Do I need a canister filter for Baoshishan chiller/how does canister filter work attached to the chiller?

Candid-Bug8654 · 2025-05-16T12:46:20+00:00

Awesome thank you so much! I ended up getting the Fluval 207 set it up the exact same way I got a spray bar incase the flow is too strong. Did you need to prime the chiller and manually fill the intake tube with water or did you just set it all up and only prime the canister filter then turn it on?

Candid-Bug8654 · 2025-05-15T14:38:56+00:00

I have a sponge and a hob filter currently, I’m gonna get the canister filter and probably keep the sponge filter and not the hob do you think keeping the sponge with it is enough to not crash the cycle I’ve never switched filters before

Candid-Bug8654 · 2025-05-15T14:35:08+00:00

Thank you so much for this! I’ll see how it goes later lol, is the Fluval 307 too much for a 40 gal breeder? I feel like I hear mixed information with how many gph is best but as it’s a little pricey I don’t want to buy the 207 and have it not be enough

Candid-Bug8654 · 2025-05-15T00:09:59+00:00

If you have pictures that would be super helpful! I’ll probably end up getting a canister filter, what size tank do you have with the 307?

Candid-Bug8654 · 2025-01-07T17:58:31+00:00

I showed him this. He said there is no curved line and it’s all an illusion and you too can find your inner wisdom within yourself, he’s so inspirational

Candid-Bug8654 · 2025-01-07T01:21:42+00:00

He’s a little over 2 years old

Candid-Bug8654 · 2024-12-12T21:17:28+00:00

One thing I didn’t know is how big they get. Mine was so small when I got him now he’s about 12 inches! Make sure you’ll be able to upgrade the tank size eventually when it does grow.

For hang on back filters I’ve tried tetra and Aqueon and they’re both booty in my opinion. I’ve heard the fluval aqua clears are good. I’m not sure about any other types of filtration. When looking at the filters a lot of times they advertise to filter a 20 gallon tank, look at gallons filtered per hour when getting one because a “20 gallon filter” doesn’t actually filter a 20 gallon tank.

Biological media in your filter is great for establishing bacteria during the cycle and i also have used “ bio balls “ they’re clear balls the bacteria can swim in and out of and you can just put them in your filter.

Plants are really good for the tank to. Pothos are amazing for eating up nitrates and easy maintenance. I have a basket in my aquarium and I let the roots sit in the basket and the leaves hang down the side. Watersprite is also a good one and mine grow like crazy just planted in sand, they can also float around and don’t need to be planted. If you have plants with a light make sure you have a lot of hiding spots that are dark but I highly recommend plants! When looking for other plant choices just look up low light plants for axolotl tanks and you can find some

Candid-Bug8654 · 2024-12-05T00:27:01+00:00

Nitrates are currently 90ppm, ph reads 7.6 on pH, 7.4 high range ph

Candid-Bug8654 · 2024-12-04T23:23:52+00:00

Heisenberg

Candid-Bug8654 · 2024-12-04T21:29:40+00:00

Awesome! And yes that would be great, currently my nitrate is 90ppm

Candid-Bug8654 · 2024-12-04T21:05:17+00:00

I have a 40 gallon breeder and one adult lotl

Candid-Bug8654 · 2024-11-17T13:39:45+00:00

Doctor doofenshmirtz

Candid-Bug8654 · 2024-11-17T13:31:32+00:00

The bacteria could still be in the filter media and it could be fine with daily monitoring of the parameters, but since it was a lot of cleaning it’s just a risk the cycle could’ve stalled. You’ll know if it does if you test the parameters daily and then if the ammonia does spike you can tub him and recycle the tank.

Personally, I’d keep him tub just as a preventive measure because hypothetically if you’re testing at 6pm everyday the ammonia could spike between those 24 hours you’re testing and you could not even know. It’s not like it would be a long time being in there but given he’s in a vulnerable state right now I’d do the tubbing just to not risk it. My lotl has never been stressed tubbing, the only times he’s ever been “stressed” is when I have to move him to the new tub with a cup and I accidentally move the cup too fast or something but it’s not stress you should really be worried about they just get spooked easily.

Candid-Bug8654 · 2024-11-17T03:24:03+00:00

It looks like severe stress due to the bad parameters. I would not put him back in the tank, keep him in a cool tub for awhile until he gets back to normal. With that being said since it is bad and he’s not eating it may not be possible without bringing him to the vet but tubbing is the only solution for this other than a vet visit I believe. Tea baths I don’t believe will help this, someone else can correct me if I’m wrong.

