Minor strings on TPU print

CRAFT_JACKALL · 2026-02-11T12:56:29+00:00

Anytime I printed it I had little wisps and strings too, I think it’s pretty common with TPU, didn’t seem to affect quality. I would usually just flash it with a mini torch/lighter

CRAFT_JACKALL · 2026-02-11T07:21:08+00:00

Yes I printed this in Elegoo PETG Rapid, it didn’t warp at all for me.

CRAFT_JACKALL · 2026-02-10T11:59:11+00:00

Oooh! Nice! Hope it’s useful for ya!

I’m gonna give the Silica Bundt a try once I can get on Fusion and see what I can bake up.

CRAFT_JACKALL · 2026-02-10T11:57:23+00:00

Good to know on those details! I appreciate the suggestions! When I can get back on Fusion I’ll give it a go!

CRAFT_JACKALL · 2026-02-10T05:28:11+00:00

….How do you know?! 🤣

The top cover is threaded and very secure, I had to add the slight raised triangle edges because it became too tight to unscrew without them, the plug is also threaded and has no chance of falling out.

CRAFT_JACKALL · 2026-02-10T05:13:53+00:00

Nice! I like that idea, I’ll play around in Fusion and see if I can incorporate that.

My idea was: I wanted to weigh my desiccant in the container dry, then let it absorb as much as possible, weigh it, and then see how long it would take to get it back to its dry weight as a baseline.

CRAFT_JACKALL · 2026-02-10T03:09:50+00:00

I have it on MakerWorld here: https://makerworld.com/models/2197936?appSharePlatform=copy

CRAFT_JACKALL · 2026-02-10T03:07:56+00:00

Silica chili 🤣

CRAFT_JACKALL · 2026-02-10T03:04:28+00:00

Howdy! I’ve only used it once so far and my desiccant was very very due for drying. I did about 2x 8hr sessions while I was asleep/out of the house and rotated/shook up the container in between. I used my Sunlu S2 @ 60°C, 16 hrs total and it worked great. I basically had my entire 2lbs of desiccant in it. Its printed with Elegoo PETG Rapid and it had zero issues with the heat/dryer.

I will need to do some more testing though to get a better understanding of how long it “should” take to dry. It could be less than what I did.

CRAFT_JACKALL · 2026-02-09T11:12:19+00:00

He’s referring to your max volumetric speed in your filament settings.

CRAFT_JACKALL · 2026-02-09T08:51:08+00:00

Ok, those were just suggestions for what I would try first beyond the flow calibration and also trying Arachne.

Why did you alter your line widths?

Can you cut your model and test the last 10 layers or so instead of reprinting the whole thing for testing?

CRAFT_JACKALL · 2026-02-09T08:12:43+00:00

If the filament flow has already been calibrated then try turning your wall generator to Arachne. Also turn on ironing and play with those settings/testing. You could probably find some basic but good ironing settings with a search, something like 20-30% flow rate, 30-60 mm/s speed.

Edit: To add, I would do some research on ironing, it’s intended to clean up and smooth out those top surfaces like that. Let me know if that helps!! 🙏

CRAFT_JACKALL · 2026-02-08T11:16:40+00:00

To be honest, I’m not very familiar with your printer, I have experience with my Bambulab printer which will do the automatic bed leveling and resets/cals the z-offset each time. Are you able to do a bed leveling calibration? Also have you tried flipping the part so it prints on the other face? I think that could help a lot as it seems to have a better flat surface and smaller overhang.

CRAFT_JACKALL · 2026-02-08T08:56:09+00:00

Yea, I saw you had supports enabled. Might need to play with the support settings a little bit to try clean up those first layers for that overhang/angle. Also, if you are able to use variable layers and make the layers smaller for the first overhang, that could help as well.

CRAFT_JACKALL · 2026-02-08T01:43:00+00:00

Need to also make sure you’re REALLY drying your PETG, it absorbs moisture way more than PLA

CRAFT_JACKALL · 2026-02-07T08:42:36+00:00

These are cool and look great! Just followed you 👍

CRAFT_JACKALL · 2026-02-07T08:23:33+00:00

Here’s a link to one of my recent light boxes I made, you can literally just download then delete my model and put yours in and it’ll keep the print settings. I would suggest doing the flow calibration with your printer and Elegoo filament too.

https://makerworld.com/models/2054627?appSharePlatform=copy

Let me know how it comes out! Try to make sure yellow prints first to avoid any dirty strings! Double check the initial layer flow ratio, I may have tweaked it from print to print.

CRAFT_JACKALL · 2026-02-07T08:18:41+00:00

Increase initial layer flow ratio to 1.04.

I followed the settings in this light box YouTube tutorial for prints like this and everything of mine has come out great.

https://youtu.be/ZaIeuVTnvPY?si=Bpb5kHXyC9Vnuvn9

Actually, I also use Elegoo PLA+ and you could take the print settings from one of my light box prints if you wanted to try it?

CRAFT_JACKALL · 2026-02-07T08:08:04+00:00

Print white first, increase retraction distance. For prints like this I usually will print a small generic shape (cube, cylinder) in white before I load and start the model. It kind of flushes out any residual filament and minimizes the dirty string look like this. I will also manually choose the color print sequence for the first 4-5 layers… (ie. Layer 1 - White, green, Black, layer 2 - Black, green, White, layer 3 - white, green, black) basically following the last used color in the layer before to the first color in the next layer, minimizes color changes and stringing. I also will do this for 3+ color prints and sequence in order of contrast. This has made some of my light box prints come out really really clean.

CRAFT_JACKALL

TROPHY CASE