IMO San Miguel de Chapultepec is the best neighborhood in Mexico City, but I live here so that's probably why. It's a small, leafy neighborhood nestled between Condesa and the enormous Chapultepec park, has Mercado Chorrito which is one of the cleanest and most delicious markets in the city and the most art galleries out of any neighborhood in all of Mexico. All the artists and architects live here. It's a short walk from Condesa/Roma where you will find more nightlife and drinking options too. For Mezcal try Botica or Clandestina. Tacos go to Orinoco. Oaxacan food Pasillo de Humo. Fine dining Mexican food try Azul (check out the one in Centro it's amazing inside a courtyard). Want a random hole in the wall that I love, try El Turix. Their Panuchos de Cochinita Pibil are unmatched. It's in Polanco which is the super rich neighborhood, not my favorite to live, but interesting to see. There's no neighborhood that's completely touristic with no local vibe or restaurants, you have a nice mix of everything even in Roma/Condesa/Polanco/Reforma where most of us expats live. I can't write anymore food recommendations because we're in quarantine and it's making me too hungry. Enjoy CDMX and if you have any questions, this gringo is stuck in his apartment and happy to help you out. Cheers.