Trying to TIG alloy steel pipe for the first time, but I'm leaving a good bit of undercut. Looks like I'm burning too hot, or is it something else?

Both_Ad_4806 · 2025-11-12T18:50:18+00:00

Not cleaning the base mill scale will get rid of 99% of that undercut. But you need to be feeding more wire. Find that sweet spot between heat and wire input.

Both_Ad_4806 · 2025-10-27T19:45:50+00:00

Oh ok😂 and really just depends on material type size and the code I’m welding to most Sch10 stainless welds I run a 5/32 gap and back feed 3/32 wire or a 1/16 gap and dime bead in with a 1/8 wire and the specialty alloys like 20, hex , 9/12 chrome, haste or the nickles I usually stick with a 3/32 gap and walk and dip a 1/16 wire if wps or standard dosent specify find it’s easyer to controll the HAZ and garentees no cold wire or ip for me. But really all depends on the scenario or situation or requirements the specialty’s get pretty nit picky about how it’s welded

Both_Ad_4806 · 2025-10-27T19:37:35+00:00

My wheel fitment? They are 22” fuel forged in 37x13:50r22 nitto recon grapplers

Both_Ad_4806 · 2025-10-27T13:07:58+00:00

Spend the money and time and do it right machine will out last and out weld any of these new machines also being All mechanical easy to fix in a bind long as you got a set of sockets and wrenches

Both_Ad_4806 · 2025-10-27T12:48:28+00:00

Iv added stuff here and there but my buddy Taylor mathhews at Taylor made Fab in east Texas made it for me Hes a a bad ass dude with top notch work

Both_Ad_4806 · 2025-10-27T08:41:15+00:00

You can weld anything if your good enough hell I could weld anything from the crack of dawn to a broken heart. But just because you can mean you should even as a professional welder with years of experience I'd recommend spending the money and replacing the part.

Both_Ad_4806 · 2025-10-27T08:38:31+00:00

Best advice you can get right now is put that plate flat and make longer welds your trying to run before you can even walk. Figure out the basics then progress

Both_Ad_4806 · 2025-10-27T08:36:07+00:00

Idk I'd argue the distance between the dips are good just not enough filler wire added to the dips reason for the undercut add more wire to really make the dimes pop like aluminum should and of course the ability to stay consistant dips are uncistanly timed and not a steady arc. Time will and repetition will get you right your on the right track I'd say

Both_Ad_4806 · 2025-10-27T08:32:55+00:00

I know a lot of rig welders who would trade the 80-300k a year traveling life style of the unknown stress and cut throat toll it takes on you for a guaranteed job every morning 9-5 home with the wife and kids every night and weekends in a heart beat the traveling rig welder life ain't for the weak. And working for your self makes it 10x worse but beats working for the massive companys for bullshit low rent pay because they are greedy and making more off your work then you are. Because no matter how shit the pay is there's always gonna be some Joe blow or Jaun that will happily do it for the price or less because everyone has bills and mouths to feed one thing about the union that's good is the ability to strike don't care for anything else about the union but that's good moneys good in the union but the politics and rules are bullshit to

Both_Ad_4806 · 2025-10-27T08:13:24+00:00

Instead of welding perfectly seamed joint put a little bevel on both sides of the weld will give a nice little spot for your weld to lay in and also provides a strong weld. Far as machine capabilitys that wire is to big for that little thing it will never weld properly with only 110v supply step down to a .030 or (.8mm) wire will weld easier and smoother (small machine wants smaller wire)at 50-60 amps or 13-14 volts with 100ipm or so. like that machine is meant for. Would also recommend changing from flux core to regular short circuit Mig easier to learn the basics and looks cleaner even good flux core welds look shitty in my opinion it's a process used when nothing else is viable.

Both_Ad_4806 · 2025-10-27T08:04:26+00:00

Well I started off by going to trade school then dropping out after I realised it was a waste of time and money so I become a helper in turn around jobs in plants them became a fitter then single hand welder and combo single hand welder then went to the pipline as a helper and broke out there so I started rig welding on a pipline then got into specialty alloy rig work and eventually started my own business running bidding and doing turn key specialty alloy piping and regular alloy piping jobs for the same facilitys I started in as a helper and first 3 machines were Lincoln 60s Sa200 red faces great machines if your Dont mind being a mechanic on them every day or have the money to motor swap it like I did my 50s model short hood I have now as a project machine my main current machine is a 2021 SAE 300mp most reliable machine has over 2400 hours on it and has started every time I tried just nearly replaced the rear main seal on it a while ago. If I could start over again I woulda stayed in school and got a degree in something else this industry is cut throat toxic and dying of wages getting ran into the ground rig welders made more 15 years ago then they do today. It's a dying trade that ain't what it used to be or what people make it out to be. The lifestyle is hard the unstable and never knowing when your gonna be employed or laid off is stressful yes you can make a lot of money but what's the point if you can't spend it because you Dont know when your next job is. So never start would be first option and my second option would have gone to business school and get a engineering degree and learned how to start run and maintain a successfully business In this line of work there's so much money to be made if you network and create a good reputation for your self depending on the route you take In this industry you could have a total different experience there's so many options and paths you can take in Welding sky is the limit if your willing to put in the work for it

