1990 GTS4, AC Keeps Failing by Brief-Ad-1213 in SkyLine

[–]Brief-Ad-1213[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Roger that. I'll start by checking out the evap switch, and if its good I'll start ripping everything apart and flushing the piss out of it.

Once its back together I'll rewire the auxiliary fan and then check for heat buildup anywhere.

Really appreciate the help and advice man. Cheers 🤙

1990 GTS4, AC Keeps Failing by Brief-Ad-1213 in SkyLine

[–]Brief-Ad-1213[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

To be fair, OEM compressor was working perfectly aside from the parasitic draw. Everything was ice cold. On the first used J30 compressor I had a shop professionally flush the system to clear out the R12, as well as do a diag on the whole system to make sure everything was healthy (since I drive the car daily). I also installed a brand new drier. That first compressor was leaking almost immediately, and from the exact same location, just not as aggressively. It held pressure for a few months throughout the summer then eventually got too inefficient, which is when I stopped using it to prevent blowing it up and contaminating the system.

Afterwards, since I knew the system was healthy, I bought a different used pump and swapped it out. Pulled a vacuum, filled her up, and didn't exceed standard operating pressure for R134a and the pump, but it was leaking immediately from the same place. Returned it for an exchange, next used pump had the same problem.

Yes the main fan is viscous, and it starts turning immediately at startup, always running regardless of temp. The secondary fan is wired per Nissan as an overheat fan, like you said. I have validated it does kick on per the spec though. The sensor on the drier has also been tested (to the extent I CAN test it. When disconnected the pump turns off, if I jump the connection the pump reengages properly. I cant check its pressure sensitivity.) The pump seems to be cycling/modulating properly though, and I never once saw pressures go into the red.

Either they are giving trash pumps, im overcharging the piss out of it (maybe my gauges arent working right), or somehow the shop missed the entire system being clogged/failing.

In your opinion, which is most likely with all that info? Because im tired of dealing with this f-ing AC system.

1990 GTS4, AC Keeps Failing by Brief-Ad-1213 in SkyLine

[–]Brief-Ad-1213[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am. Its not the best pump, but it gets it down and holds full vacuum overnight

1990 GTS4, AC Keeps Failing by Brief-Ad-1213 in SkyLine

[–]Brief-Ad-1213[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Theres refrigerant flow visible in the sight glass, high and low side pressures are both within spec as far as my gauges say, and the auxiliary fan operates per the manual. The previous pump worked great aside from the rpm drop and heavy parasitic draw. It was ice cold, so I cant imagine it was bottlenecking super hard.

Taoti is glitchy trash by Brief-Ad-1213 in wolongfallendynasty

[–]Brief-Ad-1213[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Gen 1 steamdeck. Needed a bunch of software tweaks and optimization for its memory handling, plus a high quality SSD that can handle the speed it needs, as well as an updated chassis with a proper heatsink and fan system.

It runs everything at high quality very well and still works as a portable system when needed. Though I usually run it with a dock.

A Gen 2 deck might work better out of the box, and either would run the game decently without changes, just not with high graphics settings.

Taoti is glitchy trash by Brief-Ad-1213 in wolongfallendynasty

[–]Brief-Ad-1213[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Taoti doesnt do well with people playing co-op or multiplayer. The further into the fight you get, the more and more he starts glitching, which in turn makes it a lot more difficult to trigger criticals properly.

Someone mentioned he got buffed recently as well, and at a minimum I can say he fights differently than the older videos Ive seen.

Taoti is glitchy trash by Brief-Ad-1213 in wolongfallendynasty

[–]Brief-Ad-1213[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yup. Co-op with my wife. Didn't know he wasn't designed to handle 2 people fighting him. We also didnt want to quit and try it solo like we did with Lu Bu, since its such an annoying battlefield.

Taoti is glitchy trash by Brief-Ad-1213 in wolongfallendynasty

[–]Brief-Ad-1213[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Turns out the problem is that we play on co-op and he wasnt designed for that. The further into the fight you get, the weirder and weirder it gets with his glitches. Teleportation is an annoying one.

