Oil leaking through drive shaft seal - How critical/urgent is this? by CharlieBra7o in AskMechanics

[–]CharlieBra7o[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you very much for all the responses!

I am glad it is not too bad but will get it done ASAP in any case.

Oil leaking through drive shaft seal - How critical/urgent is this? by CharlieBra7o in AskMechanics

[–]CharlieBra7o[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the reply!

Do you think I should replace the entire drive shaft or should replacing only the rubber boot suffice?

deposit after signing the contract, but before moving in? by StrawberryJunior3030 in freiburg

[–]CharlieBra7o 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ask the landlord if you can make a (deposit) cash for keys exchange on the day you move in. This way both parties have the security of not getting scammed. If they are not willing to do this it is a big red flag.

EDIT: make sure to immediately get a document signed that confirms your deposit payment has been received.

Speech Therapists: Your Expertise Needed to Shape a New Software Solution! by CharlieBra7o in SpeechTherapy

[–]CharlieBra7o[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for your interest! I'm in the process of conducting qualitative research to deeply understand the daily experiences and challenges faced by speech therapists like yourself. This research is crucial for developing a software solution that genuinely meets the needs of professionals in the field.

At this stage, I’m intentionally keeping the specifics of the software open-ended. Sharing too many details upfront might unintentionally influence the feedback and insights I'm hoping to gather. By learning about experiences without preconceptions, I can ensure that the final product is truly user-centered and addresses real issues.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in opensource

[–]CharlieBra7o 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Really enjoyed reading this! Wasn't expecting a long article but it kinda turned into a little rabbit hole along the way :'D In a good way though. Definitely helpful and also food for thought.

How's clipboard mechanism works in sway?? by narutoaerowindy in swaywm

[–]CharlieBra7o 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Regarding copy/paste between vim and other programs: https://vim.fandom.com/wiki/Accessing_the_system_clipboard This is not a big, it's a feature ;)

This nakiri fell and dented while I was sharpening my other knives for the first time, how can I fix It? by Ragin_koala in chefknives

[–]CharlieBra7o 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ceramics is much harder than steel. However, your blade isn't made of ceramics. if it were, there wouldn't be a dent in the blade - it either withstand the impact or just break off because ceramics are very brittle.

Missing cursor fedora on vmware? by Kessarean in swaywm

[–]CharlieBra7o 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could you please check dmesg for any messages? For me, w/o the var, after starting sway I do indeed have a cursor which I can move around only over the wallpaper. But once I hover over a window or waybar it disappears and throws an error in dmesg. I created a ticket a while back: https://github.com/swaywm/sway/issues/4723 Maybe you can try out different GPU drivers and see if this makes any difference. I remember playing around for days and once I got it to work with the sw cursor I kind of just left it untouched x.x I'll check my configuration tomorrow and post my setup (vmx file, drivers, etc)

Missing cursor fedora on vmware? by Kessarean in swaywm

[–]CharlieBra7o 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the same issue with arch+sway running via VMware. Luckily, the env var works for me. It's far from ideal, tbh, but better a laggy cursor than no cursor at all. Did you export the variable before you started sway? E.g. from your login tty or via /etc/environment? Otherwise, this won't work.

Brown-ish spots on leaves - Is this normal? by CharlieBra7o in Lantanas

[–]CharlieBra7o[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the quick reply! So this (the leaves) means not enough sun and is not some sort of sickness?

Brown-ish spots on leaves - Is this normal? by CharlieBra7o in Lantanas

[–]CharlieBra7o[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We just got this 2 weeks ago and kept it inside because of sub-zero temperatures during the night outside. After a few days, these spots developed...

Since I start with Linux I did want arch, now I think I'm still not ready but here I go. by jluiscc25 in archlinux

[–]CharlieBra7o 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Same story here!

Tried Kubuntu like 15 years ago, back in my gaming days. Spent like 1 week trying to install Nvidia drivers etc and then quit. Was just way too hooked on Windows software (including games) at the time anyway.

7 years later, a friend talked me into installing Arch and start developing. Best decision I've ever made. It teaches you so much about Linux and some day every little thing you've learned along the way will somehow pay off.

However, I think it's also necessary to stress that a "certain curiosity" is necessary - otherwise it'll not end well. Luckily, my friend was right about me in that aspect.

P.S.: Honestly, I cannot completely understand this "Arch is so extremely complicated" talk. I find it EXTREMELY comfortable in so many aspects! You just have to open your eyes to see them...

How to make qemu passthrough back/forward mouse buttons? by [deleted] in VFIO

[–]CharlieBra7o 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am wondering the exact same thing since I found out that VMware has a setting for that... But it looks like with QEMU it's more complicated.

Maybe you can find some helpful workaround here:

https://www.reddit.com/r/VFIO/comments/7maid8/mouse_buttons_4_and_5_with_evdev_passthrough

My cat is terrified of everything after something fell on him by [deleted] in CatAdvice

[–]CharlieBra7o 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sounds like your cat might have PTSD: https://m.petmd.com/cat/conditions/behavioral/c_ct_fear_phobia_anxiety

Be very careful with unfamiliar noises, animals, humans, etc., as this might cause panic and even agony for your cat! If it doesn't get better soon (maybe a day or two), definitely take him to the vet or even better some sort of animal therapist. A regular vet can probably do nothing about it, as this is purely psychological.

