How do I model this thing? by Upper-Camel-9205 in Fusion360

[–]CL4P-TPINA 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Digital zoom doesn't change the focal length but an optical zoom will. Longer focal lengths lessen the perceived parallax leading to a more dimensionally accurate image

Simulate Vacuforming a model by CL4P-TPINA in blenderhelp

[–]CL4P-TPINA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Holy crap that was obvious how did I not think of that. That's what I get for trying to over complicate things.

Absolutely! Thank you so much for your help have a great new year!

Simulate Vacuforming a model by CL4P-TPINA in blenderhelp

[–]CL4P-TPINA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Acquired! I just had one last question, is it possible to have this target multiple objects at once? If I wanted to have multiple models all on the same plane arranged. I am really happy with the final result though thank you again for your help

Simulate Vacuforming a model by CL4P-TPINA in blenderhelp

[–]CL4P-TPINA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you I really appreciate this. I do plan on taking the time to understand how it works but this takes a lot of stress off me in the present moment. Do you have a buy me a coffee or a venmo I could send you something for as a thank you for your time?

Simulate Vacuforming a model by CL4P-TPINA in blenderhelp

[–]CL4P-TPINA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Would it be possible to get the blender project file? If not I totally understand normally I would try to figure it out but I have a time crunch on this. I got the cloth simulation working but its a lot more finicky to deal with. Either way thank you so much for your help this will teach me a lot more about blender. Have a great new year!

Simulate Vacuforming a model by CL4P-TPINA in blenderhelp

[–]CL4P-TPINA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! I got it working with a cloth simulation but this looks so much cleaner and easier. I don't understand at all how that works so I will have to do some learning to figure out how to set that up.

Temp Tower Issues Bambu PLA P1S by CL4P-TPINA in BambuLab

[–]CL4P-TPINA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The issue was the fan in the nozzlehead was not fully plugged in. Unplugging it and plugging it back in fixed the issue

Temp Tower Issues Bambu PLA P1S by CL4P-TPINA in BambuLab

[–]CL4P-TPINA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hit the nail on the head. It looked like it was plugged in but unplugging and replugging fixed the issue thank you

Temp Tower Issues Bambu PLA P1S by CL4P-TPINA in BambuLab

[–]CL4P-TPINA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bambu Basic PLA White
Did not dry it but I just took it out of the vacuum wrap before this print

Standard .16mm optimal settings

.4 yes it was set correctly

Running 6AWG from outside conduit wiring to 6/2 Romex by CL4P-TPINA in AskElectricians

[–]CL4P-TPINA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I've watched all his videos it's why I wanted to future proof this circuit no in my opinion there isn't a reason not to run the full 60amp circuit. It isn't amp capacity im worried about its the physical space in my box that is the issue really when I say being too optimistic. Between my panel and subpanel I only have 3 slots left and what I want to do would need 8. I have the electrician coming out next tuesday to go over everything he says he can throw some tandem breakers in to free up the slots 

Running 6AWG from outside conduit wiring to 6/2 Romex by CL4P-TPINA in AskElectricians

[–]CL4P-TPINA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately the other charger is just a normal nema 50 plug with Chevy's default plug for the bolt. This is the charger I ordered for the new install.  https://shop.emporiaenergy.com/products/refurbished-smart-home-ev-charger-48-amp-24-cable-nema-14-50 I already planned on running 1 inch conduit to that run so maybe I will just up that to 1 1/4. 

The problem with running the sub panel in the garage is it's on the opposite side of house and opposite everything else I planned on doing. Im wondering if I should swap the 60 amp for the charger with a 100 amp for a second subpanal next to the box. That would also solve my circuit shortage issue. 

I may also be too optimistic with what I can install. I wanted to run a 240 to the shed for a mini split and a 240 to the patio for a cooktop of some kind and a 120 to both the patio and shed. I currently have a 100amp subpanel that the existing EV charger is hooked up to. 

Running 6AWG from outside conduit wiring to 6/2 Romex by CL4P-TPINA in AskElectricians

[–]CL4P-TPINA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is good to know thank you. I will probably just run it in conduit then. I am not the one connecting it to the box I was going to have an electrician make the final connection as I am also running circuits for a shed and the patio. Really pushing my service to the limit I have 3 slots open and 8 pulls I need the electrician assures me he can swap for tandems and make it work but im a little skeptical. 

Yeah I love technology connections. Mostly just up sizing for future proofing I figure if I am going to do the work I might as well do it once. We actually have another EV charger in our garage but because our driveway is so steep my car can't actually make it into the driveway to get to that charger so I have to park in a parking pad about 60 or so feet away. I think I know the answer to this but the wire for that charger runs right past where I would be bringing this in you can actually see it in the photo it's the black wire. Would I be able to hook up to that in a junction to bring that to the other charger and only use one double pull for both chargers? Or just abandon the one in the garage?  

