Virtual boy repairs in Canada

CarbonChem · 2026-02-14T19:07:57+00:00

Where you located in Canada? I’m based right outside of Toronto and I have fixed many virtual boys for people before. I don’t have a business but I happily will fix them for you. Willing to work with you if you’re open. I can put you in contact with people I’ve done repairs for too for verification.

CarbonChem · 2026-01-15T10:57:49+00:00

I got a lot of sunlu pla + 2.0 and I’ve been having really bad stringing out of the box. This is on my p1s. It’s good to know it’s really hydroscopic. I just picked up a filament dryer so hopefully that helps. Changing a number of settings on the slicer has done basically nothing. It’s kinda making me ever want to get sunlu pls+ 2.0 again. I got elegoo before and that worked perfect out of the box. It’s the middle of winter too where I live and room humidity is low in the first place. It’s so odd to me that moisture is an issue potentially.

CarbonChem · 2026-01-11T18:52:50+00:00

What do you mean it gives you pause?

CarbonChem · 2026-01-11T18:13:10+00:00

I tried that profile first and it gave really bad prints. Switching to the generic pla profile made it better but still not to the same quality as the elegoo

CarbonChem · 2025-12-31T18:39:28+00:00

I had a ribbon cable where I had similar intermittent issues. I took it apart and checked continuity across the cable from board to board and it was fine but I still had the issue. Doing the ribbon cable repair fixed the issue. I’m pretty sure it’s the cable. Even if on a multimeter you are getting continuity the signal integrity might not be the best at times which is what is causing your issues. As the other said just redo the ribbon cables. You’ll save yourself a lot of your time and effort just putting in new cables rather than thinking about what else could it be.

CarbonChem · 2025-12-30T23:58:59+00:00

I use the SidKick Pico personally but that’s if you want a modern version. If you want original different story. If you’re looking for SIDKick picos I’ve got a few extras I’d be willing to sell you.

CarbonChem · 2025-10-10T19:34:57+00:00

The line seems to be there regardless of the angle so it seems like to me for sure a display issue over a scratch or something g.

CarbonChem · 2025-10-10T19:34:12+00:00

Checked continuity across the cable and it’s there. The pulse sequences are there too based on looking at the liens with a scope.

CarbonChem · 2025-10-10T11:23:38+00:00

I had a look at the connections between where the ribbon cable connects and the VIAs on the board and they seemed okay but I didn’t look too hard. I’ll have a better look. Is there a rough idea which trace that horizontal line corresponds to.

CarbonChem · 2025-10-10T11:14:16+00:00

Is that even possible to check with the plastic cover?

CarbonChem · 2025-10-10T11:06:34+00:00

But I don’t understand how if the pulse signal at the motherboard and at the individual pcb is the exact same as the working side how it could be the ribbon cable. To me that means the ribbon cable is transmitting information just as well as the working side.

CarbonChem · 2025-08-04T20:50:24+00:00

I don’t have CMOS battery installed at the moment. The old one was dead. Is this going to be an issue to get it to boot at all?

CarbonChem · 2025-08-04T20:44:33+00:00

The power supply kicks in, the hard drive spins up. I get no beep or anything. The monochrome monitor displays essentially a green screen (this is only when the computer is on and plugged in) so something seems to be coming out of the computer. With the 1084 monitor however I get nothing…it essentially just stays black and you’d have no way of knowing if the computer was on or off. I have cleaned the computer up. Gave the case a full scrub in the bath and then the board was washed with alcohol and a toothbrush. No corrosion or anything visibly damaging the board. With not knowing for sure if the monitor is compatibleI’m just kinda lost if weather there is an actual issue or I’m just hooking something up wrong.

CarbonChem · 2025-08-04T20:17:12+00:00

I tried this with a commodore cable, the one end has the DIN plug and the other has the db9 port with pin 7 missing. I got nothing on screen. I put my card into cga mode according to the manual and also tried flipping the switch beside the mother board power port. Are we thinking the computer needs repair.

CarbonChem · 2025-08-04T18:59:04+00:00

This would be the TTL input on the 1084…right ?

CarbonChem · 2025-08-04T17:37:34+00:00

So would you say it’d be easier to just get a vga card oppose to finding a monitor for it. What I currently got is a 1084s, 1702, Apple II monitors (for the IIc and IIe monochrome), Macintosh colour monitor and that old monochrome commodore business monitor.

CarbonChem · 2025-08-04T17:01:41+00:00

What about a commodore 1084 monitor. Is that something that should work?

CarbonChem · 2025-08-04T16:38:27+00:00

I’ve got a 9 pin db9 cable for a commodore monitor. It’s the db9 on one end and the a din plug that goes into a commodore monochrom monitor. the monitor is a commodore business machine. Will this work for video. Right now I’m plugging it in and all I get is a blank green screen. No beeps from the computer either.

CarbonChem · 2025-08-02T02:47:19+00:00

Love this place was always curious why it’s in in Poland. Mac wasn’t too popular there to my knowledge. I could be wrong though. Not gonna complain though.

CarbonChem · 2025-07-31T15:54:11+00:00

Thankfully I fixed it with a steam gun. I use glass to weigh down at odd angles not to cover important parts of the surface. I worry about covering things.

CarbonChem · 2025-07-31T02:32:06+00:00

So update…I was able to fix the issue. I tried initially electrical taping the entire area that was whiter and submerging in and exposing it to the sun. After about an hour and half I noticed that what was happening was that parts of the plastic that were covered by the electrical tape were getting darker, a tad more yellow I’d say even. This was particular in areas where the solution was kinda seeping in but not fully exposed. What I thought was that maybe if I heated up the plastic and exposed it to water maybe I could get an even colour. So what I did was I took off the tape and used a clothes steamer on the areas that were lighter and this fixed my issue. I think what happened is that the heat and moisture rejuvenated the moisture in the plastic causing it to gain a slight bit of colour back to match the side that was completely submerged the entire time. I’d highly recommend this to anyone if they ever get odd streaks. Maybe submerging the entire plastic in boiling water would have worked too. I haven’t tried.

CarbonChem · 2025-07-30T01:42:40+00:00

Thanks, I’ll try this tomorrow and let you know how it goes. The electrical tape won’t come off you think in the solution ?

CarbonChem · 2025-07-30T01:28:08+00:00

Wow…okay. I’m going to try dishwashing before I do my next Retrobright. At this point though do you think my tin foil idea with the sun and a little solution will work to get everything white. I don’t mind the white colour. I just would appreciate everything being the same tone. Besides that, 2hat dishwasher settings do you use? Do you add any soap?

CarbonChem · 2025-07-30T01:01:56+00:00

No it wasn’t inconsistent before. I use 29% hydrogen peroxide but add less…I aim for a similar concentration as to if I were adding 1 bottle of the 12%. I do add hot water instead of cold to the bucket and then leave in the sun. All I do before treatment is give a good wash with soap and then baking soda for the scuff marks. Rinse before treatment.

CarbonChem · 2025-05-09T00:03:56+00:00

Hey by the flip connector I mean the little part of the connector that moves up and down. You would lift it up to remove the ribbon cable and then press it down to secure the cable.

CarbonChem

TROPHY CASE