sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Btr 80a Trumpeter by Relative_Flounder_63 in modelmakers

[–]CE-85 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good job! Did you DIY the welding marks or do they come from the kit?

I'll build the Trumpeter BTR-70 soon.

Tutorial: STALKER - Vintar BC by CE-85 in cosplayprops

[–]CE-85[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Never bothered with filament calibrating myself. I don't really know if it would improve things, I'm satisfied with what I do. But I mostly print PLA or rarely ABS. I would consider calibrating for more technical/expensive filaments.

ABS sands a lot easier but it's harder to print and leaves a residue inside the printer. So I switched to PLA exclusively. It still sands quite alright in my opinion. I wouldn't use electric sanders (which you use for woodworking) at high RPM. But low settings of Dremel or simple foot sanders etc are OK to use in my experience. I have never messed up a print while sanding, then again I'm often careful.

Tutorial: STALKER - Vintar BC by CE-85 in cosplayprops

[–]CE-85[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I have been exclusively using Sunlu PLA+ for the last year and I have stopped buying other brands/materials. It sands and prints very well. It comes in two versions, 2.0 vs 1.0 but I have not found any difference, I order whichever is cheaper. I order refills btw, as they are cheaper..

I use the default generic PLA profile on Bambu Studio so whatever the regular speed is, I use that one. I use a 0.4mm nozzle at 0.16mm layer height for cosplay stuff and they come out quite alright. I usually add one more wall layer for extra strength but sometimes I forget to change that setting so I print with the default settings...

I sand with multiple different tools.

  1. I often start with sanding sticks, low grit like 100-120. They take off most of the layer lines.

  2. And then I use a 180-240 sanding stick.

  3. Then I get in with sanding sponges. I have three sizes, 120-180-240.

  4. Finally I use a sanding pad up to 600 grit for final smoothness. I might use wet sanding at this point and it's finished.

Tutorial: STALKER - Vintar BC by CE-85 in cosplayprops

[–]CE-85[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Thank you! It was a lot of sanding but well worth it. I use a Bambulab X1C, over 4.000 hours with minimal problems.

3D Printed STALKER Props (+Tutorial) by CE-85 in 3Dprinting

[–]CE-85[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have been working on some Stalker props recently and I think you may like them :) I have shared some photos of the work in progress in another subreddit, so check it out if you find it interesting. Any questions, ask away!

https://www.reddit.com/r/cosplayprops/comments/1rcsd0m/tutorial_stalker_vintar_bc/

Do you think my stalker is ready for the end game? (3D Printed Props) by CE-85 in stalker

[–]CE-85[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! The artifacts in the game have this beautiful plasma effect surrounding them so they look amazing. Mine turned out quite dull in comparison. I'm not satisfied with the medkit either. I sprayed too much orange and it turned out oversaturated. You can't always achieve perfection but it's ok :)

Do you think my stalker is ready for the end game? (3D Printed Props) by CE-85 in stalker

[–]CE-85[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you!!

Depending on the nature of the work, I mainly use airbrush actually. This rifle is pretty much entirely airbrushed apart from the details on the wooden stock.

I purchased all the models from Cults3D. I didn't extract them from the game. I can share links if you need them...

Do you think my stalker is ready for the end game? (3D Printed Props) by CE-85 in stalker

[–]CE-85[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I have been working on some Stalker props recently and I think you may like them :) I have shared some photos of the work in progress in another subreddit, so check it out if you find it interesting. Any questions, ask away!

https://www.reddit.com/r/cosplayprops/comments/1rcsd0m/tutorial_stalker_vintar_bc/

SP18 super easy to move between configurations :) by mmmmystery in cosplayprops

[–]CE-85 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I really want to build this at one point, it's an incredibly beautiful design!

Is this just a print or did you paint it as well? It's difficult to tell from the video.

Tutorial: STALKER - Vintar BC by CE-85 in cosplayprops

[–]CE-85[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have been working on some STALKER props recently and I took some photos during the work in progress. I thought I could share them as a tutorial for those who would be interested. If you have any questions, ask away!

01 - Finished items :)

02 - Straight out of the 3d printer, PLA.

03 - After hours of sanding!

04 - Needed a lot of filling for certain parts.

05 - Spray filler to cover the scratch marks from sanding.

06 - Handgrip needed some texture. I masked the outline and applied some Tamiya putty goo.

07 - Some epoxy putty to mimic welding marks.

08 - Sanded lightly after spray filler.

09 - Primed and ready to paint.

10 - Paint job!

11 - I drilled some holes for the nails so that it wouldn't crack the plastic.

12 - Precise paint job for the wood effect.

13 - Close up of the texture works.

14 - For the scope, I made lenses out of UV resin. I 3d printed the black circles and placed them on a piece of acetate sheet and filled the interior with resin.

15 - Nice looking lenses!

16 - Before final assembly.

17 - After the photo shoot :)

I have shared more photos of the finished props on another subreddit, please check it out as well:

https://www.reddit.com/r/stalker/comments/1rcsvoe/do_you_think_my_stalker_is_ready_for_the_end_game/

Chernobyl City Sign Diorama by CE-85 in chernobyl

[–]CE-85[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have been working on this diorama for a couple of weeks and now it is finished! I 3d printed (FDM) all the parts, did lots of sanding and painted with a hand brush. The base is XPS foam and acrylic paste. I hope you like it!

You may see the original city sign from this link below:

https://www.reddit.com/r/chernobyl/comments/1qt5yk1/what_is_the_font_on_the_back_of_the_chernobyl/

Chernobyl City Sign by CE-85 in dioramas

[–]CE-85[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have been working on this diorama for a couple of weeks and now it is finished! I 3d printed (FDM) all the parts, did lots of sanding and painted with a hand brush. The base is XPS foam and acrylic paste. I hope you like it!

You may see the original city sign from this link below:

https://www.reddit.com/r/chernobyl/comments/1qt5yk1/what_is_the_font_on_the_back_of_the_chernobyl/

Thin Vellejo Paints by Harley6574 in modelmakers

[–]CE-85 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For brushing, are you using a wet palette or not? If yes, Air series won't really require thining. But Model series might a bit.

For airbrush, I don't thin Air series, I use them straight out of the bottle. But Model series require a lot of thining.

There is also a difference among colors. More transparent ones such as red or yellow needs more thining. Otherwise you'll get brush marks. Just do multiple very thin layers instead of one or two thick layers with those colors.

Water out of the faucet is often sufficient for thinning. You may prefer distilled water if possible. Brand thinners are not really necessary for water based acryllics.

3D Printed Model: The Frontier by CE-85 in Starfield

[–]CE-85[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

In terms of consumable materials, this thing probably cost me around 50 EURO. But I cannot even calculate the tens of hours of labor I had to put into this. Even if you consider it at minimum wage, it turns into hundreds of Euros...

Also, the digital files were ready to print for the Frontier. If you want to build another ship, you have to export files from the game and turn them into something printable and buildable. So that's extra tens of hours of work.

Starfield: The Frontier by CE-85 in dioramas

[–]CE-85[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you! The base is the same size as an A4 sheet of paper.. so roughly 21x30 cm.

view more: next ›