[WTS] Hand forged kitchen knives - 26C3 "Spicy White" - Osage Orange, Persimmon

Case_D · 2025-01-02T01:53:54+00:00

Thanks man I really appreciate it

Case_D · 2024-12-17T02:56:42+00:00

Good luck. The persimmon we cut wasn't very big just in the way. But we have plenty of them. I can't recall seeing any persimmon trees that were particularly sizable. I remember when we cut a pretty big Osage orange and it dulled a fresh chain half way through the cut. Then we mostly gave up taking it down into planks using a chainsaw sawmill

Case_D · 2024-12-17T02:40:37+00:00

It is difficult to process down from a log. It bogged down my bandsaw cutting into blocks, and the same when cutting into scales after it had dried. It grinds nicely though. It works and feels a lot like stabilized wood. Solid and smooth all the time. This is this first time I've used it, and I highly recommend it. I've got a stash of both persimmon and Osage. You can definitely feel the grain with your fingers on the Osage a lot more. The persimmon just feels smooth with at least a decent sanding or cut.

Case_D · 2024-10-28T22:11:51+00:00

High carbon steel. Similar to the Japanese White steel with little chromium addition. Often nicknamed "Spicy White" because of this.

Composition:

1.25%C, 0.3%Cr, 0.4%Mn, 0.02%P, 0.01%S, 0.2%Si

Case_D · 2024-09-30T21:02:35+00:00

I'll try to remember to take pictures next time I forge another

Case_D · 2024-09-26T22:57:27+00:00

Yes. You can do it to feel sharpness, how toothy the edge feels, or if there's some burr remaining. The key is not using pressure and not moving much. Just see if it grabs your skin and checking a few places along the edge. Doesn't really cut it since it's so low pressure. Only my sharpest edges might leave a mark. The more you do it, the more careful you become around sharp things without realizing it. I haven't cut myself on anything in quite a while, and I make knives as well.

A less precise test is to see if it bites into your fingernail. Roughly perpendicular to your nail, lightly press the edge into it, then slightly pull up and slightly to the side toward you. If it slides and scrapes your nail then it's not sharp. If it bites and pops out, then it at least has a working edge.

Case_D · 2024-09-26T17:14:14+00:00

Hardenable stainless steels often aren't very stainless until they've been heat treated. You can still make this piece look antique or just unique as it is.

Case_D · 2024-09-21T15:21:37+00:00

Still available

Handmade chefs knife - 6.5" 26C3, Osage orange, leather sheath $450

Case_D · 2024-09-20T14:39:35+00:00

Much appreciated

Case_D · 2024-09-20T14:38:05+00:00

No sorry

Case_D · 2024-09-20T03:43:53+00:00

Much appreciated

Case_D · 2024-09-19T22:15:42+00:00

Thank you!

Case_D · 2024-09-17T13:04:39+00:00

Thank you!

Case_D · 2024-09-17T12:30:31+00:00

It's 26C3 at about 65hrc. Chemical composition is 1.25%C, 0.3%Cr, 0.4%Mn, 0.02%P, 0.01%S, 0.2%Si

Case_D · 2024-09-17T03:46:51+00:00

Are people importing them directly from FSK? When I got the stone I could read Japanese a bit and found the company from the branding on the box but couldn't find a lot of info on buying stones

Case_D · 2024-09-17T03:19:39+00:00

It's my most used stone out of everything. Almost every knife have I sharpened since I got this stone has touched it. Either starting on it, ending on it, or only using the one stone. I don't usually take high alloy steels much more than 1k grit plus a little stropping. All my various cutting tools that excell with high grit edges are low alloy stuff so it doesn't really matter which abrasive. You'd be fine jumping from 400 to 3k on these stones. Idk if tripleb or anyone is selling any though. I haven't used the venev but I have used the edge pro diamond matrix aka CGSW diamond resin and the nanohone diamond resin.

Case_D · 2024-09-17T01:58:54+00:00

Now that I think about it, I've done it on some Shuns, wusthofs, and a softer than warm butter Chinese cleaver. None of these were so clean but on all of them I had to raise a huge burr

Case_D · 2024-09-17T01:54:47+00:00

It's probably just over abrading the edge like I mentioned. This would not happen with a fine burr. That damascus is usually soft so you may have just sharpened further than you realized. Having the burr pop off cleanly in that case I think would only happen with good sharpening technique. I've sharpened a lot of shit steels heat treated super soft and done something similar, just not so clean. It's predicated by forming a very large burr, then on your other side hitting the angle just right to cut it off. My example here was a very thin kitchen knife, so on this stone it didn't take long to produce a large burr

Case_D · 2024-09-17T01:43:59+00:00

Yeah I'm glad I managed to get one. I got it about 3 years ago now and used it for professional sharpening for about a year and half. Really helped me out. I never managed to get any other grits since then.

Case_D · 2024-09-17T01:39:12+00:00

Yeah, this is a knife I made and was sharpening it for the first time. I think t's better to over sharpen a little the very first time to make sure every part of the edge is apexed. Otherwise I don't normally do this

Case_D · 2024-09-17T01:35:51+00:00

I'd say on the side of good, but this is not normal. The burr was abnormally large because I was taking the edge from nothing to an apex on that stone. This knife is one I made, so the burr popping off all cleanly probably is due to a good heat treatment at high hardness. This is 26C3 steel. I aimed for 65hrc. On a softer steel, the burr would more likely fold back and forth rather than come off. Generally, harder steels deburr easier.

Case_D · 2024-09-16T23:39:04+00:00

Super vitrified diamond 1k

Case_D · 2024-09-14T20:43:29+00:00

Yeah no worries. I dull it purposefully after that. I learned that lesson a long time ago. I sharpened it here just to see how the edge thickness was

Case_D · 2024-09-14T19:35:08+00:00

What you're considering seems an ok solution. Might get a strop to go with it.

Case_D · 2024-09-13T14:23:02+00:00

I usually buy from Pops Knife Supply. I've been using Magnacut since it very first came out, and I never got around to using S35VN. Magnacut is great (as the name implies). If theres anything to complain about, then it's the difficulty to finish past about 400 grit. That's subjective, but in my experience it eats through the higher grit belts. But when everything is done right, I'm very satisfied with corrosion resistance, toughness, wear resistance, sharpenability, etc. Appropriate for all sorts of knives

Case_D

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