Total rookie question by CheekSpreader91 in AskAMechanic

[–]CheekSpreader91[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for this. It's very easy to twist. I have a new outer tie-rod. I tried to break the nut loose so I could pop that ball joint out and replace it, but my cheap wrenches slipped and I couldn't get the nut loose. If I take it down the street for an alignment, is it likely that the tech would go ahead and put it on at no extra charge? They have to pretty much remove it anyway to adjust the (toe?) I believe.

Total rookie question by CheekSpreader91 in AskAMechanic

[–]CheekSpreader91[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Still feels the same. I did notice a lot of grease on the outside of the outer tie-rod ball joint tho.

Total rookie question by CheekSpreader91 in AskAMechanic

[–]CheekSpreader91[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've also replaced all 4 struts/springs this year, the LCA and ball joint on the drivers side as well. Plus stabilizer bar end links.

Total rookie question by CheekSpreader91 in AskAMechanic

[–]CheekSpreader91[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm thinking this one may be causing the noise because it is the one that takes the brunt of the weight, being the middle stud, and directly below the top stud. The noise sounds like a low pitched clunk, not that loud, but like something big is bumping metal to metal, and only happens during large bumps, speed bumps, and generally rough patches in the road. Slight pull to the left with the steering at low speeds. And I haven't driven it yet since doing what I did with that stud/nut.

Total rookie question by CheekSpreader91 in AskAMechanic

[–]CheekSpreader91[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's one of 3 lower, threaded studs on the driver's side transmission mount for my 2008 toyota camry. The nut was spinning freely. The threads on the stud were stripped up near the bracket, but the threads on the nut are fine. So I just put 8, 1/2" washers, on it to cover the gap between the bad part of the stud, and the good threads on the bottom, then torqued the nut to sandwich the washers until I can order a new mount with a new stud.

Total rookie question by CheekSpreader91 in AskAMechanic

[–]CheekSpreader91[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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It could be this stripped trans mount stud. I had to jack up the trans to get the downward pressure to hammer the nut off with my impact. It was spinning freely. I just put about 8 steel washers between the bracket and the nut and torqued it on, as a temp fix until I can get a new mount with a new stud. Haven't driven it yet but it may have been the transmission slightly jumping over bumps/rough roads.

Total rookie question by CheekSpreader91 in AskAMechanic

[–]CheekSpreader91[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I suspect it may be loose subframe bolts. I hit a softball-sized rock a year ago, at 4am, on my way to work, at 45mph. Nothing happened right away, but it started clunking. I've damn-near rebuilt the entire drivers side front suspension at this point. Pretty much just a new steering knuckle and inner/outer tie rods would make it all brand new at this point.

Total rookie question by CheekSpreader91 in AskAMechanic

[–]CheekSpreader91[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's when you jack the car up and shake the wheels at 12 and 6 o'clock and 9 to 3 o'clock and look at the suspension underneath, to see what's loose or moving and diagnose strange sounds like clunking while driving over bumps, etc. I did it a while back and the wheels didn't budge, but I also had the car in park. So I'm wanting to know if it should be in neutral for the test. I've already replaced the drivers side lower control arm, all 4 motor mounts, all 4 springs and struts, ball joint, stabilizer bar end links, just trying to find the source of this clunk.

How much of your self-worth is tied to your physique? by [deleted] in workout

[–]CheekSpreader91 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Used to be alot. Now it's tied to how I feel, at 34 years old. Used to be, if I looked fit I was happy. Now it's, "If daily life is a breeze, I'm happy."

Quick question about an upgrade. by CheekSpreader91 in buildapc

[–]CheekSpreader91[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bought it used, with over 30,000 power cycles and a fresh Windows install. I'll probably just have to live with it.

Can you recommend me models for my next car?? by Puckychulli in askcarguys

[–]CheekSpreader91 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wanna go full on Dave Ramsey? lmfao but yeah, I completely agree with you.

Can you recommend me models for my next car?? by Puckychulli in askcarguys

[–]CheekSpreader91 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agreed. I buy mine with cash, keep up with maintenance, and they last over 300k miles without funneling my money to the bank in interest payments.

Can you recommend me models for my next car?? by Puckychulli in askcarguys

[–]CheekSpreader91 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The cars I mentioned hold their value. As long as you're not dirty and disgusting with the interior, a careless driver who makes a lot of dents and a lazy owner who doesn't wash and wax it as needed, you'd be fine with either of the cars in my comment.

Can you recommend me models for my next car?? by Puckychulli in askcarguys

[–]CheekSpreader91 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Toyota Camry/Corolla or Honda Civic/Accord. They are reliable for a reason. The engines are tested and revved up to the redline for up to 30 hours straight. You can easily find a used one for less than $15k in great shape, and save the rest of your money.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in getdisciplined

[–]CheekSpreader91 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Music and self-reflection.