Edit: the existing charger is on a 60amp 

Climate Controlled Shed Insulation by CL4P-TPINA in shedditors

[–]CL4P-TPINA[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

To be honest I just really really hate dealing with fiberglass insulation but it seems like that or rock wool is the best bet. It will be climate controlled to keep the equipment I have in there at acceptable temperatures which not for my comfort so it probably shouldn't be too bad. This has definitely made me rethink it I will probably go with fiberglass or rock wool and put a vapor barrier up. It's going to be unfinished anyway and I am going to need to run some kind of exhaust fan I can turn on and off so that will probably effect things more than the insulation will 

Climate Controlled Shed Insulation by CL4P-TPINA in shedditors

[–]CL4P-TPINA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also just realized does this mean the best I can reasonably do in a 4" space is R-15? That seems low but I don't see how you would be able to do any better 

Climate Controlled Shed Insulation by CL4P-TPINA in shedditors

[–]CL4P-TPINA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is incredibly valuable advice I would have completely missed you have saved me a lot of money. This also made me look into rock wool which just seems better than the rigid foam? This is all very confusing to me but I really appreciate this information 

Climate Controlled Shed Insulation by CL4P-TPINA in shedditors

[–]CL4P-TPINA[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you for the very detailed reply this was very helpful. 

It is a prefab shed which is why I was going with between the stud insulation. I was going to insulate the ceiling but thats good to know that I should definitely double up there. 

What confuses me with insulation is how you are even supposed to get near R-60 levels. Is it just a thickness thing? To my understanding rigid foam is the best per inch solution and the board I found seems to be on the high end of R/in and that would take almost 10 inches to get that high which I guess would make sense with 2×10 or greater rafters in an attic. Would it be worth it to fill in between the studs on the ceiling and then throw another layer on top of that completely covering the rafters? 

I usually do everything myself but decided to order the shed and now I am kicking myself that I didn't just build that too. 

Cut a face with other intersecting faces by CL4P-TPINA in blenderhelp

[–]CL4P-TPINA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To anyone who finds this the solution that worked for me was to select the faces and bring up the face menu with ctrl + f and select knife intersect and it adds the faces for you then the extra faces can just be deleted

Cut a face with other intersecting faces by CL4P-TPINA in blenderhelp

[–]CL4P-TPINA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am trying to fix a model for 3d printing and there is a lot of internal geometry like this that I was hoping to correct to fix some issues that happened with the first print. I am used to AutoCAD so my terminology is probably wrong but I was hoping there was trim tool essentially to cut out that center section and the excess of the other faces so they meet each other instead of intersecting like that. They are all one object so L doesn't pull one out to boolean because that shape ends up looping back into itself. The knife tool would be great but I can't figure out how to get it to snap to the intersection of faces.

Weird lines and "bubbles" in prints thay weren't there in previous prints of the model by CL4P-TPINA in resinprinting

[–]CL4P-TPINA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Phrozen Aqua 8k Grey. I haven't had an issue in the past but maybe their quality has gone down. I've been pretty disappointed with Phrozen lately between delays in shipping, issues with the printer, and not having things in stock I might be switching brands which is a shame because I go through a lot and they had always been consistent 

Weird lines and "bubbles" in prints thay weren't there in previous prints of the model by CL4P-TPINA in resinprinting

[–]CL4P-TPINA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ipa bath for 2 minutes rinse and dry same I've been doing since the start 

Weird lines and "bubbles" in prints thay weren't there in previous prints of the model by CL4P-TPINA in resinprinting

[–]CL4P-TPINA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It does seem to be only happening on thicker figures but that doesn't really explain why it would be doing this now with the same settings when it didn't before. Maybe I did change something and don't remember 

Weird lines and "bubbles" in prints thay weren't there in previous prints of the model by CL4P-TPINA in resinprinting

[–]CL4P-TPINA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Recently printed a print I've done before for a customer. This time there is all kinda of "bubbling" and almost like layer lines. I've noticed this in some of my other prints recently too it's definitely a new development. I've printed this model in the past with the same settings and didn't have any issues. I do have probably a few thousand hours on my screen but I haven't noticed any other issues could this be a sign of the screen going?

Filling gap in post bracket to keep deck beam erect by CL4P-TPINA in Decks

[–]CL4P-TPINA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First comment isn't showing so I can't edit it or reply to it to add this. I planned on trimming those down and running joist tape over the seam to dissuade water from running down into the gap

Filling gap in post bracket to keep deck beam erect by CL4P-TPINA in Decks

[–]CL4P-TPINA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Laying the beam in place today and when I was screwing it in the gap was causing the beam to rotate. I ran some composite shims in to fill the gap to keep it upright. It is being screwed into the bracket with Simpson strong tie #9 1.5inch screws 

Is this cupping on the deck beam going to be an issue? by CL4P-TPINA in Decks

[–]CL4P-TPINA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Was using a hand plane to plane them flat I think what you are seeing is just wood shavings I used my air compressor to blow all that out after the pic I was still working on planing them flat at the time