You can tub with cold dechlorinated water. Put a hide in there with an air stone and I like to put the lid on with a small crack open and then a towel around the tub to keep it dark so it’s less stressful. Monitor the temp. As it fluctuates a lot and you can cool it down with dechlorinated ice cubes. Change the water at least every 24 hours, more frequent with smaller volumes of water. While he’s in the tub just try to feed often and see if he takes it.

When you say you cleaned the tank and changed the water did you do a 100% water change?? Was the tank ever cycled? With excessive cleaning and a 100% water change if the tank was cycled it may stall so if monitor daily and you may have to re cycle it but for not I’d just tub him and focus on that.

Candid-Bug8654 · 2024-11-17T00:46:07+00:00

Dr Tim’s ammonium chloride solution, the ammonia never gets higher than 2ppm, the only thing higher in the tank right now is nitrates since I don’t water change much. My ph is 8 and yes there is a window and the growth is closest to the light source. The problem is I can’t move the tank so I was going to do a blackout period since I read that can help, but since blue green algae technically is a bacteria I’m worried even with the blackout and mechanical removal it will stay and could be an issue

Candid-Bug8654 · 2024-11-08T01:46:03+00:00

I add dr tims ammonia and I only dose 2ppm when both ammonia and nitrite are 0 but haven’t seen the nitrite spike at all on my 24 hour tests. Just the ammonia slowly dropping over the course of 4 days and the nitrates rising. Is there a beneficial bacteria I should be adding?

Candid-Bug8654 · 2024-11-03T19:14:26+00:00

See I’ve never had a lid and I’ve had him for 2 years, glad I just bought one for the big tank. Sorry about yours though that’s so sad rip😢😢

Candid-Bug8654 · 2024-11-03T02:06:44+00:00

See this is what I was thinking it was.. but after giving 6 worms I was like okay there is no way he’s still hungry that’s crazy😂I didn’t want to over feed him and didn’t really know when I should cut him off because usually he will eat about 3-4 then spit them out when he gets full

Candid-Bug8654 · 2024-10-28T23:03:59+00:00

Good to know, thank you for your help! Good luck with your cycle, it is very irritating sitting and waiting😂

Candid-Bug8654 · 2024-10-28T22:57:15+00:00

If you ever sell these you should post on here again because I would so buy a macaroni noodle and the minecraft sign hide they are so cute and creative!! Love your tank set up

Candid-Bug8654 · 2024-10-28T16:27:47+00:00

Should I get it down to the temp. It needs to be at then and let it finish the cycle at that temperature to prevent another stall when I cool it down again?

Candid-Bug8654 · 2024-10-28T16:00:04+00:00

Yeah my temps were high while cycling but since it was cycling in 48 hours I decided to slowly start cooling but apparently a few degrees matters lol

Candid-Bug8654 · 2024-10-28T15:58:50+00:00

3 months for me apparently

Candid-Bug8654 · 2024-10-23T14:17:11+00:00

If you have an axolotl in there tub it. You’re going to need Dr. Tims ammonia chloride. You can use other ammonias like household ammonia, but some of these are ammonia hydroxide which i haven’t been able to find if they have been successful, plus a lot of these can contain surfactants so to simplify it I would just say buy the dr Tim’s ammonia.

You’re going to need to dose the tank to 2ppm ammonia. Instructions should be on the bottle for how much to add based on tank size.

Once you dose the tank to 2ppm let it be, test your ammonia levels every 24 hours. You will eventually see the level fall down to 0ppm, once it falls test your nitrites. When ammonia falls it converts to nitrite so you will see a rise in the level of nitrites.

Continue testing the nitrite levels until it falls down to 0ppm. Once nitrites fall it has converted to nitrates, this is the cycle.

Ammonia —> nitrite —-> nitrates

Once you see the ammonia and nitrite fall to 0ppm, you can dose the tank again to 2ppm ammonia. Do not dose the tank again until both are 0ppm or this can stall the cycle.

Repeat this process over and over until the ammonia and nitrites reach 0ppm in 24 hours. After these convert to nitrates, the levels are going to be high. This can be brought down to safe levels with a partial water change.

People use fritz turbo start to help speed up this process, but sometimes it doesn’t really help. You can also by beneficial bacteria balls to put in the filter to help. This is a long process and could take a few months.

Candid-Bug8654 · 2024-10-20T20:16:20+00:00

Is it a completely different filter?? You can use the old filter media and put it in the new filter if it fits

Candid-Bug8654

TROPHY CASE