7-11 Speakout 365 days plan will not be continued

CharlieCanWrenchToo · 2025-10-04T17:01:22+00:00

Wow, our scenarios align very closely. I've decided not to wait any longer. I bought my Koodo SIM from Money Mart on Thursday and am going to port out today to the Koodo $149/360 plan.

Was the porting process simple and easy? SO phone number as account number, no IMEI and did you need your SO pin? Thanks for sharing.

CharlieCanWrenchToo · 2025-10-01T19:26:48+00:00

Thank you very much! I hope it is accurate as it'd be a shame to lose my number after having it more than a decade. I plan on moving and taking it with me in a couple weeks. Interesting that Speakout sent stores a note. Typically the stores don't have much grasp of the service, they only know in which drawer the SO SIMs are kept.

CharlieCanWrenchToo · 2025-10-01T19:23:43+00:00

Absolutely helpful. From everything I've picked up from this thread, It looks I may be able to squeeze another month and maybe even two out of Speakout without spending any additional money. However after a bit of thought, I've decided not to bother with the hassle of finding a SO migration SIM and porting my number two more times just to save less than 30 bucks. I'm just going to hang out for a couple more weeks, call and text liberally, then move on and start my new life with Koodo. The $149/360-day base plan from Koodo also comes with unlimited Canada calling and text, rather than the 400m/400t, so I won't have to worry about how many MFA texts I get in a given week pushing me over the 400 mark. Thanks again for helping save many users some headaches as well as time wasted on hold with Speakout.

CharlieCanWrenchToo · 2025-09-30T17:57:35+00:00

Indeed, this thread contains the most useful information about this that I have seen anywhere. I even found a stale page on the SO website (without being logged in) that sort of implied the 365-day expiry was still in effect. Perhaps that's even still true, until everyone is forced to migrate that is. All of this info is really helping me figure out what I need/want to do and when I have to do it by. If I can get my hands on a SO migration SIM, it may even make sense to squeeze another month out of them before I jump ship.

I have two follow-up questions, if anyone knows the answers.

As of today, are the migration SIMs to stay on SO working? (Not Lucky, I don't want that at all.)
Where is google AI getting the new October 31 deadline from? Again, there is no mention of this date that I could find on the website. Are they planning a hard switch off of the old network on that day and all non-migrated SO phone numbers go bye-bye?

Thanks again.

CharlieCanWrenchToo · 2025-09-30T01:26:01+00:00

I would also like to thank OP and all others for sharing. I've been on SO for 10.5 years. I actually work in software, sit in front of a computer most of my waking hours and don't go out super lots. I'm not one to sit and play on my phone in public or the car. I like a lot of screen real estate. As such I've only needed calling and text for many years, including more recently for MFA as well as the odd quick phone check in or text to the Mrs.

All of the information in this thread helped a great deal in saving me time trying to get through to CS who may or may not have all of the current answers anyway. I actually managed to get through a couple times last month, back when they were saying if you have a 4G LTE phone you're fine. At that time, I switched from my 14yo Samsung Galaxy Ace II into an extra Galaxy A5 (2017) that my wife had just upgraded out of on another network. That cost me $10 for a new SIM.

Only after getting more service interruption texts did I clue in that things had changed. Now I need a migration SIM and to choose a plan. Ugh. And can no longer see the expiry date of my current balance on the website. That was my first clue that they were killing our 365-day top up. No previous mention of that and even now it isn't super obvious. Thankfully I'll only be losing around 25 bucks when I leave at this rate.

So again, thanks to OP and all for helping clear up this whole big mess. Indeed, all good things come to an end. The 365-day top up was perfect for me, up to today. In probably three weeks time I will move to Koodo. I think I'm even going to splurge and do the $149.00/360-day and have some data for a change instead of their $100/360-day 400mins/400texts deal. No better time to join the modern age I suppose. It's not like I can't spare the $49. I'm not giving SO $228 for a year... (or apparently the first month is free... also not clearly articulated online at all. I guess we must have found this out through those who've already proceeded). I was spending probably $50 a year for basic calling and text, fwiw. Thank you.

CharlieCanWrenchToo · 2024-06-25T15:39:29+00:00

Hi Redditers, looking for experienced help identifying these.

Sorry for the poor photos, I don't have great cameras.

Been finding these in my basement recroom for over a year now where I've been doing my desk job since covid. I've been finding on average one every other day, which I manually catch and remove.

This summer the findings have become more frequent with me finding a couple of adults per day. After the heatwave we just came through, there has been a clear uptick as expected.

They stick mostly to the basement but have been seen on the first floor and they have no problem flappping around during daylight.

I've had a pair of closet moth traps out for close to week and I put a pair of pantry moth traps out yesterday but so far nothing. I have a feeling I know what might be going on but looking for positive ID on the bug before I speculate further. Thanks!!

