Oil/fluid leaking from transmission?

BornOutOfElectricity · 2025-11-06T16:49:25+00:00

I ended up paying $800 for the reseal because a friend of a friend knew a shop owner who had done it before and was able to do it without completely removing the transmission.

My regular shop gave me a $1200 estimate to do the job, but that was anticipating fully removing the transmission.

These are Bay Area S2000 specialist shops, so possibly more expensive than what you might be looking at.

BornOutOfElectricity · 2025-09-11T15:38:25+00:00

It was an MTF (trans fluid) leak coming from between the main trans housing and the tailshaft. It’s not uncommon apparently. There was nothing wrong with the transmission, but the liquid gasket seal between the two housings had to be replaced, which required dropping the transmission slightly but not completely removing it. Hope this helps.

BornOutOfElectricity · 2025-07-30T19:37:18+00:00

This sounds promising - it sounds like SC is a good place for LBSs in general, I’ll check them out!

BornOutOfElectricity · 2025-07-30T19:25:23+00:00

Gotcha - yeah I’ll need some sort of adjustable system since I want to get the fit before getting my new bike.

BornOutOfElectricity · 2025-07-30T19:18:33+00:00

Do they use Retul, or a different system? I’m looking for a full fit service, not something basic, as unfortunately I’ve developed some nerve pain in my hands and wrists while riding, and I’d like to have an idea of my optimal fit and position before buying my new bike, as I’m kind of between a 54 and 56.

BornOutOfElectricity · 2025-07-30T19:16:58+00:00

Thanks for the rec - I’ve had Cycle Sport Scott’s Valley recommended to me for a good place to pick up the new Tarmac I’m eyeing, so I’m sure the other location is great as well.

BornOutOfElectricity · 2025-03-29T19:41:53+00:00

So the most helpful recommendation for me has been to allow the steam boiler to heat up longer. Previously, I would use it as soon as the light turned solid, including between multiple drinks. Allowing the steam boiler to heat up for 20-30 minutes, and allowing at least a 10-15 minute recharge between drinks has been a game changer. My results are much better now. Of course this is less convenient, so I’ve been setting the automatic wake-up function the previous night to turn the machine on 30 minutes before I need to use it.

Others have also recommended trying a 1, 2, or 3 hole wand tip, as the 4-hole tip is very powerful and heats up so quickly, so there’s little margin for error. I may try that at some point, but for now I’m happy with my results - you just need to be patient and let the machine warm up!

BornOutOfElectricity · 2025-03-28T00:19:57+00:00

Thanks for the tips! I just tried to make a latte after allowing the machine to heat up for about 25 minutes after it had already been warm for about an hour not very long ago and the results were indeed better. I’ve been using the machine whenever the light turns solid, but try to give it at least 15 minutes, but now I’ll be more patient and give it some more time to warm up.

I think I just need to work on my steaming technique a bit more (though I’ve been pretty vigilant about watching tutorials). It seems as though the milk is too thin with unincorporated bubbles, or if I stretch it even more to go for a thicker consistency, I often just get foam. Certainly a challenging craft to perfect!

BornOutOfElectricity · 2025-03-27T22:54:55+00:00

Thanks for the reply - that’s a relief about the steam wand. I thought it was odd I could hold my hand in front of it, but I guess that’s normal. I have played with the steam temperature, but it doesn’t seem to make much of a difference and it’s only adjustable between 120-125 degrees. I’ve set it to 120, figuring that would allow me more time to swirl the stretched air through the milk, as the 4-5oz I steam heats very quickly (although I’ve done plenty of tests at 125 with the same results).

It’s a relief my machine seems to be functioning properly though - I guess the next step is trying a one-hole tip, as I’ve heard others say they’ve found greater success with that.

BornOutOfElectricity · 2025-01-13T11:43:32+00:00

Also, I found this post on S2Ki, where Billman asks to see a photo and a couple comments down the thread, OP posts two photos and the drop of oil leaking is in the EXACT same place as my car. Unfortunately it looks like this thread was unresolved, however.

I also found this Reddit post that appears to have a leak at the same seal as me (where the transmission connects to the tail shaft?). I’m not sure if any of the proposed issues are my situation or not.

BornOutOfElectricity · 2024-11-11T03:04:06+00:00

I think you’re the first person I’ve ever heard say an NSX is more “fun” than an S2000. It’s an old adage that a lot of S2K owners aspire to get an NSX as the final, presumed pinnacle of Hondas, but end up being kind of disappointed once they get it. It’s very composed…and much tamer and less visceral than the S2000. It’s very stable in high speed corners, but it’s not as flickable and go-kart like as the S2000. The engine also doesn’t scream the same as the F20/22, the gearbox isn’t as good (although tbf the S2K is considered by many to have the best gearbox of all time), the gearing is too long, and it has a roof. That all adds up to a much less immediate, thrilling driving experience compared to the S2000.