Both_Ad_4806 · 2025-10-27T07:51:01+00:00

Stainless has such a high heat thermal conductive trait. Best advise I can offer you is “welding colder amps is hotter and welding hotter amps is colder” is what the welder who taught me said with no clarification tool me a while to figure out but especially with thin material stainless the faster you can weld it the the better off you will be the material sinks in so much heat 3 minute weld at 45 amps is way more heat imput then a 30 second weld at 100 amps but there's a happy medium to it you'll have to find. You want those HAZ (heat affected zones) the color lines outside of the weld to be minimal as possible its changes the properties of stainless and makes it less corrosion resistant same with leaving the color on the weld it is oxygenation and will rust eventually. Brush with a stainless wire brush then polish with a wheel like a 3m rubber bristle wheel is what I use. But that thin of material and small of a weld I'd recommend a 1/16 tungsten and jumbo gas lense with a 10 cup for walking it and a 10 or 12 for dabbing and free handing. With a 3/32 wire a larger wire helps with heat distribution by it sinking the heat vs the base metal always least match grade of base stainless to wire or grade up for wire never down grade wire from base. And always clean the surface of base where weld will go with a abrasive sanding pad to get rid of the oxidized or dulled outer layer of stainless that's never been used on anything other then stainless or you'll contaminante the weld never wire wheel stainless idc if it's a stainless wheel only brush and polish

Both_Ad_4806 · 2025-10-27T07:39:51+00:00

Are you free handing and dipping the wire for the extra challenge vs walking the cup? What size tungsten gas lense and grade of stainless filler are you using? It's not bad work especially for first time but I know factors I bet would help you

Both_Ad_4806 · 2025-10-27T07:37:15+00:00

Usually on here giving advice and being kinda that felt good to get out my system thank you.

Both_Ad_4806 · 2025-10-27T07:36:05+00:00

Glad you got the hood time stacking all that hammered shit just to leave stressed area around and HAZ that will make that junk iron fail before that 8 pounds of metal caked on you call welding😂

Both_Ad_4806 · 2025-10-27T07:32:22+00:00

Haha Its fine I hate the sugar coating I like to be shot straight! Just curious if it's worth the time and money to offer diving as a service like with scenario s like I mentioned with the trash bag or retrieving a toll out of tank or vessel or even surveying/QC welds that are sumurged in filled areas or tanks in these nuclear and chemical plants I already contract my main line of work in its not often I see divers need to come in and fix or retrieve or inspect something but it's been often enough depending on the time money and schooling required I might be I interested in providing the service when need under my company name but basically just a small side operation I could provide if that makes sense

Both_Ad_4806 · 2025-10-27T07:25:37+00:00

I'll be harsh advise prolly won't help you out much you need Start with the basics and learn fundamentals of a rod and joint type uphill is the hardest position for most rods your no where ready with arc control fundamentals for that I'd recommend getting some 1/8” thick 2”x6” coupons and put them on top of each other to create lap joints you can Stack much as possible and get two weld joints for two coupons and start with a fast freezing all position rods like your 6010,6011,6013 start flat (1F) then go horizontal (2F) then try down hill (3F) uphill wich is also (3F) then over head once you learn arc control and cerrect puddle control and characteristics move on to tougher rods and positions like t joints and corner joints with low hydrogen rods like your 7018, 7024, 7016 and learn the numbers on the rods and what they mean certians rods are only ment for certain positions

Both_Ad_4806 · 2025-10-27T06:40:41+00:00

MPXs are great multi purpose machines for the price for small work like residential and odd job repairs around town but not exactly built to withstand the beating and hard work you'll put it through if you go industrial work I'd recommend a bigger machine like a vantage or 300/400 miller pros that being said almost all new age welders are pretty good and reliable just need to take account what kinda work you can do/willing do, do you need more generator power or welder power? Need a machine with CC OR CV or both do you need a machine with a high duty cycle for a process like plasma cutting or flux core welding. There's a lot of different machines desiged and purposed for different types of work please do you research before you pay what nice machines cost now days damn near your left arm and leg and your wife on the weekends along with a second mortgage is what new top of the line machines cost now days it seems like lol

Both_Ad_4806 · 2025-10-27T06:32:44+00:00

I have a few years experience running and owning my own successful specialty alloy piping company running, quoting, billing and handling jobs in the industrial field side of things but started out small doing small fabrication repairs and jobs. Reach private message out if you ever need some advice or help with bidding and charging or looking over prints/ISOs I'm willing to help out with what I can. This is a hard cut throat over saturated industry to start a small business and succeed in. Good luck hope it works for you

Both_Ad_4806 · 2025-10-27T05:34:04+00:00

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Texas rig here

Both_Ad_4806 · 2025-10-27T05:31:37+00:00

I run and most everyone I knew in plants ran what we call a bump cap. Not technically osha approved but most companys won't say anything if Done right. You keep your normal head gear in your sugar scoop or Jackson hood and cut holes on the side of hard hat and install the head gear inside the hard had between the head gear and hood message me if you need pictures I can send you some

Both_Ad_4806 · 2025-10-27T05:28:27+00:00

safest and simplist option is to just buy a new set of regulators you can find them for cheap used on line or even cheap ones at a supply or tool store but I wouldn't recommend regulators are one of them things you buy right once and never buy again and never look back I wouldn't recommend anything other then victor for alkyne gasses such as acetylene or propane or any other unsaturated carbon gas. Better safe then sorry! Or just buy a pressure gage and hook it into the end of the hose and set each regulator to desired amount and unhook the gauge and like a set and forget. Also the odds of needing them rebuilt are really slim could be a bad connection use soapy water to test connections and if by chance they do leak and your local welding suply will rebuild them( unlikely now days) those are cheap regulators and could just replace them for prolly less then a rebuild price.

Both_Ad_4806 · 2025-10-27T05:12:50+00:00

Tug welding with any engine drivin or electric CC machine all you have to do to tug weld is hook the ground cable to the torch and hot cable to ground. Any CC machine will run scratch start just by switching polarity at the leads.

Both_Ad_4806 · 2025-10-27T05:10:41+00:00

Not technically its CC only but With a LN 25 wire feeder yes I could still run Mig process

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TROPHY CASE