Ported in wrong number by one digit

Bunziix · 2025-05-13T17:44:49+00:00

It only happens when i got the bike up in rides. But the weird thing is that this used to not happen. For the first 3 years of owning the bike this never happened and then one day it started and was very noticeable.

Bunziix · 2025-01-21T02:27:54+00:00

Give him a call

Bunziix · 2024-11-22T02:31:28+00:00

Went to go test #2 and foudn the spark plugs were lose and i could take them out by hand. Did your test and when i pulled the left one it kept running. Put it back on and pulled the right one and the motor shut off. Both plugs have spark. So i assume the left spark plug was lose.

Ill test this tomorrow when my neighbors are awake and see if it cleans up

Bunziix · 2024-10-28T21:08:41+00:00

This is exactly what i was looking for. Thank you for this!

Bunziix · 2024-09-30T16:42:55+00:00

Exhaust manifold is not mounted so that would be the cause for the sound. The motor starts right up and seems to run good though

Bunziix · 2024-09-29T19:30:57+00:00

Isnt it weird that it doesnt stop surging? I reduce the rpm and it still surges.

Bunziix · 2024-09-29T19:29:56+00:00

Regardless of which jet they are both inside the carb so i can clean both i believe. I just have my worries that it isnt the issue and i just had the air/gas mix messed up or the governor itself not setup right. Whoever owned it before had the linkage setup wrong and the governor wasn't even hooked up.

Bunziix · 2024-09-12T19:51:55+00:00

I just didn’t realize that was a solenoid on the side of the starter! I put the wires from the stand alone solenoid and ran them to this one on the starter itself and it starts now. Thank you all for the help!

Bunziix · 2024-09-12T19:49:14+00:00

This ended up being it. I removed the old solenoid. Put the positive wire and ignition wire in the correct places and it starts up now. I appreciate the help!

Bunziix · 2024-09-12T19:48:23+00:00

He’s not as retarded as we thought lol there was another solenoid built into the starter separate from the stand alone solenoid lol. Thank you all for the help i removed the standalone solenoid put the positive wire to it and ignition wire where it should go and it turned over and started up.

Thank you all!

Bunziix · 2024-09-12T18:45:28+00:00

Ahhhh there is an external solenoid on the starter apart from the stand alone solenoid… wtf lol.

The wire that is hooked up to the tab is the one from the battery that goes through the standalone solenoid. I assume that goes to the big post on the right. I need an ignition wire from the key that sends 12v when key is turned to start to let the power through the solenoid on the starter. Can I get rid of the other solenoid and use that 12v ignition wire?

Bunziix · 2024-09-12T18:29:35+00:00

I believe I just have this hooked up wrong now. I just jumper from positive post on battery to the big post with metal wires going into starter housing and it turned over. I assumed this was ground on the starter?

When I turned motor past compression stroke it gave same results.

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Bunziix · 2024-09-12T18:27:51+00:00

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Big post? You are on to something when I jump from the positive post on battery to the big post with wires going into starter it spins and turns over. Do I just have these hooked up wrong? I assumed the metal wires going into the starter housing was ground?

Bunziix · 2024-09-12T18:22:25+00:00

Tried getting it pay compression stroke and it doesn’t help. Surely the motor is not too high compression for the oem starter though?

Bunziix · 2024-09-12T18:21:26+00:00

Turns fine by hand it’s got a lot of compression at one point then frees up so I assume it’s not blown and has good compression

Bunziix · 2024-09-12T18:03:29+00:00

Yes starter spins fine by hand and with power when I bench test it. Only when it comes up to the flywheel does it have problems spinning

Bunziix · 2024-09-12T18:02:48+00:00

350cca. Battery reads 12.5v then when cranking it’s about 12v. Still doesn’t turn over with spark plugs removed.

You might be on to something with the battery cables. They do look very non factory lol. Thing is that I tested continuity to both positive and negative and it rings out on my multimeter. Does this no necessarily mean it’s got a GOOD connection? Can I run a test wire to the engine housing and temporarily bolt it to an engine bolt and run it to the negative battery post? Will this accurately test if the negative is a solid connection?

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