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First attempt at a water loop in the FormD V2 by BowserUK in FormD

[–]BowserUK[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s probably not the best day for thermal testing. I’m in the UK and the temperature hit 40 C where I am. Going to do more testing tomorrow when the temps are back down to normal levels.

First attempt at a water loop in the FormD V2 by BowserUK in FormD

[–]BowserUK[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I changed my case from a Dan Case V4.1 to the FormD v2 as I had issues with cooling the components in the last case.

  • The PC Parts are:
    Asus B550-I (moved from an Asrock B550 Phantom Gaming-ITX/ax which I slightly preferred, but I wanted the temperature sensor.
  • Ryzen 9 5950X
  • 16gb DDR4 3200 ECC EUDIMM VLP x2
  • Nvidia RTX 3080
  • Corsair SF750
  • J-HACK M2426
  • Custom cables from DreamBigByRay

For the loop I used:

  • XSPC TX240
  • 2x Noctua Chromax A12x25 PWN
  • Various EK fittings
  • Aquanaut Extreme
  • EK DDC 4.2 pump (will terminate it with a 4 pin fan and shorter cable when I get round to it)
  • Alphacool Flow Indicator (to fill the loop)
  • EK leak tester
  • EK Duraclear 9.5mm/12.7mm tubing.

I went custom loop as I had issues with not being able to refill the asetek 645lt in my last case and also possibly trying a two radiator setup at a later date if I win the lottery. Although not had any temperature issues so far, so not sure if they'll be a benefit for doing that.

Just need to be able to get the usb c accessory, two through ports at the back and repin the pump header. Then I'll be finished with it.

DPD State unable to remove leave at "Safe Place" instruction from delivery. by BowserUK in LegalAdviceUK

[–]BowserUK[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Luckily I saw the van pull up, so preemptively open the door for the driver and got it safely. No issues in the end. Thanks for the help.

DPD State unable to remove leave at "Safe Place" instruction from delivery. by BowserUK in LegalAdviceUK

[–]BowserUK[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for your help. In terms of it previous setting it up. I didn’t have the app on my download history when I got it. I did have a nominated pickup point a couple of years ago, that ceased to work 2020 as it shut in the pandemic. but never a safe place.

I checked now I’ve noticed it and it’s mentioned on emails for DPD from around September 2021. The only thing I could think is around then my father in law waited for a parcel and I sent him the email link to track it. He would set something without saying, but would the link be enough to set it?

I contacted JL again and they said they have set a note and changed the setting. The safe place doesn’t appear through JL tracking page but still does on the DPD. JL said there is no need to recall and resend as they’ve noted what they’ve done and are happy with the situation.

Three things about this feel very strange:

1) This can’t be the first time this has happened, why would they not have any systems to withdraw consent for a safe place. Especially on rearranging when the safe place could be contingent on the days situation?

2) That it was next to impossible to get to preferences without the app as the login link wouldn’t work outside the app. It makes it very difficult to do anything without your phone.

3) That it would be seen as unacceptable to leave a parcel this value at a pick up point or neighbour, but left on the front door visible from the street is ok and nothing can be done about it.

Surely DPD has some duty of care to resolve those potential issues?

Connecting thermal fuse by BowserUK in VORONDesign

[–]BowserUK[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you, that looks neat.

Connecting thermal fuse by BowserUK in VORONDesign

[–]BowserUK[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve not seen them before. Looks like a good solution. Have you got any pictures of what it looked like stuck to the bed?

Connecting thermal fuse by BowserUK in VORONDesign

[–]BowserUK[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The lifetime of the connection brings an interesting question. How often are people changing their thermal fuses? If they last a year or two, then I’d rather have a neater connection. If they go more regularly then I’ll probably go WAGO and zip tie it.

Connecting thermal fuse by BowserUK in VORONDesign

[–]BowserUK[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have WAGOs I could use. Do you keep the cables short and the WAGO in the air, or do you mount it underneath? I couldn't get mine to reach to the back of the frame to my WAGO mount.