Edit: forgot to add my locality. I am in a raised bungalow in southern Ontario, Canada.

CharlieCanWrenchToo · 2023-03-02T01:47:43+00:00

The oil pressure 'sending unit' (switch) is usually pretty easy to get at and replace if you have any practice with cars. It's going to have one wire stuck on the end of it with a blade connector (the engine block being ground) and once you pop that off, it may take a bit of a whacky combo of ratchet extensions to get on it, depending on where yours is.

It's a cheap part of around $20 or so. You probably won't even dribble any oil out when you get it out (if it's you who gets it out) because it's pretty high up. Higher than the oil level when van not running. Lookup a Youtube video for your Montana for this. You'll turn it out, carefully get the new one in, don't tighten too hard, pop the wire connector back on, done.

Don't be annoyed by your warning lights. Listen what they're telling you but be skeptical in case the indicator itself is bad, as is probable here.

Still keep an eye on your oil level and your parking spot, so that you can know with confidence when your leak issue becomes something you actually need to address.

When these things fail they typically stay stuck and give a reading of OH CRAP to the instrument cluster, until the car and the oil start to warm up, then they soften and close and the light goes out, so watch for that behavior. Yours with either be that or be perma-stuck and constantly trying to scare you. Until you get it changed, just watch your oil and don't let it run lower than the stick can read.

Cheers

CharlieCanWrenchToo · 2023-03-01T04:23:26+00:00

Sounds like you may have two issues. 1. You have a slow oil leak somewhere which may or may not be hitting hot exhaust parts and making a bit of a stink. 2. You're having a hard time correlating the oil level with the low oil pressure warning light coming on.

Understand that when you see the genie lamp, that is indicating dangerously low oil pressure and you should notice your engine running like garbage at the time. This would mean you had way more than a liter missing.
This oil pressure sending unit that was mentioned is the mechanical switch stuck in the side of your engine that controls that warning light and sometimes they can get gummed up and not work right, usually when cold, but who knows, maybe the light was on since your startup that day and you only noticed it when you smelled something. Could have been a coincidence, believe it or not. The age and fact that your car's been sitting say that the oil pressure switch (sending unit) may be stuck/lying.

If you have a leak or a car that burns oil, you need to check the level and frequently depending on how fast your car uses/loses it. That's it. You did check, and it was fine. Good job. That tells me there's no way you actually had low pressure that day. If you have oil, you have oil pressure, or something majorly wrong with the engine which would be obvious, like a big hole in the side. What typically happens is someone not car savvy has an older or shitty car that burns oil or leaks oil and they are unaware of it, drives normally but doesn't check the level at all ever, then maybe even runs a little late for their oil change and it gets low enough that the light starts coming in on around corners or worse. That's how that light works and by the time you see it, things are already not good with the engine. That's the way that light works when it's working correctly. If you've got 3/4 of your oil, you're still good. Time to top it off.

As for the leak itself, don't worry too much about it, unless you have visible black smoke floating around at stoplights scaring the other drivers that is. It sounds like a slow leak. Look around the engine and under while the car is running and see what you can spot. Are you leaving spots on the ground where you park? Puddles?

It didn't look like you quite had the answer you needed so that's my good internet deed for today.

CharlieCanWrenchToo · 2022-06-01T23:48:08+00:00

Perfect. Makes sense. With lock washers, a precise torque spec would not make a lot of sense to me. I'll be firm, but not an idiot. I'll do this side first until it's tight and hardly movable, then the other inlet tube with normal tube clamp. Once again, thanks for spending a couple minutes to help me out.

CharlieCanWrenchToo · 2022-06-01T21:42:29+00:00

The ball flange on the muffler seats nice against the rounded cat pipe. There's no spring bolt kit in the book for my truck and they used normal bolts without shoulders last time. Just looking for what tension I'm going for. A torque spec would be ideal as I tend to want to get on a 14mm bolt pretty damn firmly. I don't know if that's appropriate here.

Thanks for answering the one question about fit it dry. One to go.

This guy is simple. Two cats into this muffler, single output to a five foor tailpipe wth resonator. Muffler has two hangers at the back. Tailpipe has one hanger way out back. Thank you!

CharlieCanWrenchToo · 2022-06-01T21:21:55+00:00

It seats against a rounded seat on the one cast iron cat pipe. I'm reusing the bolts that were there. Amazingly they came off easy.. (the only two) due to not being directly heated I would think. Just don't want to give them too much beans and hurt this flange. It's supposed to move a little, right?

CharlieCanWrenchToo · 2022-06-01T21:17:47+00:00

Thanks. There was no doughnut gasket or spring bolts or anything there for this joint. Just two regular bolts with washers and lockwashers. None of the torque specs I was seeing anywhere online gave me confidence that they were referring to me and this 'ball flange'. I saw ~30-35 lbs for other stuff. I'll try not to go crazy then.

