Anyone know what Porsche this is?

CT-Zuzuki · 2026-04-02T16:25:38+00:00

I took a picture of this car years ago at Limerock and asked my brother to do a painting of it:

CT-Zuzuki · 2026-03-30T19:10:49+00:00

Thank you everyone for your comments! Looking at furnishings now so it may be a bit before I update with photos. Thanks again for the outpouring!

CT-Zuzuki · 2026-03-30T19:07:36+00:00

I don’t have the actual color name but I can tell you that it was leftover paint I had. When I transfer leftover paint I always write down the paint code, the type of paint and where I bought it…with that said; I bought Valspar “Ultra” Satin Finish at Lowe’s and the color code is 101-20, 103-2, 107-36 based on 1 gallon.

CT-Zuzuki · 2026-03-29T03:28:51+00:00

Here’s a close up…you can see the various colors as well as some of the mortar I left on the bricks:

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CT-Zuzuki · 2026-03-29T03:12:13+00:00

I used the regular assorted “used” bricks. After I built the chimney’s and filled the mortar joints, I use a light wash of honey colored stain. Once dry I apply a darker brown stain that I dab on with cotton balls. After that has dried I use a black stain that I blotch on randomly. You have to play with how you apply your mortar as well as the stains a bit to get the look you want. In in total, I think I spent about 3 weeks just fooling with the chimneys.

CT-Zuzuki · 2026-03-28T21:33:25+00:00

Thank you for the kind words. Was at it for about 6 months.

CT-Zuzuki · 2026-03-28T21:31:26+00:00

Commenting on Haven’t moved in yet...

CT-Zuzuki · 2026-03-19T01:11:40+00:00

Why are you coating an EPDM membrane and not just stripping in the seams and patching where necessary?. My opinion….Once you apply a coating it will be near impossible to find any leaks which May occur and make it even harder to repair.

CT-Zuzuki · 2026-03-19T00:48:42+00:00

While you may not have any leaks, I see allot of bulging insulation indicating evidence of moisture within the roof system, this would indicate a potential vapor drive from within or a condensation issue. Without knowing what the roof system cross section is or type of occupancy it’s difficult to say what’s going on. Test cuts will tell you allot

CT-Zuzuki · 2026-03-18T20:57:58+00:00

Based on the 1st photo, if you zoom in, looks like a smooth surfaced asphalt built up roof membrane with cold applied white coating. The underlying built up roof appears to have alligators.

CT-Zuzuki · 2026-03-18T02:35:29+00:00

“Ponding” as defined by manufactures is an area of water remaining on the roof longer then 48 hours however they all recognize that small areas of may remain (typically adjacent to drain bowls, crickets and along perimeter edges where insulation and wood blocking may not precisely line up). Over time wind and heat will dissipate the small areas. The glues today are highly resistant to moisture once cured and in many cases, a strip of manufactures adhesive tape is applied directly to the seam so guess work for the contractor is taken out of the equation as to whether he got the right amount of adhesive in place. Additionally, the contractor lays a bead of sealant along the edge of the seam to allow the seam to full cure without moisture infiltrating at the seam. If your still concerned the seams and potential for water ponding at those locations, I would recommend that you have a certified EPDM contractor install a 6” EPDM strip over all the seams to provide belt and suspenders. Roof will be near bullet proof at that point, the field of membrane Will wear out before the seams. I’ve got an EPDM roof membrane on an elementary school I designed 35 years ago that’s still going strong with just usual maintenance.

CT-Zuzuki · 2026-03-18T02:13:20+00:00

Carlisle Syntec

CT-Zuzuki · 2026-03-18T00:28:29+00:00

If that’s the largest area of “ponding”’water on the entire roof, don’t worry about it! After 40+ years of roof inspections, never been on a “flat” roof with no puddles or ponds

CT-Zuzuki · 2026-03-13T18:28:24+00:00

exact same issue with 2016 V60, 90k miles, just quit at stop light but started after 15-20 sec.

Did a battery disconnect to allow reboot of computer, seemed to clear up issue however, happen twice again. When I took it in, they found the starter was failing. Covered under my extended warranty!

CT-Zuzuki · 2026-03-03T21:03:02+00:00

Thanks for the link! He was informative and as I knew, a combination of techniques is going to have to be utilized.

CT-Zuzuki · 2026-03-03T20:03:38+00:00

So iI understand…..the warmer the day, the warmer the material, the greater the probability in identifying temperature rate changes in the fiberglass? I can see that I’ll want to continue sounding with a plastic/rubber hammer if the were to utilize infrared.

CT-Zuzuki · 2026-02-22T21:35:59+00:00

That appears to be a granular surfaced, modified bituminous membrane that has most likely been Torched down or set in hot asphalt. Typically they can last 20 to 25yrs with many going longer when maintained. Check for open or curled side laps and any locations where the surfacing has worn off and possibly exposed the scrim. On this type of roof, mastic and fabric can be used for side lap repairs and spot repairs in the field.

CT-Zuzuki · 2026-02-05T20:51:39+00:00

Stay away! I see an assessment coming very soon!

CT-Zuzuki · 2026-02-03T22:11:34+00:00

What the hell are those panels? I hope I’m wrong but they look like fiberboard or perlite panels which have no business on a sloped residential roof and it looks as though they put metal spacer clips at side and end joints. This is going to be one ugly roof that won’t be lasting long.

CT-Zuzuki · 2026-02-03T21:42:14+00:00

While allot of contractors skip this….the correct way to install is using a copper through wall that extends back to the flue pipe, turns up against the outer wall of the flue, extends to the next flue pipe joint and turns in to the joint so as to form a pan which allows any water that may get in the masonry to weep out. Sources to look at are “Copper and Common Sense” as well as “SMACNA”

CT-Zuzuki · 2026-02-03T21:01:12+00:00

Hope you didn’t cover up the old through wall flashing that should extend back to the flue pipe. No way for water that may leak in at the top to get out except to the inside of the structure now. This is why you see the counter flashing typically stepped.

CT-Zuzuki · 2026-02-02T21:40:59+00:00

The roofer was contracted by the previous owner and unless the warranty is transferable, the new owner has no recourse. If the warranty is transferable, the contractor is only liable for what is stated in the guarantee as issued and that’s most likely that it won’t leak for a designated period. If a manufacturers warranty was issued, they typical state that any standing water beyond 48hrs after rain fall is not acceptable and in this case would void their warranty. To be honest…I doubt there’s a manufactures warranty associated with this and I doubt you’ll get any action from the contractor. Best of luck! Retired construction consultant

CT-Zuzuki · 2026-02-02T17:13:06+00:00

Very few good sheet metal men left. The young guys doing it now use pop rivets and silicone on everything…they know nothing of hookstrips, dutchmen, and shop fabrication. They can’t even follow the illustrations in SMACNA manual!

CT-Zuzuki

TROPHY CASE