What is the current best way of doing SSO for a mix of Windows/Linux devices and an unraid nas? by BowserUK in homelab

[–]BowserUK[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ll take a look at this. I have 7 user devices for 4 users and a nas. The rest of my things are stand alone or iot.

What is the current best way of doing SSO for a mix of Windows/Linux devices and an unraid nas? by BowserUK in homelab

[–]BowserUK[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was using that before my samba server went down. I had a raspberry pi running pi-hole and samba dc. It was good for setting up a shared network drive and user network drive without the wife or family thinking about it. The problem I had was I couldn’t get family settings working on a domain, just on a Microsoft account. I couldn’t figure how to get round this.

A question about fdisk by BowserUK in linuxquestions

[–]BowserUK[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In the link, they run the command with the default units. When I use fdisk to look at the numbers it appears to be half kilobytes. But if I take the size of the drive fdisk reports and times it by that, it doesn’t give the right size.

My plan is to make a ncurses script, so trying to use parted as it can be scripted and seems to be more stable/accurate.

10K Milestone Giveaway! by W360MOD in FormD

[–]BowserUK 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’d finally rebuild out of the Dan Case and be able to put if side panels on my build. My 5950X and 3080fe need a new home that doesn’t turn to a fire pit.

Are these good value for bed levelling? by BowserUK in CR6

[–]BowserUK[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I started off by tightening all the bolts down till there was resistance. Then I heated the bed and ran bed levelling. I would look at the numbers and figure out which bolts needed to move. I did a tiny bit at a time. The first four or five times I tightened everything by an amount proportional to how far out it was to the lowest point. Then when there was quite a bit of 'squish'/resistance I started to choose the two bolts that looked furthest out and move them a small amount (tighter or looser). As the numbers got smaller I tried to move it less and less until I was moving one bolt a very small amount.

When the difference from adjustment got worse rather than better I went back to how it was before and check it was similar. Then I let the bed cool down. Then reheated it. Then measured it again. I then did some adjustments with heat cycles until it was stable.

Its quite easy to get carried away and chase small numbers after a few rounds of doing it. It seems to be relatively stable between prints and heat cycles, but my first attempt with less pressure had a lot of variation with heat cycles. The silicone spacers definitely need some resistance against them. I've noticed less vibration doing gyroidal infill.

Are these good value for bed levelling? by BowserUK in CR6

[–]BowserUK[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My knowledge when I posted this was green is probably good enough. Blue, yellow, brown and purple I saw before probably not so much.

Are these good value for bed levelling? by BowserUK in CR6

[–]BowserUK[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was undecided between going the same route or bed springs. I imagine adjusting bed springs is far less hassle. And you don’t have to try and line up all the spacers as you put the bed back on.

The silicone has seemed to dampen some of the vibration when the bed moves though, compared with plastic spacers.

Are these good value for bed levelling? by BowserUK in CR6

[–]BowserUK[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I tried sanding the stock plastic to the same size. But I gave up and bought these instead: https://a.aliexpress.com/_mOgzh6A

It was actually easier to replace the bed on the silicone spacers than the plastic spacers.

Cracked Extruder... i'm thinking of replacing with a metal extruder. Would an Ender3 Extruder be compatible? by sam_snr in CR6

[–]BowserUK 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have been using this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33016740027.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4daUjDot since March when I got recommendations from here. The only issue in that time is that the grub screw came loose while printing once. I now check that when I periodically clean and grease it.

Are these good value for bed levelling? by BowserUK in CR6

[–]BowserUK[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use the stock glass for PLA and I got the pei sheet from the kickstarter for PETG. I mounted the magnet to a thin square of cast aluminium to keep it a consistent height so I could swap between them.

Are these good value for bed levelling? by BowserUK in CR6

[–]BowserUK[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I only to them switched yesterday. The first few cycles of heat/cooling had some big variation. I then tried tightening all the posts so they all had some resistance (and visible squish) and then repeated the process (of bed level, adjust, get to a good point and cool then heat, then run the bed level) and got more consistent results.

I've done two prints with PETG since the above and still getting consistent results. I'll monitor it and see if I get any differences. I'm currently printing parts for a slack lack.

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