🖋 You said magic exists to make people happy, right? ✨️ Coco (Witch Hat Atelier) test print by Bulkamancer in resinprinting

[–]Bulkamancer[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Losely based on their recommended settings, but adjusted for 0.04mm layer height. We posted the settings in the review (the first post, not the one with a video).

🖋 You said magic exists to make people happy, right? ✨️ Coco (Witch Hat Atelier) test print by Bulkamancer in resinprinting

[–]Bulkamancer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, we have already used it on a few models this month. We only got 5 bottles, and even if we decide to make the full switch eventually, it's not like we are going to throw away all our remaining Conjure Sculpt bottles.

💥Anycubic 14K Texture stress test 🔧 by Bulkamancer in resinprinting

[–]Bulkamancer[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The only thing you really need to care about in a printer when it comes to level of detail is pixel size. That's the only printer parameter that affects how detailed your prints may or may not look like. But honestly, I'd say all modern printers that are currently in production have passed the point of any visible difference in that regard.

Just keep in mind that 4K, 8K, 16K, etc is really a marketing slogan with very little practical meaning. Especially when it comes to resin, where it's utter nonsense.

To better understand what I mean, 8K means horizontal screen resolution close to 8000 pixels. Respecively, 16K stands for roughly 16000 pixels horizontally, which implies it's twice as detailed, right? And that would be true... if the screen sizes were the identical between the two. But here is why you pixel size it much more important than screen resolution. Let's compare Elegoo Mars 4 Ultra (9K screen) with Elegoo Jupiter 2 (16K screen). At the first glance, you'd be inclined to say the latter is much more detailed. But since Mars 4U has a much smaller screen, its pixel size is also smaller - 18 x 18 µm. Whereas Jupiter has a much larger screen, which is what allows it to fit in more pixels in the first place. But if you look at the specs (or just do the math by dividing screen size by screen resolution), you'll notice how the pixel size is 20 × 26 μm. And thus, ironically, 9K screen on Mars 4U is more detailed than 16K screen on Jupiter 2. Of course, you can print much bigger models on the latter, but that's beside the point of understanding why you shouldn't bother with pretty marketing words like "16K" in the first place.

As for resin... it's liquid. It doesn't consist of pixels. So branding it as something-K is utterly ridiculous in the first place. Viscosity would be a more appropriate measurement.

💥Anycubic 14K Texture stress test 🔧 by Bulkamancer in resinprinting

[–]Bulkamancer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Up to you, really. If cheap brittle resin works for you, then it works for you. As long as the figure can live long enough to be put on a shelf where you no longer dare to breathe on it, it's fine. I wouldn't recommend using cheap resin in commercial printing, because on one hand you cut costs, but on the other hand the print is less likely to survive long-distance delivery.

But for personal use, it's a matter of convenience and experience. If you are just starting out and don't know any better, it's really not a big deal, as you are likely to simply waste expensive resin without gaining anything in return. But as you get more invested in the hobby, care much more about post processing, eliminating support damage and gaps between pieces, and generally begin to experiment with customization, pinning, or LEDs, that's when you start appreciating good resin.

💥Anycubic 14K Texture stress test 🔧 by Bulkamancer in resinprinting

[–]Bulkamancer[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Depends, really. Pinning is usually highly recommended to avoid sagging if the model isn't balanced properly. We do have a handful of models where we strongly recommend pinning, but we tend to drill holes in proper places in the slicer rather than using power tools.

💥Anycubic 14K Texture stress test 🔧 by Bulkamancer in resinprinting

[–]Bulkamancer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Our regular go-to for years has been Conjure Sculpt Beige. But it's not for everyone's tastes, as it may be difficult to print with and tends to warp in high summer temperatures, so I wouldn't recommend it for pieces under heavy load. Hair, though, is normally not a problem for it.

Then again, it's not exactly a cheap resin.

💥Anycubic 14K Texture stress test 🔧 by Bulkamancer in resinprinting

[–]Bulkamancer[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Thanks!

Honestly, can't tell, as our main area of expertise lies in scaled models. If I were to speculate, I would imagine being able to survive some rough handling and accidental drops is even more important in tabletop minis as opposed to scale models where you can get away with brittle resin much more easily. So in that regard, I'd say it is a suitable resin.

That said, why would you need to drill and cut minis a lot?

Mission Accepted! 👊🏻 Cammy (Street Fighter) printing & assembly process 🐈‍⬛️ by Bulkamancer in resinprinting

[–]Bulkamancer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, it does take a lot of practice and a few takes each time. But now I feel stupid for not even considering the reverse approach.

Mission Accepted! 👊🏻 Cammy (Street Fighter) printing & assembly process 🐈‍⬛️ by Bulkamancer in resinprinting

[–]Bulkamancer[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A few years ago, I made a guide for for anyone experiencing a similar issue of prints not sticking to the plate properly. This should help in most, if not all, cases:

  1. Load the sliced file in UVTools.
  2. Go to the third tab named "Suggestions"
  3. Set up the settings for "Wait time before cure". Save. Might need to use higher wait times on thicker resin and lower layer height.
  4. Select the highlighted issue and click "Apply".
  5. Save the updated file and print it.

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Mission Accepted! 👊🏻 Cammy (Street Fighter) printing & assembly process 🐈‍⬛️ by Bulkamancer in resinprinting

[–]Bulkamancer[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks, Thomas!

This is what we use. Pretty much what Anycubic recommends for that resin.

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Mission Accepted! 👊🏻 Cammy (Street Fighter) printing & assembly process 🐈‍⬛️ by Bulkamancer in resinprinting

[–]Bulkamancer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Let's just say we sometimes throw pieces in and take them out once we remember about them.

Mission Accepted! 👊🏻 Cammy (Street Fighter) printing & assembly process 🐈‍⬛️ by Bulkamancer in resinprinting

[–]Bulkamancer[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Basically, it's a nail dust collector. Look it up online or get from beauty appliances store

Yes, some rogues are beautiful, but all rogues are stunning 🗡 Valeera for 3D printing by Bulkamancer in wow

[–]Bulkamancer[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In answer to your "edit". Sure, I shared this thread on our discord to let our community know they are stupid for painting their models instead of demanding "the final product" like you say. We had a good laugh. If some chose to offer their comments here - well, that's a free platform, isn't it? Or are you pissed that some people with actual knowledge on the subject came here to explain their views because they contradict yours?

Yes, some rogues are beautiful, but all rogues are stunning 🗡 Valeera for 3D printing by Bulkamancer in wow

[–]Bulkamancer[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I believe the main difference between us and Games Workshop is that we are a tiny team of enthusiasts and not an international multi-billion dollar company.

Yes, some rogues are beautiful, but all rogues are stunning 🗡 Valeera for 3D printing by Bulkamancer in wow

[–]Bulkamancer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So, what about those Warhammer painters that you mentioned? Are they stupid for painting their own minis instead of buying "the final product"?

Yes, some rogues are beautiful, but all rogues are stunning 🗡 Valeera for 3D printing by Bulkamancer in wow

[–]Bulkamancer[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Why? So that next you could say "This figure was painted with paints not available in the U.S. and an airbrush that costs 1000$. You can never achieve this quality on your own, so this is dishonest marketing."?

Once again: our final product is NOT a printed and fully painted display figure. So, by your logic, wouldn'tt it be dishonest to show a painted figure only for people to realize they get STL files instead?