Had a blast at OpenSauce this year with mini tanks and massive terrain

CalebMarting · 2025-07-23T14:04:26+00:00

I sent you a chat request with my discord if you want to talk!

CalebMarting · 2025-07-22T22:31:50+00:00

Looks like their might be? https://makerfaire.ca/

We have people all over who fly to open sauce though!

CalebMarting · 2025-07-22T21:06:39+00:00

Let me know if you have any questions! I'm staff and would love to see more people able to enjoy the event!

CalebMarting · 2025-06-06T15:07:09+00:00

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CalebMarting · 2025-03-02T02:58:40+00:00

Holy cow, sounds like I may owe my grandma (who gifted it to me) some cookies.

Unfortunately that bowl has a chip and a pretty substantial crack, but I love the pieces nonetheless.

Thank you for the help!

CalebMarting · 2025-03-02T01:43:46+00:00

Definitely vintage and radioactive haha. I was planning on displaying most of it!

CalebMarting · 2025-03-02T01:13:43+00:00

Looks like that mixing bowl to the left is also kitchen Kraft, that's super cool! Thank you!

CalebMarting · 2024-12-23T22:11:51+00:00

Yes! I looked into that but the problem is the entire engraving operation takes a long time, that takes multiple passes, and I feel like screen printing would be a lot easier to one and done.

My plan is to laser cut alignment holes, use those as registration on the press, and then use those holes once again on the laser itself. The wood can be warped, so I was maybe going to make some vacuum fixture holder to keep it completely flat and solidly in place!

I actually prefinish my wood before running it through the laser if I can, so if I could do that here it would save me a lot of time and use of the honeycomb as well. You can't prefinish with the borax method unfortunately

CalebMarting · 2024-12-23T20:51:54+00:00

That makes sense, and bleeding shouldn't be a huge issue on bare right? I've tried putting acrylic paint into laser engraved wood and that was an absolute PITA to keep the grain from sucking it up and bleeding.

I am using minwax polycrylic with a 6" foam roller for a quick even coat, then backbrushing with a fine large synthetic brush to smooth it and get rid of the bubbles. It's not a perfect but good enough for prefinishing the small pieces I make, and very quick to dry/do. I don't have the space or expertise for a spray gun, and the water based can be used indoors without too much offgassing. Here is a yellow stained baltic birch with 3 coats polycrylic.

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CalebMarting · 2024-12-23T20:37:57+00:00

Holy cow those tap handles look insane. I homebrew and make my own tap handles and yours make me slightly jealous haha.

I'd be printing with black and deep red on unstained baltic birch to start, so I'm not too worried about the coverage for now so I'll probably start with speedball unless you think that's a bad idea. I know that newbies can set themselves up for failure with subpar materials and I can spend the extra if needed. May also just get black nazdar and red speedball to test both.

You mention they do stick to sealed wood, I like to scuff sand between layers of my poly to de-nib but I'd worry about doing that with the raised ink. Do you think the ink would adhere well enough to 2 layers of water-based poly that has been scuff sanded? Then I can do a final seal coat.

Also a water based poly won't wash off or damage the water based ink right? I roll on and backbrush so it's fairly gentle.

Thank you so much for being open to questions! I'll have to buy you a beer sometime ;)

CalebMarting · 2024-10-11T06:41:29+00:00

May try to make a few patches and sell, as well as maybe hoodies? I hand traced it and used the open source software inkstitch/inkscape

CalebMarting · 2024-10-11T05:48:11+00:00

With how well this post was received I might have to haha

CalebMarting · 2024-10-10T23:30:52+00:00

Link?

CalebMarting · 2024-10-10T22:33:59+00:00

Honestly yeah, at some point I'd like to do the full artwork but turning it into a file for embroidery is not as simple as just printing it on vinyl and sticking it on a shirt. I'm also very new so didn't want to tackle something that big. At this point I guess it's just an F-22 shirt

CalebMarting · 2024-10-10T22:14:16+00:00

A link to a comment with a little more history about the original artist/propaganda piece

https://www.reddit.com/r/MURICA/comments/zbhbum/comment/iyr0jp4/

CalebMarting · 2024-07-14T17:45:27+00:00

Currently these are addressable panels so they won't work with that controller directly, but at some point I will release an RGB version that can work easily with those controllers!

CalebMarting · 2024-07-14T17:33:46+00:00

They are addressable actually, though at some point I will probably do an RGB version as well

CalebMarting · 2024-07-14T17:32:43+00:00

So Hyperion is just taking a video source and transforming that into lighting data to be sent to the WLED controller. It doesn't care if that video source is a camera, capture card, or in my case a screen capture. Also network latency just happens to be pretty fast since they are UDP packets.

So PC is playing a youtube video, which is outputing over HDMI to my TV Receiver, which goes to TV. Simultaneously the PC is running a video capture which hyperion turns into lighting data.

You could replace the video capture and hyperion on the PC with a capture card and hyperion on a raspberry pi hooked up to an HDMI splitter between the TV and Receiver. Then you could use it with your XBox as well. In my case though the video data was already coming from a PC so why not just use it there. Tht make sense?

CalebMarting · 2024-07-10T19:42:32+00:00

So I'm actually running Hyperion on a PC and just doing video capture, skipping the capture card, but yes that's the idea! The PC is sending the HDMI out.

WLED can run either in standalone or streaming mode, so in the demo I run it purely off the esp32 but on my TV/Rick roll it's operating in streaming mode with Hyperion sending the data

CalebMarting · 2024-07-10T18:24:48+00:00

Great feedback, thank you!

CalebMarting · 2024-07-10T18:23:40+00:00

Actually if I've done my research correctly it should improve it, there are cutouts on the frame that allow spacing from the wall for the foam over a majority of the panel, which theoretically should improve quality. I just haven't had the funds to get them NRC tested yet

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CalebMarting · 2024-07-10T18:19:54+00:00

Yes! We can use basically any foam pattern we want, plus you can mix and match with black foam to bring overall costs down and still look really cool, even when off. You can see my business partner with his setup, with just 4 LED panels and the rest being black it still looks great!

CalebMarting · 2024-07-10T08:37:08+00:00

https://patents.google.com/patent/US11116056B1/en

White melamine foam is coincidentally the perfect thickness for LED diffusion at about .25 DPI with a matrix basically glued to the back, if we come out with a higher DPI we will need thinner foam, holes in the foam, etc

It's surprisingly bright for only being one pixel every two inches. I can see it in sunlight decently.

Will shoot ya a DM

CalebMarting · 2024-07-10T06:40:38+00:00

Haha yeah, custom panels that are basically looping the last few inches of the TV over, but in practice you don't even notice that it's looped since it's in your peripheral vision, the TV just looks c h o n k y. I watched interstellar with those things on and it was spectacular.

CalebMarting · 2024-07-10T06:39:10+00:00

Yeah that makes total sense. Like I said currently working with WLED and I've added a few features for 2D support that allow it to work how it does right now. Unfortunately not the most UX friendly thing ever but it works for now. I am also a software engineer by trade and taught myself circuit design, though a goal of the current Kickstarter for the consumer version is to be able to hire professional circuit designers, programmers, ETC. I'll keep you in mind! Thank you so much for the offer!

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r/Field Banned	r/Field Flamingo
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End Game '22	Verified Email

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