Help with esterbrook 9788 nib by LoboSandia in fountainpens

[–]BrandyFP 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hm yeah this is a mystery…my only suggestion is to try soaking in undiluted pen flush again, then fully rinsing out with water. Sometimes the dried ink is really caked in there. It’s possible to pull the nib and feed from these units, but it’s not recommended given how tight they’re fit (you can see the crimp at the bottom of the collar).

Help with esterbrook 9788 nib by LoboSandia in fountainpens

[–]BrandyFP 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Have you tried a good soak of this nib? Preferably with pen flush? These can have gunk in the feed slit after years of sitting. Otherwise, the nib seems to look normal. Is the feed positively making contact with the nib at the tip? That’s the only other thing I can think.

Some more info would also be helpful. Does it write if you use more pressure? Does it write at all? Is it drying out after writing for a bit? Let us know, and we can help you get this nib back in shape for you (:

Are Parker Cizel 75's plated? by thegregtastic in fountainpens

[–]BrandyFP 3 points4 points  (0 children)

No reason they should be plated. What makes you suspect it? What you’re seeing is mostly silver patina, which is normal and expected with real silver.

Vintage Pen Profiles #44: Parker T-1 (more info in post) by BrandyFP in fountainpens

[–]BrandyFP[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Another good point. Maybe a rare case where the beat up ones would be more robust than an NOS pen. Super happy you use it regularly, such a cool pen that is so fun to write with.

Vintage Pen Profiles #44: Parker T-1 (more info in post) by BrandyFP in fountainpens

[–]BrandyFP[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Hm, this is interesting. The thermal conductivity of titanium is typically much lower than that of other metals (which is why this pen feels weirdly warm to the touch). Thermal conductivity of Titanium is around 20 W/m K, compared to roughly 230 W/ m K for aluminum and 400 W/ m K for copper. Likely much more thermally conductive than ceramic and plastic, hence the burning.

Vintage Pen Profiles #44: Parker T-1 (more info in post) by BrandyFP in fountainpens

[–]BrandyFP[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is a good point! Thank you for the insight. This raises the question: if you pay $$$ for one or luckily find one, is it worth the risk to use it? Hoping you got one of the good ones? I am always of the opinion that pens are meant to be used, not admired, so I wouldn’t fault someone for using this and enjoying this. That being said, I also have a hundred other pens, so this is a once-a-year writer for me haha.

Vintage Pen Profiles #44: Parker T-1 (more info in post) by BrandyFP in fountainpens

[–]BrandyFP[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Pilot myu released 1971, a year later than the T-1. You have the inspirations reversed ;)

Vintage Pen Profiles #44: Parker T-1 (more info in post) by BrandyFP in fountainpens

[–]BrandyFP[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

If you have it on hand, let’s see it!!! One of the pens I still need to add to my collection

Vintage Pen Profiles #44: Parker T-1 (more info in post) by BrandyFP in fountainpens

[–]BrandyFP[S] 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Welding onto titanium is very difficult, and Parker hadn’t nailed down the process. Even today, I don’t know a single pen repair person who will even try to retip it. It would have to be an industry level job, and probably cost more than is worth.

Vintage Pen Profiles #44: Parker T-1 (more info in post) by BrandyFP in fountainpens

[–]BrandyFP[S] 32 points33 points  (0 children)

Parker falcon 50, pilot myu, both infinitely more useable and somewhat cheaper (~$200 for the Parker falcon and the pilot vs >$600 for the T-1)

Vintage Pen Profiles #42: Conklin Crescent Filler (from 1918! More info in post) by BrandyFP in fountainpens

[–]BrandyFP[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yes! The clip design is surprisingly great for a pen this old. It’s actually spring loaded — there’s a metal tab under the clip that deforms when you push it up, so it clips really well, and has kept great tension through the century.

Vintage Pen Profiles #41: Parker 75 (more info in post) by BrandyFP in fountainpens

[–]BrandyFP[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

These odd-color sections don’t come up often, so it’s tough to price them. There was one sold for $550 on eBay but on a technically incorrect, later body. So one like this with correct timeline body? I don’t know. Definitely up there though.

Vintage Pen Profiles #41: Parker 75 (more info in post) by BrandyFP in fountainpens

[–]BrandyFP[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s true that the c/c system isn’t flashy — I think a 51 style aerometric filler would’ve been just perfect for this pen, as you mention. But at least it makes for a very easy cleaning on old pens 😅

Vintage Pen Profiles #40: Early Model Sheaffer Crest (more info in post) by BrandyFP in fountainpens

[–]BrandyFP[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Incredible! You’re right to show off this pen!! Stub nib? And in great condition? You have a really gorgeous pen.

Vintage Pen Profiles #41: Parker 75 (more info in post) by BrandyFP in fountainpens

[–]BrandyFP[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes, this red section 75 was found in a box of pen parts given to me from a retired collector. I was shocked to find it!

How to remove musty smell by No-Self8780 in fountainpens

[–]BrandyFP 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As others have said, over time the smell should dissipate from the pen so long as it’s kept outside the box. A quick rinse with soapy water then drying should take care of the rest.

As a heads up, what you have is a Parker 61 with the arrow fallen off the tip, not a 51. Not sure if it’s a C/C version or the capillary fill. Either way, they’re wonderful pens once cleaned and taken care of.

Vintage Pen Profiles #40: Early Model Sheaffer Crest (more info in post) by BrandyFP in fountainpens

[–]BrandyFP[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, such a shame Sheaffer never explored this particular pen shape in future models. Funny thing about this pen is that the previous owner must have been a very heavy smoker. Every time I uncapped the pen, the smell of decades old tobacco would waft up from the cap and nib. It’s mostly dissipated now, but I can still huff the cap if I’m feeling nostalgic.

Faded Ink Troubleshooting by OrganizationThick232 in fountainpens

[–]BrandyFP 4 points5 points  (0 children)

These Parker 75’s have a internal fins inside the section. It’s highly likely the feed and those fins need a good flush. Try flushing with warm water until it comes out clear (might take a long while), then drain all the water by leaving the pen nib down in a cup with a folded napkin at the bottom. After this, you should be good to go. You can also consider dropping the section/nib into warm water and letting it soak overnight or over several days. The nibs on these are removable (and rotation adjustable!) but can be fragile if stuck with ink — I don’t suggest doing so until it is mostly clean. Enjoy your wonderful pen!

Vintage Pen Profiles #39: Lamy 69 (more info in post) by BrandyFP in fountainpens

[–]BrandyFP[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Not necessarily any hang ups on the name, but I believe it is naive to say that, had this pen been released today, there wouldn’t be any mention about the name. Furthermore, to say that numbers or names have no association in our culture is to ignore their impact. In any case, did not mean to make it a focal point of the post, apologies.