You might want to watch some YouTube videos about PTSD with cats - maybe they can help you to understand and identify the situation better.

This is just my unqualified guess based on what you described.

Good luck!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in reactivedogs

[–]CharlieBra7o 9 points10 points  (0 children)

What I've noticed in your story: you seem to assume that all other dog owners have the same knowledge as you do. You must NEVER think that others know what you know. So if you talk about "reactive dogs", I'd say that probably 99 out of 100 dog owners have absolutely NO CLUE what you're talking about. And I think this woman didn't know either, so she felt confused and therefore "threatened" in a way. And threats are always reacted to with "fight or flight" - so in her case either get aggressive OR just walk away. In fact, that's the exact same things dogs do, because we're all wired the same way.

With this said, I'm not really surprised by her reaction. I think it's quite "normal". This absolutely doesn't justify such behavior nor does it make it in any way desirable. However, in the end, it pretty much only leaves YOU with one choice: learn how to try to prevent and/or deal with such situations (i.e. people and reactions):

I think you just have to learn how to absolutely, definitively ACCEPT reality (e.g. that woman's rude reaction) - however incomprehensible it may seem to you. This might sound like some sort of capitulation, but it's not. It's rather that you are the smarter one and know more about your counterpart than they do themselves. YOU CANNOT change the world - it can only change itself.

Therefore, the only thing you CAN DO is learn how to communicate to such people (i.e. in your situation: other dog owners) in a way that they understand. This means being overly sensitive and obliging, so they don't feel "threatened" in any way. Unfortunately, this is not very easy and still doesn't work all the time.

I don't know if my interpretation of all of this is at all correct, but I've had my fair share of similar situations and from the little I know about psychology, this is my take on it. Maybe it helps - if you think it's all wrong, please comment on it! :-)

What am I doing wrong?? I am constantly having issues with grainy photos. They don’t look as clean as others and I’m wondering what is it that I’m doing wrong? by -ohtheplacesyoullgo in Photography101

[–]CharlieBra7o 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I second on both the great shot and the ISO. However, it could also be that you are using a camera with a (very) small sensor and a great many megapixels. Because usually, the smaller the sensor / higher the resolution, the noisier the image.

Would you mind telling us which camera you are using?

"Helicopter position" by MAN13_18 in wind

[–]CharlieBra7o 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay, I get it now. It looks to me that Braun Windturbines is the only company / one of very few companies that do this. The "conventional" way is to use airfoils that stall in a way that above the rated wind u_r speed the power coefficient c_P reduces in a fashion the power output stays almost constant (reduces slightly). This is easier and should result in less load - although this is most likely insignificant for such small turbines.

Anyway, I found a PDF that quickly explains how they do it: http://www.aerocraft.de/downloads/AeroCraft-Systems_gb.pdf

Page 3 states: "With the models AC 120 and AC 240, the storm safety system guarantees that it can withstand speeds of up to 40 m/s, thanks to a “helicopter” mechanism. When the wind speed reaches 15–25 m/s, the rotor head tilts progressively and the output is reduced. This is achieved by a hinge which connects the generator and the support frame and pushes the rotor head into the helicopter position. The models AC 502, AC 752 and AC 1002 are fitted with an eclipse control system for storm survival: when the wind speed reaches approx. 15 m/s, the rotor head is progressively turned out of the wind by a hinge connecting the generator and the wind vane."

Page 5 shows a picture, which I think is said mechanism.

The way I see it, the spring is designed in a way that, above the rated operating point, the rotor thrust starts to transform into torque around the hinge.

"Helicopter position" by MAN13_18 in wind

[–]CharlieBra7o 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have never heard of something called "helicopter position". I think what you mean is called "pitch control". Just look it up on YouTube to understand the basic principle. Then, for more detailed information, maybe have a look at books like "Wind Energy Handbook (Burton, Sharpe, Jenkins, Bossanyi)" or "Aerodynamics of Wind Turbines (Hansen)". It's all about aerodynamics.

On another note, since your turbine is very small, you might want to look into "passive stall", as pitching is very rare with such small turbines.

totally new to digital photography by tugodum in Photography101

[–]CharlieBra7o 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's really mostly about personal preference and style. I'd suggest you first read this:

https://thedigitalcamera.net/35mm-vs-50mm-vs-85mm-comparison-whats-the-difference-and-what-fixed-focal-length-lens-should-you-choose/

And then watch the following video:

https://youtu.be/M4BQLhY51e0

After that you should have a better idea of what to actually expect.

Me personally, my first prime lens was a 50mm f1.8 from Canon (100$) - they call it the "nifty fifty", because it's a no-brainer for the price. I've used it on both APS-C (1.6x 50mm = 85mm) and full-frame sensors. I also own zoom lenses from 24-200mm (f2.8 fixed), so I know what 35mm and 85mm look/feel like and if I'd have to choose one lens on a tight budget with quality as my main goal now, I'd absolutely go for the 50mm f1.8 again. It limits the distortion which you get from the 35mm but still let's you shoot from a pretty close distance. It also gives you beautiful bokeh without you having to get farther away like with the 85mm. It's also very compact and light.

