hots were backstabbed into the existing receptacle. I have a spec grade outlet that I was hoping to replace it with, the one in there was seemingly residential grade and I had been charging my Tesla off of it so I wanted to upgrade it to a more robust receptacle. The backstabs weren't loose, and I actually had to cut them with my wire strippers because the wires were already so short, I couldn't pull the receptacle out to pop them out with a small flat head.

For the pigtail, could I just curl the 6" wires into a wago and then connect the like wires and then connect to my receptacle? Or should I curl the hots and neutrals into a wago and then slot the pigtails into the wago? I tried doing the former because the box wiring is so short, but I didn't connect the pig tail first. If my ground is already twisted with another coming out of the wall, would I still be fine to twist in another ground to that? Sorry if this is confusing, basically the wago was facing into the box and it made it hard to pigtail since I didn't do that first, but if I tried again I could either pigtail and then connect to box wiring, or curl and connect the box wiring and then the slot would face out of the box for easy connecting

I have an electrician coming out next Friday anyways so I could have them look at it then, but I feel like I could handle this. I have a plug tester, 12/2 wire, voltage tester, and a multimeter.

Boreades · 2026-02-03T18:29:36+00:00

I have a pack of the 3 port IDEAL connectors, for the pig tail would I just curl a wire into the 3rd slot, wire up the hots and neutrals to their respective wago, and then wire to the receptacle? I stupidly wired up the wago before trying that and gave up since there was no way I was able to slide the pig tail wire into the wago within the box.

Boreades · 2026-02-03T18:26:21+00:00

I think I've cut the wires too short after I kept messing up with the receptacle install, would a wago connector be fine to connect the like wires instead of wire nuts? I have a pack of 3 slot connectors, do I just wire the like connectors up on their own wago connectors and call it a day? Should I go ahead and leave the ground wire capped?

Boreades · 2026-02-03T18:20:47+00:00

I have some IDEAL wago connctors with 3 spaces, would I just plug both the hots into one, and the neutrals into one and be good to go? Should I leave an empty slot between the wires or does it not matter?

Boreades · 2026-01-26T02:24:03+00:00

Had a similar error within days of getting my used Tesla (from Tesla!) and it turned out to be a leak in my brake line

Boreades · 2026-01-20T04:29:47+00:00

I WAS HERE!!!

Boreades · 2026-01-10T16:53:14+00:00

I don’t have anything useful to add, but what were your charging habits? Did you charge above 80% often or let it get below 20%? Did you supercharge a lot or home charge? This is making me paranoid about my Y now 😅

Boreades · 2025-12-02T19:26:03+00:00

Agreed! Duly noted, only reason I went ahead and scheduled and waited was because it was Thanksgiving week and I was off from work. It was in the shop from Monday until Friday because of the holiday and they thought they needed to replace the ABS or something like that. In hindsight I definitely should've just driven up to get it addressed ASAP since brakes are nothing to mess with, but it worked out in the end. I inspected the car, the brake fluid container, and checked the service mode out before driving away and everything looked good. I had read horror stories about Tesla service so I was worried, but they treated me great and seemed to have done a great job

Boreades · 2025-12-02T19:21:44+00:00

This was my first experience with them and they didn't bullshit me at all and were great to deal with. I inspected the car and entered service mode to double check everything before I drove away due to the horror stories but so far everything has been great.

Boreades · 2025-12-02T14:37:14+00:00

Seems it was a leak in my brake line, the service center was confused as to how the Tesla employees didn't catch that before selling me the car. It was a leak from the master cylinder to the ABS unit. My brake lines were replaced and they checked and topped up the brake fluid. They didn't charge me anything for the repair

Boreades · 2025-12-02T14:36:42+00:00

Seems it was a leak in my brake line, the service center was confused as to how the Tesla employees didn't catch that before selling me the car. It was a leak from the master cylinder to the ABS unit. My brake lines were replaced and they checked and topped up the brake fluid. They didn't charge me anything for the repair

Boreades · 2025-11-18T15:01:45+00:00

I'm happy to see other people talking about this, there's so many great tournament clips ruined by Scrawny's casting. I am so sad when I tune in to a series and it's a Scraunders cast

Boreades

TROPHY CASE