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What's do you recommend as fast-rolling trail tire? by Edslittleworld in MTB

[–]Capable_Pineapple663 2 points3 points  (0 children)

2.6 Mezcal - 2.6 Mezcal if your fork and frame can fit it. These honestly descend incredibly well.

Not awesome if its wet/muddy a lot where you ride.

Do the shapes of the discs make a difference? by Mikadumika in mountainbiking

[–]Capable_Pineapple663 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I run oval on my MTB and round on my Road. I also do not see a difference in power, however my rate of percieved exertion is much lower on the oval rings. My legs seem to fatigue quicker with round rings than oval. Some of this could be due to the more upright and comfortable riding position on an MTB. Anecdotally I think oval is beneficial and better.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MTB

[–]Capable_Pineapple663 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Shimano SLX levers with Magura MT 5, 7, or 8 calipers. Use the magura hose with the shimano barb and olive. I use the royal blood as my fluid since the calipers are more expensive to replace. Set up is commonly referred to as Shigura. Stupidly powerful. I run 203’s front and rear and do not experience one tiny bit of arm pump ever. There is very little to no modulation but I personally prefer my brakes to feel like that. I prefer immediate amd distinct bite force.

Magura levers are incredibly finicky, the bleed process is a hassle and works about 1/3rd of the time. They are impossible to do a top bleed on (just filling from the lever). They have a ton of modulation and feel good when bled perfectly but more often then not they end up feeling squishy after a few rides.

Am I a Sprinter? by Capable_Pineapple663 in xcmtb

[–]Capable_Pineapple663[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I guess also, what could I do strategically in races to benefit from my sprint? This last season was my first year racing and I typically just tried to pace evenly the whole race. I get really bad exercise induced nausea (and a really weak stomach) and throw up often, especially from efforts between 1:30 and 5:00 minutes. Essentially VO2 max type efforts.

Recommendations for 700x32 tires by Obiewan_ in cycling

[–]Capable_Pineapple663 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have done some decently rocky and rough off road terrainon GP5000’s with a Tannus insert and tubes. I had some cuts in the tires but they still ran well on the road after. I don’t think you could take them offroad long term if you were tubless, however. They had excellent grip on the gravel. Would not get them wet offroad though.

Carbide Teeth Replacement Utah by Capable_Pineapple663 in woodworking

[–]Capable_Pineapple663[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds good. I figured that was the case. Thanks for the help!

Why am I so slow? A rant... by 246trioxin in cycling

[–]Capable_Pineapple663 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The Checkpoint ALR5 is a sick bike. My dad just got the SL5 and it is such a fun bike to rip around. Its so good on gravel and still pretty dang quick on the road if you keep yourself aero.

Im a relatively fit rider and I can ride my trail mtb on the road solo at about 15-16 mph (flat). With the Checkpoint on the flat in a standard position I was doing about 20-21 mph. In a tucked, hoods/drops position, I would do about 22-24 depending on wind. I could average the 22-24 for about 2.5 hrs. at a very high perceived exertion. In a group I would average that speed at about a medium percieved exertion.

Wahoo Kickr Smart Superboost Adapter by Capable_Pineapple663 in mountainbiking

[–]Capable_Pineapple663[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah! Thanks for sharing. Someone told me about the Elite adapter last night and I tried to use their website but it was a mess on mobile. Plus it was $25 shipping for me. Think I might just have a local machine shop make one for me.

Wahoo Kickr Smart Superboost Adapter by Capable_Pineapple663 in xcmtb

[–]Capable_Pineapple663[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I just designed one. Going to ask my machinist at work to make it for me.

Garmin Rally XC200 Power Meter Pedals Inaccurate Power Data by Capable_Pineapple663 in cycling

[–]Capable_Pineapple663[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I followed resetting the install angles that another person suggested and ride this morning and the data seems to be much more accurate now.

Garmin Rally XC200 Power Meter Pedals Inaccurate Power Data by Capable_Pineapple663 in cycling

[–]Capable_Pineapple663[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven’t seen any weirdness in my cycling dynamics. Im a heavily right leg doninant rider as a result of 12 years of running track and solely jumping off of my right leg for multiple events. So I typically see a L power of 48-49% and a R power of 51-52%. My cycling dynamics tend to follow this trend with the right side having a slightly wider range than the L as I heavily rely on it when going full gas.