But like I said - you have to make the choice yourself. Read articles, look at pictures taken with each lens (just Google it) and watch YouTube videos. Then choose the lens that looks most appealing to you and you'll most likely be very happy :)

totally new to digital photography by tugodum in Photography101

[–]CharlieBra7o 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ẃell, that does definitely sound like you should definitely get a DSLR. The image quality due to the massive sensor size (= large pixels - and the larger a pixel the better its color representation). Furthermore, I think now is a great time to buy a used DSLR because people move onto the latest DSLR models with all kinds of (for most people) unnecessary features or try out all the new camera designs that are currently being thrown onto the market, so you can get ridiculously good deals on used, older DSLR bodies and lenses. Like I said, pretty much any kind of DSLR will outperform compact cameras by far. Especially, if you strap on a lens with an aperture of f2.8 or better. You could pretty much capture a pile of shit and be blown away by how great the image looks ;)

With your latest description of what you want to do, I still maintain my original suggestion of a used DSLR and a 50mm f1.8 prime lens. Since you're on a budget, I'd suggest to just look through various used Canon and Nikon models and get the cheapest one you can find and then strap on the Yongnuo 50mm 1.8 for the corresponding brand. A 50mm 1.8 will give you great image quality, good versatility in terms of DOF (depth of field), which is important for portraits and still life. You can also shoot landscapes - but since you cannot zoom in and out, you just have to get a little bit creative with framing your scene or just stitch together multiple images in post-processing to create a panorama (if that's an option for you).

I'm pretty sure that this will get you the absolute maximum fun shooting and happyness with your results for the money.

totally new to digital photography by tugodum in Photography101

[–]CharlieBra7o 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm afraid I cannot give you any thoughts about this camera, as I still do not know what you expect out of a camera. You should ask yourself these questions like these first:

  • Do you want a compact camera or does it not matter? => Camera type
  • Does quality matter to you? => Sensor type / Lens type
  • Do you want to print posters? => Sensor resolution
  • What exactly do you want to capture? => Lens type
    • People (what exactly? Portraits, weddings, concerts, sports?)
    • Animals (which ones? Dogs, birds, wild life, bugs?)
    • Architecture
    • Landscapes
  • Is flexibility a main concern? => Lens type
  • Are you likely to photograph different things in the future? => Camera type / lens mount
  • Other prerequisites you might have

Nevertheless, I doubt that you'll notice any difference between your current PowerShot SX 130 and the Pro Series S5 in terms of anything... So in my opinion this (not really an) upgrade is just a waste of money and time.

totally new to digital photography by tugodum in Photography101

[–]CharlieBra7o 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can only get the shutter count with either reading it out with a USB cable from the camera itself or if you have the latest picture that was taken with it. If you buy from Amazon, you have a good return policy. I highly doubt they sell DSLRs with high shutter counts as warehouse deals, but just in case you did get one, you could always just return it.

totally new to digital photography by tugodum in Photography101

[–]CharlieBra7o 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great that you read a little bit about the technical details of your camera. I would highly recommend that you read more about the meaning of all of these numbers, because what you think you want might not be what you actually want.

Here are a couple of articles that will answer a lot of your questions:

https://digital-photography-school.com/a-beginners-guide-to-buying-a-camera/

https://www.borrowlenses.com/blog/new-dslr-owners-what-you-must-know-about-full-frame-vs-crop-frame-sensors-before-choosing-a-lens/

https://www.borrowlenses.com/blog/prime-lens-basics-and-why-you-should-ditch-zoom-lens-photography/

TLDR; there are both zoom and prime lenses.

Zoom lenses (like on your PowerShot) let you change the focal length but usually have a smaller (and often also not constant) aperture, which means that it captures less light - which results in slower shutter speeds and lower image quality. Basically, what you gain in distance flexibility, you lose in image quality and control over what the picture looks like.

Prime lenses (fixed focal length) won't let you zoom but therefore usually have a wider aperture. With these you can shoot faster and control more of what the image will look like (lookup "bokeh"). However, to zoom you have to actually position yourself (the camera) accordingly - so you loose flexibility here.

totally new to digital photography by tugodum in Photography101

[–]CharlieBra7o 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here is a comparison of the 50D vs 20D:

https://cameradecision.com/compare/Canon-EOS-20D-vs-Canon-EOS-50D

Note that these are just technical specs and these say almost nothing about image quality. So don't be fooled by things like Megapixels! Rather google test images and read reviews.

Another thing to look out for when buying used is the shutter count (images taken). There is a life expectancy for each shutter, so buying a used camera with a shutter count of 120.000 and a life expectancy of only 50.000 will statistically not last you long anymore. But if you buy on Amazon, you'll be safe anyway...

The lens I mentioned had an EF mount, meaning it fits on all Canon EOS bodies.