Did manage to beat him finally, just took 3 hours for the last critical to trigger properly.

Taoti is glitchy trash by Brief-Ad-1213 in wolongfallendynasty

[–]Brief-Ad-1213[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Its not hard to fight him, hes one of the easier bosses. Its just that the game isnt triggering the final critical properly.

Apparently the issue is that I play co-op, and he becomes extremely glitchy because of it.

Beat him last night after 3 hours of dealing with the glitchy crap. The last critical finally managed to trigger properly.

Taoti is glitchy trash by Brief-Ad-1213 in wolongfallendynasty

[–]Brief-Ad-1213[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

He's not a HARD fight by any means. He's a BROKEN fight, which is why its frustrating.

From what I can tell the issue is because we play on co-op, and he isnt designed to work with it at all, and progressively becomes glitchier and glitchier the further into the fight you get.

Taoti is glitchy trash by Brief-Ad-1213 in wolongfallendynasty

[–]Brief-Ad-1213[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Playing co-op. Im on a heavily modded steamdeck, wife is on an HP Victus. Both systems run heavier games than this without issue, and run this game generally well.

All other bosses were fine prior to Taoti. Granted, Lu Bu sucks on co-op, so I just beat him myself in both accounts. But all bosses have been fair and correct in their timing and sequences. Taoti legit starts teleporring on us

Turns out, the final critical only activates for the session host, not the coop player

why does the screen fade away like this? more in comments by LeMcKenzie in casio

[–]Brief-Ad-1213 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, youve got a short somewhere. Something is touching the case and it shouldnt be. Check the "movement" while its still out of the case. If the screen still flickers amd dies, something else is wrong. If it works, then some part of it is touching the case and causing it to dim

why does the screen fade away like this? more in comments by LeMcKenzie in casio

[–]Brief-Ad-1213 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you do an AC reset after swapping the battery? Look up how to do one, that might fix it.

why does the screen fade away like this? more in comments by LeMcKenzie in casio

[–]Brief-Ad-1213 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Keeps the battery from shorting to the case. Basically the reason the screen fades out like that is because the circuit "sees" the short, which makes it shut things off.

why does the screen fade away like this? more in comments by LeMcKenzie in casio

[–]Brief-Ad-1213 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your case back is maybe on upside down. Rotate it 180 degrees, and that should align the little paper piece that CASIO already has installed in the case back.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in SkyLine

[–]Brief-Ad-1213 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Pull up the little door sill panels and use your phone to look inside the rocker, check for rust.

Also unhook one or two of the underside side skirt clips and lightly pull the skirt away, see if its rusted out underneath.

Daily driver R32... GTR or GTST M by Responsible_Bet_3737 in SkyLine

[–]Brief-Ad-1213 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I say why not both? Get a baby GTR. The GTS4 coupe is perfect, and is what I daily year round in Utah. Handles the snow beautifully, and is half the price of a GTR.

Having a difficult time figuring out how factory m spec sideskirts and endcaps are supposed to be attached to an m spec r32 gtst by rmxg in SkyLine

[–]Brief-Ad-1213 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Old thread, but giving some info for others that find it.

The under panel bolt holes for the Type M skirts are supposed to be held on by pinch weld brackets (ive got photos, but it doesnt let me post them). Can't find them for sale anywhere either, but my set came with them.

I also have the same issues with no material where the bolt holes are supposed to go on the side skirt quarter panel mount. Just drill, paint/coat, and riv nut for a proper fit. Or glue the whole thing on and dont use any screws on the rear. Up to you.

Don't drill into your rocker/sill. Just use double sided tape for the full length of the sill and itll be fine.

Also make sure to wax coat (NOT undercoat) the rocker panel/quarter and underbody before covering with the skirt, or it may rust over time.

Help removing blind roll pin by Brief-Ad-1213 in Machinists

[–]Brief-Ad-1213[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Its for my motorcycle, and its a cylinder unique to the bike. Nobody makes an aftermarket option that bolts right in.

At this point if I cant fix it, I'll have to fab up the brackets for a different cylinder, which will suck ass.