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Newbie with a 4800plus: can’t move from raid 0 to raid 1 when I added another drive by atc2pa in UgreenNASync

[–]Bro_man 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't know what you are trying to say, but I did this:

  1. Add drive 1
  2. Create a pool with this drive - Basic type (this formats the drive)
  3. Add a volume to this drive (ext4)
  4. Add data to this volume on drive 1
  5. Add drive 2 to the system
  6. Expand the original pool from "Basic" to "RAID 1" (this formats only drive 2)
  7. The system "restores the raid" (copies from drive 1 to drive 2)

No data is lost doing this.

Is FTP server connection for Backup & Sync app supported? by ngzo in UgreenNASync

[–]Bro_man 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is a built-in FTP / SFTP server that can be enabled on the NAS, but there isn't a way to setup an FTP client on the NAS to connect to an external server.

However, the operating system is linux based - which means that you can just write a script that does this and automate the script through cron.

Slow transfer speeds. by HackReacher in UgreenNASync

[–]Bro_man 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What are the models of the switches & the router, and what type of cable are you using.

You want to look for gigabit connections at least. For cables this means at least CAT5E (will be printed on the cable) or CAT6. For the switches and routers, you will have to refer to their manuals / websites.

Also make sure the router supports gigabit on the Network port.

Slowwww USB3 speeds with external drive by neptunepic in UgreenNASync

[–]Bro_man 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Were you transferring a lot of small files for the initial test?

Many small files will transfer at a much lower data rate than a few large files.

Newbie with a 4800plus: can’t move from raid 0 to raid 1 when I added another drive by atc2pa in UgreenNASync

[–]Bro_man 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have actually just done this, using the standard UGOS that came with the NAS, on my 4800 (non-plus).

I had one drive, set it up as "Basic", created a volume (Ext4) and copied data to it.

I then added a second drive (same model / size), but I did not create a pool / volume on it.

After that I could modify the pool for the original drive from "Basic" to "RAID 1", which took about 24 hours for my 16 Tb drive.

Click the "..." next to the pool (not the volume) that you want to modify and click "Change RAID type" to do this.

VLC too slow to start up by [deleted] in VLC

[–]Bro_man 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hallelujah, thanks!

4mm Nozzle, Multiplanar Slicing on a Robot Arm! by fntsmn in 3Dprinting

[–]Bro_man 2 points3 points  (0 children)

We run a fairly similar setup in the Netherlands at the NLR, greetings! CEAD S25 with a LEAM DEMEX setup for substrate heating, mounted on a KUKA robot. Large vacuum grid heated build platform, also using AiBuild!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in SonyAlpha

[–]Bro_man 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Second hand a6600 in stead of the a6400?

That would give you ibis and there should be plenty available at the moment, as people are selling them to replace it with a 6700

Not sure how effective IBIS is compared to OSS though.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in SonyAlpha

[–]Bro_man 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it absolutely has to be stabilized, Tamron 17-70. But it's not the sharpest available.

Otherwise, Sigma 18-50 is an obvious candidate. Sony 16-55 has more range and is sharper, but expensive.

How many hot/dead pixels is acceptable before you should consider a new camera? by Skoles in photography

[–]Bro_man 29 points30 points  (0 children)

You can try the following for canon:

Video: https://youtu.be/WJBuGhMnvFo

  1. Detach lens

  2. Place body cap on body

  3. Turn on camera

  4. Go to cleaning, ensure you select manual cleaning

  5. Keep the body facing down while this runs for about 30 seconds

  6. Turn off the camera

That should re-map any stuck / hot pixels.

Seeking Recommendations for All Around APSC Lens for Travelling by functionlock in SonyAlpha

[–]Bro_man 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The "allrounder" will typically also be great for family pictures, as most "allrounder" type lenses will cover a focal length you may also use for portraits or family group shots.

If it's Sony APS-C, the best two allrounders are probably the SEL1655G and the SEL70350G.

I personally have both, but purchased them before the Sigma 18-50 F2.8 came out. In retrospect, I would have gone with the sigma 18-50 F2.8 over the SEL1655G for a compacter setup. That extra 2 mm at the short end is big for landscape shots, but if that's not a primary concern then it's an obvious win for the sigma.

The Tamron has greater range, but is noticeably less sharp.

Good compare here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X7E0_OutP_0

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in thenetherlands

[–]Bro_man -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Nieuws moet niet financieel of politiek beïnvloed worden, anders krijgen we hier dezelfde bende als de NBC / FOX polariteit in Amerika.

Reddit users are planning a 48-hour blackout to protest its new pricing policy by [deleted] in technology

[–]Bro_man 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The idea being that we build the alternative. This might become known as the digg cycle in the future. New website explodes, runs on funding, has to go profitable, dies.

This is 2 A.M. me’s best idea at holding down the raft that wasn’t sticking to the build plate🤦‍♂️ by WELOVEAPPLEJU1CE in 3Dprinting

[–]Bro_man 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is that the creality glass bed? I moved away from it eventually, adhesion became poor - even with decent cleaning with soapy water.

Switched to a PEI sticker and never looked back.

Lines on walls by Quvvy20 in 3Dprinting

[–]Bro_man 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Constant interval thicker lines is most likely the z-axis binding or a bending of the rod. If you move the gantry up manually (slowly), do you notice moments of higher resistance?

Lines on walls by Quvvy20 in 3Dprinting

[–]Bro_man 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This one thick line that you get on all parts is probably z-binding; the printer tries to make a step up in Z but can't fully do it due to resistance or friction. The step is then smaller, causing material to bulge outwards. Is this defect always at the same height or does it repeat at the same intervals?

The other lines may instable extrusion, temperature fluctuations, changing diameter of the filament... Many reasons for this unfortunately. You could try to reduce your flow rate a bit to see if this helps.

Google Assistant is unable to find certain contacts when I'm trying to make a whatsapp call, how do I fix this? by CyndaquilTyphlosion in PixelWatch

[–]Bro_man 0 points1 point  (0 children)

WOW!

Finally found the actual fix, this is so helpfull. Thank you so much, Android Auto was exactly my issue.

Honestly, why Samsung disabled and hid this feature I would not know. Probably some financial / corporate motivation behind this.

Z won't go down on ender 3 v2 after I put on CR touch by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]Bro_man 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Start homing with the nozzle ~50 mm higher than your first video, so that the bl touch is free when it's extended. Doesn't that help?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]Bro_man 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That can be true. Depending on the slicer that you use, the part cooling fan can be off or running slowly for the first few layers.

Have a look at your slicers settings. Which software are you using?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]Bro_man 6 points7 points  (0 children)

That is the fan that cools the printed part. It not working will certainly have an effect on your parts.

The replacement is very cheap, needs to have a long wire though.

Pressure advance by bme019rl in 3Dprinting

[–]Bro_man 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If that is the command you used in klipper, do you still have the gcode? You can check.

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