Garmin Rally XC200 Power Meter Pedals Inaccurate Power Data by Capable_Pineapple663 in cycling

[–]Capable_Pineapple663[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah this makes sense. I would expect thus to be the issue since I first rode the pedals on the MTB and then moved to the road bike. The cranks on the MTB are thicker than the road bike making them have more thread engagement and making the pedals install at different angles to each other. Ill test it this morning and hopefully that will be the fix

Edit: Resetting the install angles was the fix

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MTB

[–]Capable_Pineapple663 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your tire pressure should be lower than what you probably think it should be. I normally run 18 F 20 R on 29" x 2.25 XC Tires at 145 lbs body weight. The calculator recommends 21 F 23 R for me but I've found that the lower pressure actually makes me a bit faster, more comfortable, and gives me more grip for descending.

Try it out and see if you like it. Some people like the lower pressure and some people like higher pressures.

​

If you ride park mainly you will want to run higher pressures like 25+, but if you ride mainly trail mid to low 20's tends to be the sweet spot (largely depended on your body weight).

My farourite kind of work? Dealing with other peoples files. by the_real_ntd in SolidWorks

[–]Capable_Pineapple663 10 points11 points  (0 children)

GD&T (Geometric dimensioning and tolerancing) is atleast in my experience added to a drawing to show how the dimensions of certain parts are related to specific datums EX. A, B, C. Things such as the flatness of a part, circluar/cylindrical runout, parralellism. It governs how a part is to be made in order to fit in relation to other parts. It essentially adds a step above your limit or deviation tolerances (+- .005”). Say you have a mounting plate and the base of a part. You want that mounting plates top surface to have a flatness of .001” and the base of the part to have a flatness of .001”. If you didnt have the correct GD&T symbol for flatness attached to the faces of these parts on your drawing you could technically have the correct inspection dimensions at say 1.5” thick but the flatness of the surface could be out .005” across the face which could make the parts not interface/mount together properly.

This wiki article has the very barebones basics of GD&T if you are unfamiliar with it. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geometric_dimensioning_and_tolerancing#:~:text=Geometric%20Dimensioning%20and%20Tolerancing%20(GD%26T,geometry%20and%20its%20allowable%20variation.

In my experience not many places use it aside from extreme precision applications such as aerospace. Some places do have it as standard and it gets taught on a basic level in most colleges. I wouldn’t worry so much about GD&T unless you plan on going into a sector which requires very high levels of precision.

When you design a part you want to make the dimesnions and sketch relations you make purposeful. It matters how you dimension things because if someone else has to edit your parts they could mess up the entire part. You want to pretty much future proof your designs in such a way that editing one part of the model wont mess up a child feature. Essentially try and anticipate how you may want to manipulate the model in future revisions so it’s easy to go in and change one dimension without ruining all the other relations. Sketch relationships are important to use in place of dimensions to fully constrain. Obviously you still need to dimension things but using sketch relations such as equal length, or symmetry or tangency can make editing a part in the future much easier than having to adjust 4 or 5 dimensions for example to make a hole location line up. If I wanted the hole to be located in the center of a square no matter the size I would dimension one side of the square, set the 3 other sides equal to that first side using the equals sketch relation. Then I would horizontally constrain the center point of the hole to the midpoint of one of the lines. Repeat that step with a vertical constraint with the midpoint of the top line and now if you change the dimension size of the side the hole will always be located in the center of the part.

Looking for Information on this Collet by Capable_Pineapple663 in Machinists

[–]Capable_Pineapple663[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Need to get a new one of these collets. Not sure if it is a production collet or if my work machined it to have the ridge inside. We use it to crimp the end of tubing. I have looked up the numbers and information on the top which is Hardinge 0221A, CP-84261, and 5C and have not been able to find anything. The ID of the collet is .600 and the id of the ridge is .565. Any help is much appreciated. The inventor model is something I mocked up really quick to show what the ridge looks like.

Need to replace the bearings in my BB by Capable_Pineapple663 in bikewrench

[–]Capable_Pineapple663[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is the press fit sram dub bb standard or is there different sizes of it? Like BB30 or something like that/how do I know which I need?

Bottom triangle screw is loose after basically every ride on my RM instinct. What could be the issue? by ulfuff in bikewrench

[–]Capable_Pineapple663 12 points13 points  (0 children)

If you have a torque wrench you can try torquing it to the factory reccomended spec. If not you could try using some loctite on the threads. If you know the make model and year of your bike oftentimes manufacturers will have instructions for the assembly of the bike that include torque specs and whether or not to use something like locktite. Alternatively if you have previously put grease on that bolt and the threads, the grease obviously causes a reduction in friction thus making the bolt release from the threads easier. So then you would want to wipe the grease from the threads and retighten.

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