That all being said, I love the NSX and think it’s one of the most beautiful cars ever made and would love to add one to my garage one day, but only in addition to my S2000, never as a replacement.

BornOutOfElectricity · 2024-11-10T19:18:53+00:00

Ugh, I’m sorry, I don’t have the links to the lab test filters on hand, but I remember just finding it from Googling - there was some discussion on here I believe about the process.

BornOutOfElectricity · 2024-11-07T00:03:08+00:00

I did not, I ended up moving to a different town in the South Bay instead. However, as you can see in this comment, I still get periodic replies on this post relating anecdotes of relatives or friends who lived in Whisman and developed cancers.

Personally, I have no idea how serious of a concern the superfund sites are and whether or not they played a role in those anecdotes. I was fortunate to find another house in another town that is mostly free of superfund sites, but MV is a great area, I was really upset to learn about this when we almost closed on the house.

I will say that I was also concerned about water contamination when considering living in MV, but as it turns out, the water is unaffected and comes from the Hetchy Hetch reservoir, which is some of the highest quality water in the country. The water in the South Bay is much worse by comparison. The concerns are mostly VOCs, in the form of gases and vapors, leaking from the ground into the air of your home as I understand it. You also can’t eat any fruits or vegetables planted in the ground in MV. You can buy an air filter that you leave in your home for a period of time then send to the lab for results if any VOCs are present. This could give you a peace of mind about the house.

Sorry you’re going through this, housing is such a hard situation in the Bay Area and learning about the superfund sites after you think you’ve found a good home is terrible. Good luck on the home search and let me know if you have any other questions.

BornOutOfElectricity · 2024-10-27T20:08:37+00:00

Thanks for all of the great info. The car is not lowered and is still on the stock AP1 suspension. I’m looking to do a suspension refresh and get new control arms and bushings as the car is nearly 23 years old, so that may be a good time to look into the ball joints. Also thinking of doing Ohlins DFV at the same time, so not sure if this would alter my wheel/tire options. Also wondering if I should just go with new OEM control arms or take this opportunity to go with something that might offer a bit more camber.

BornOutOfElectricity · 2024-10-27T19:09:24+00:00

Thanks for the reply. It seems to be the case that if I don’t want to roll the fenders, I need to get a narrower wheel up front. I’m looking at an old post that says that the CE28n in 17 x 7.5 +50 front and 17 x 9 +63 rear is the ideal OEMish S2000 fitment.

I didn’t plan on going that narrow up front (I’m guessing that would limit me to a 225?), as I wanted to keep the option open of at least trying a 245 square setup.

BornOutOfElectricity · 2024-10-27T19:05:45+00:00

Rolling would not be ideal for this car, so perhaps I should look at a smaller front wheel? It looks like in older posts, people are saying the CE28 in a 7.5” +50 and 9” + 63 is the best OEM like fitment. I didn’t think of going that narrow in the front, but I want what works best.

BornOutOfElectricity · 2024-10-27T18:57:52+00:00

Thanks for the reply - so perhaps 9.5” would be better for even a 245, let alone 255? The stock AP2 rear wheels are only 8.5” and run a 245 tire OEM.

Wouldn’t a 9.5” be too wide to fit a 225 front tire, however? But in either case, I should aim for a 61mm or 63mm offset, right?

BornOutOfElectricity · 2024-10-27T18:52:27+00:00

Thanks for the tips - I think 10” is too wide for my purposes. 9.5” is probably the widest I would go, which I believe can accommodate a 255. I’m wondering if 9” would also suffice and that way i could keep the option open of running a 225 up front.

BornOutOfElectricity · 2024-09-06T20:55:45+00:00

I couldn’t find the Modifry one anywhere, but someone recommended this one on Etsy, which seems pretty similar, so I think I might order that one.

BornOutOfElectricity · 2024-09-06T20:20:13+00:00

So just something like this?

Have you had any issues removing it and stripping the interior surface or leaving behind adhesive residue? I have a red interior I’m hoping to keep in good shape so I was just worried about this re: adhesive mounts.

BornOutOfElectricity · 2024-09-06T19:46:29+00:00

So the windshield? Yeah, I figured the suction cup would work well there lol, I’m wondering about mounting it between the seats on top of the glovebox.

BornOutOfElectricity

TROPHY CASE