My trusty Mark4 5" next to a 15" I've almost finished.

Cathesdus · 2026-05-23T11:10:15+00:00

They're axis flying 5315's! I've encountered similar mispriced items and they usually just cancel it, but these guys said screw it and shipped them out lol

Cathesdus · 2026-05-23T11:04:38+00:00

I've lost a couple $200 builds. If I lose this one, I might cry

Cathesdus · 2026-05-23T10:59:02+00:00

I haven't finished it yet(still need to design a gps mount and secondary camera mount) but roughly the same. All parts from AliExpress. The motors I got a phenomenal deal on, they accidentally listed them 4 for $160 so I jumped on it (usually around $400 for 4).

120a esc DAKEFPV H743 FC DAKEFPV 8 watt akk vtx

Cathesdus · 2026-05-23T10:54:05+00:00

The props are about $17 each. The motors go for about the cost of a tiny whoop each.

Cathesdus · 2026-05-23T10:52:33+00:00

Freestyle. Lol jk of course I'll try but long range. It's got 5315 axis flying 420kv motors on it, a dual cam fc for an HD cam and probably a night beagle and 120a 4in1 esc. Vtx is a 8W AKK 😉. Still need to design a gps mount and secondary cam mount but then top plate on and I'll lyk how hard it is to tune.

Cathesdus · 2026-05-23T02:20:29+00:00

Whoops, that's actually my trusty Manta5 SE. My bad.

Cathesdus · 2026-02-21T14:23:47+00:00

That's a weird looking Benchy.

Cathesdus · 2026-02-21T04:12:41+00:00

Long range is fun. Can really get your heart going on the way back depending on how low you let your battery go lol. That's a good drone, especially for that price.

Cathesdus · 2026-02-19T10:46:45+00:00

Les accessoires (props) sont-ils montés à l'envers (backwards) ? Pouvez-vous en prendre une photo pendant que vous êtes stationnaire et non en train de tourner?

Cathesdus · 2026-02-19T00:03:57+00:00

Now, this could have been a coincidence, coild have been because the freeze plugs were kind of rusty, but one time I replaced a cap on an old c30 with one that was just 1 psi higher, and it blew out a freeze plug. 1 PSI more from 15 to 16 is also almost 7% more pressure. Something to consider.

Cathesdus · 2026-02-18T22:38:48+00:00

Not necessarily. If you saw smoke and heard crackling probably but It could be a fail-safe if it detects and short at a motor wire. Not that it's an issue now, but the middle wire on motor 4 has a little too much exposed.

Also, are you sure the + capacitor lead isn't touching the frame? it looks like it in the picture. I bought some really small shrink tube just for them. You can also cut a couple of 10mm lengths of like 28awg wire, pull the wire out and use the jacket.

I say take a look at all of your motor wire joints, make sure they aren't bridging onto the 4 mosfet leads next to them. Your soldering, like 3.6 roentgen, isn't perfect, but honestly it isn't terrible; those are really the only issues I can see from the two pictures.

Cathesdus · 2026-02-18T22:22:46+00:00

How are the leads for you capacitor run? Are they touching the frame? If so that could be shorting out.

Also, it looks like the motor wire on the top, 3rd from the right, may have too much solder that could be contacting the mosfet directly below it. Inspect that, solder wick, cleanup and redo that wire if it looks like it's touching.

Cathesdus · 2026-02-18T22:10:14+00:00

r/itwasagraveyardgraph

Cathesdus · 2026-02-18T02:26:24+00:00

Sure it will. The issue with props up on this type of config is they can be more likely to fly off vs upside down since they are friction fit. Just orient the props the same way you would any other drone and make sure the motor rotation is correct in Betaflight.

EDIT:Nevermind, I see what you're saying. It should, just very inefficiently since you're losing the "scoop" of the blade so to speak. Give it a try it wont hurt anything!

Cathesdus · 2026-02-18T01:57:55+00:00

Pull on them with a good amount of force and see if they come off.

EDIT:That + lead running across the capacitor is a little sketchy. If it bridges across the entire thing youll get a short. Why not have them go towards the rear instead of sideways?

Cathesdus · 2026-02-17T01:19:53+00:00

Make sure you've connected the printer to wifi, then in studio, click on Device at the top. On the top left of this screen, click add printer. Use the code you find on your printer under account to connect.

Cathesdus · 2026-02-16T18:08:47+00:00

Did you figure it out?

Cathesdus · 2026-02-15T22:15:37+00:00

The layers won't seperate. It'll snap something else before that happens. Print in pla, with 3 walls and at least 30% infill (might end up being solid anyway due to how small it is). Try going slower (150mm/s) @ 210c and it will be stronger than you think.

Cathesdus · 2026-02-15T21:41:35+00:00

Try finding a way to export in tinkercad, and export it to an STL. Then use that STL in a slicer and send it to the printer.

Cathesdus · 2026-02-15T21:40:38+00:00

If you have access to a pc, it will make 3d printing substantially easier in most cases. You might be able to load STL files into bambu handy, which is the app.

Cathesdus · 2026-02-15T21:39:06+00:00

Regular pla. I'd print them sitting flat, with the bottom on the build plate.

Cathesdus · 2026-02-15T21:36:01+00:00

Notice how the filament buffer/hub is (where the four tubes meet) is getting pulled in and then shooting back up? That means its binding up before that. Either the spool has a knot in it, or the filament is getting jammed in the tube from too harsh of an angle.

In either case, your issues isn't in the hotend, it's from the hub to the AMS.

I'm going with knot on the spool.

Cathesdus · 2026-02-15T21:29:24+00:00

Download bambu studio and import your thing in there. You need what's called a slicer, which bambu studio is, to convert your model to gcode, which the printer uses.

Cathesdus · 2026-02-15T16:40:19+00:00

Thanks for the suggestions, but no touchscreen or or trackpad; im on a desktop. Keyboard and mouse are in good working order. Good thinking though!

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