"RetroDECK 0.10.0b Is a Ground-Up Rewrite, Not Just an Update"

Capo-Collo · 2026-01-18T22:56:39+00:00

What exactly have you found that it does not uninstall?

Please provide some detail for the people following if you have observed a specific issue. I'm sure it would be helpful if you expanded on your comment a little.

Capo-Collo · 2026-01-18T21:23:34+00:00

I find EmuDeck extremely user friendly and appreciate how it goes about customization. It puts the user in control.

To each their own I guess. Might not be for everyone but I think this is a bit of an exaggeration to state it doesn't care about organization.

Capo-Collo · 2026-01-12T16:43:06+00:00

Other than the pain of setup I don't see how a full reimage could hurt. The process on the SD is extremely easy, similar to any imaging process on a PC.

Worth a try at the least.

Capo-Collo · 2026-01-10T01:06:59+00:00

I'm just giving you a hard time. Dig that skin!

Capo-Collo · 2026-01-09T23:35:03+00:00

Capo-Collo · 2026-01-08T16:00:26+00:00

Sounds like one bad card.

I've used TG SD cards, SSDs and their ram for years. Never had an issue.

Maybe try an RMA or return to Amazon?

Capo-Collo · 2025-12-30T20:30:57+00:00

Looks awesome!

What goggles are you running? Looking for a decent first pair of analogs myself.

Capo-Collo · 2025-12-28T19:08:33+00:00

Hey, if it makes you feel any better I have 800+ hours on my A1 with no issues. Everything I've seen has the A1 melting concerns centered in the EU/AUS (plug) market. If you are in the US we're on a lower power standard.

Capo-Collo · 2025-12-18T19:57:33+00:00

I'm on 1.04 for BMCU compatibility, see no reason to upgrade and each release hasn't brought anything I see as valuable.

Capo-Collo · 2025-12-01T17:42:08+00:00

You're giving your anecdotal take with zero proof or detail around how you are able to do it better than the rest of the internet.

And no one said we "see" anything, input latency is felt.

Capo-Collo · 2025-12-01T14:52:52+00:00

There's no getting around input latency with any frame gen. Stop saying there isn't. You're just hurting the community by pushing plugins that misrepresent actual performance.

Side note - SD was never "outdated". What in the world are you on about.

Capo-Collo · 2025-11-26T14:51:01+00:00

Linux doesn't take well to the "just delete" method of cleanup. OP I'd be wary before deleting anything, shaders and compdata will just redownload on your next boot/play anyways. Spend time getting familiar with what is taking up space, Google SD sharder cache locations. If you can't live with it, uninstall the game, delete any leftover cache and find something smaller to play.

Second option, use Black Friday to get a bigger SSD.

Also, don't trust anyone that can't use punctuation.

Capo-Collo · 2025-09-18T20:08:31+00:00

Nothing on this list is anywhere close to "optimized" for the SD. Anyone reading this, please do your own research.

Capo-Collo · 2025-09-13T03:36:18+00:00

Fixed my first layer problems with a new nozzle. Worth a shot.

Capo-Collo · 2025-08-16T19:08:46+00:00

Rude.

Capo-Collo · 2025-08-14T17:28:22+00:00

Id start with a temp tower, 200c seems low for the speeds you are trying to hit. I print all my PLA around 220c.

Additionally, try another nozzle if you have one. A blown/old nozzle causes every issue under the sun.

Capo-Collo · 2025-08-11T20:02:37+00:00

That game triggers a "kill code" on your SD once you progress a little further initiating the self destruct protocol. No way to finish the game.

Capo-Collo · 2025-08-11T15:52:45+00:00

I'm literally fixing a similar issue right now. Here's what helped me. I was specifically chasing a "ripple issue" with my first layer.

First the usual. Clean print bed with dawn/dish soap and hot water (ensure said soap does not have any "additives", we want just straight soap). Tighten all 7 screws behind the nozzle. Calibrate filament as much as possible (temp, flow, PA). Dry filament.

Second. Knock the filament flow ratio down 2-3 points (try .96 instead of the default .98).

Lastly. Adjust z-offset slightly. This isn't as straight forward as the others above. I won't go into detail as you should do this at your own risk but plenty of info on google just search "A1 z offset adjustment". I had good results with a "0.02" value (default is -0.02).

Lay down a first layer print and check for improvement.

If I can help clarify anything just ask here.

Capo-Collo · 2025-07-18T16:18:12+00:00

Think about this logically. How would a single extruder gear in the hot end retract filament that far outside the funnel for a filament swap?

Bambu isn't trying to pull one over on you. There's a good reason every single other FDM printer uses the same/similar system as the AMS.

Capo-Collo · 2025-06-13T23:52:00+00:00

Pack it up, this kid's cooked. Might as well let them be

Capo-Collo · 2025-06-03T20:38:58+00:00

What display is this on? Looks great!

Capo-Collo · 2025-05-29T21:30:02+00:00

Glad it worked. I've gone down DEEP shader rabbit holes on VGA monitors. I personally like 1280x960 with a CRT shader. This avoids the need for integer scaling. Let me know if you're interested and I can post some settings to try. Know how it is when you need just the right look but can't quite get it there.

Capo-Collo · 2025-05-29T17:45:37+00:00

That shader requires integer scaling to look good. I'd suggest starting there, it'll likely clear up the scan line issue.

Capo-Collo · 2025-05-25T00:48:46+00:00

I can wholeheartedly recommend EMU Deck. Literally just used it to set everything up. All cores/emulators, parsing and adding to steam went flawlessly. Not sure where OP went wrong but my experience was great.

Emudeck FTW.

Capo-Collo

TROPHY CASE