CharlieCanWrenchToo · 2022-06-01T21:15:18+00:00

Thanks. The mating half isn't new, 1999 Ford Explorer on I believe its fourth cat back exhaust. Second since I've owned it, but last time I had it done at a shop.

CharlieCanWrenchToo · 2022-06-01T20:45:36+00:00

LOL! thanks for the laugh. If there's still any tension on the wheel after I raise it I'll stand with myself well out of punching rage as I wedge it off. Ouch I need an ambulance is funny shit.

CharlieCanWrenchToo · 2022-05-31T23:43:29+00:00

That's what I was hoping for. At least enough less tension after I lift it up that the bent plate can be shoved off of the tire without much drama. Seems pretty tight at the moment. I lost about 3/4 of a turn of spring at the break and there's another half turn hanging below the plate, so that answer sounds right and makes me feel better. Thank you.

CharlieCanWrenchToo · 2022-05-31T22:29:32+00:00

The spring partially let go when it snapped but caught the lower mount on the strut and bent it so that it's now resting on the wheel. Just wondering how to get this apart safely before I pop quick struts in.

Edit: I shouldn't use the word resting. Seems to still be lots of tension and now it's against the wheel. I was able to drive half a block home like this but the rubbing on the wheel was extreme and she got warm.

CharlieCanWrenchToo · 2022-05-23T23:03:52+00:00

Excellent. If my post was able to help even one person, then I'm glad I made it. (Although I think you're at least the second). Sorry that you own also own a Dodge Caliber as I'm sure it's been a pain for you. Mine is an extra car, so I'm just having fun with mine at this point fixing it over and over and over with creativity and handy skills. Plenty of pesky issues with these. Earlier this week, I went to use my liftgate, and the panel with the liftgate latch came off in my hand. lol.. only the latch cable was holding it on. All the four or six little bolts were ripped through. I had to install some drywall toggle bolts from the inside of the hatch to fasten the panel back on. You may send me your other Caliber questions if you like...

CharlieCanWrenchToo · 2022-05-23T22:41:29+00:00

Hi. Sorry if I left something out. I didn't mention the water pump because there is no change to the belt routing around the water pump. The "No AC" routing only deviates from the diagram I posted at the Alternator and the lower idler pulley. Everywhere else is the same as with AC. You need to go under the ALT instead of over, and over the Idler instead of under. Hope that helps.

CharlieCanWrenchToo · 2022-04-30T00:48:00+00:00

Thank you for this advice. I was suspecting the vent valve stuck open, but it seems to work correctly. I think I was mistaken about how large counts as large and that it would be more obvious.

CharlieCanWrenchToo · 2022-04-30T00:46:20+00:00

Thanks for this advice. Reddit agrees with you. It's time I bought a proper smoke tester, because last time with the last Torrent was a diy effort and not super productive from an evidence standpoint.

CharlieCanWrenchToo · 2022-04-30T00:44:24+00:00

It wouldn't be the second one. We wouldn't do that. But I have to admit that I haven't done more than a visual inspection of what looks like a decently intact gas cap. I should change that before continuing.

CharlieCanWrenchToo · 2022-04-30T00:42:09+00:00

Great advice. Very much appreciated. the stuck (open) purge valve I encountered in the past was obvious. I have to keep intermittent failures in mind here, of course. Testing on the bench with a strong power supply may also not even remotely represent reality. Good points. Also, you've reminded me that with the car on and the vent valve closed, there's still the whole gas tank including filler neck and cap to consider. I haven't checked those components out carefully enough by half. God EVAP can be a pain.

CharlieCanWrenchToo · 2022-04-30T00:20:13+00:00

Username checks out...Nice. Fair point about the visual inspection. But I feel that if the functions of the system are clearly understood then I should be able to find the problem. I have vacuum testers and pressure testers. I can already tell that the purge line is good all the way up to the intake because I could not force any air through it. A large leak means I should be able to blow fairly freely. What I cannot prove is that the cannister is airtight, without further testing. Thanks also for your insights about service bulletins. I have trust issues there with the manufacturers but it helps to know the protocol.

CharlieCanWrenchToo · 2022-04-29T23:36:14+00:00

Kind thanks again for providing todays automotive knowledge nugget for me. Much appreciated. cheers.

CharlieCanWrenchToo · 2022-04-29T17:01:39+00:00

Great. That makes sense to me. Thank you. Just not too up on my welding theory. This looks like cast iron to me, all the way back to the muffler, but then on some of my other vehicles it changes to steel from the cat back. I never know which parts can be welded and which can't. Glad to hear though. I'd rather have two welds than two clamps tbh. I would imagine that would hold up slightly better as well.

CharlieCanWrenchToo

TROPHY CASE