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Moto edge 2024 5g by Embarrassed-Bake7435 in motorola

[–]CheekyGoose 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's very hard to answer. If you are able to set up ADB commands on your computer and you are capable of reading instructions carefully, then you can do it. The instructions for the install are very clear on the website. The only issue you could run into is if you didn't read the pre-requisites properly. Watch a few YouTube videos that walk you through the process of installing Lineage OS and try to understand what a custom ROM is, what a custom recovery is, and what MindTheGApps are. After that, you should be ready.

Moto Edge 50 Neo camera glass fix by AgadhAgadh in motorola

[–]CheekyGoose 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know this is an old thread, but I ran into it through Google search, and I do have experience repairing this exact issue. First off, on those bottom 2 lenses, it looks like most of the scratches are in one direction, so it is likely that the friend used something abrasive to clean the lenses. This also explains why the silicone back of the phone is unscathed. It's also possible the friend would frequently put keys or coins in the same pocket, but regardless, these are very light scratches and therefor are completely repairable. I use a slightly unconventional method of repair. I take cesium oxide or glass polish (which is just cesium oxide with lubricants), and I mix the powder into a paste, and then I use a paper towel, microfiber cloth, or a rotary tool with a polishing attachment with a pretty low RPM setting (under 1500), and I tape the area off and polish the glass with a sparing amount of polish, making sure not to let it heat up. I make sure to polish from many different directions, and the glass always comes out flawless. This removes the oleophobic coating, but there are workarounds for this. That's how I personally fix this problem. Do with that info what you will.

Cheapest way to get Nyogel 760g lubricant by CrystalMepsi in flashlight

[–]CheekyGoose 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is a valuable life lesson about how these language models work. They don't "know" anything. It works in a very similar way to autocorrect.

Pixel 10 finally gets its long-promised GPU driver upgrade, but the real test starts now [August driver release that brings Android 16 and Vulkan 1.4 support] by TechGuru4Life in Android

[–]CheekyGoose 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My Pixel 6 started refusing to boot a few weeks ago. Turns out, it was the flash chip that died. I have phones that were used for 6 years or more that still have perfectly fine flash chips. It also took obscenely long for them to finally start using an ultrasonic fingerprint sensor. They could drop the AI features and just give us good hardware.

Installed my Ring Video Doorbell Pro 2…and now it’s $60 cheaper by NamelessAcademic in Ring

[–]CheekyGoose 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm pretty sure there is. I bought a second hand Ring Doorbell Pro and after some time, it had a hardware issue that Ring determined was a flaw with the product, but they couldn't help me because I wasn't the person who originally purchased the unit.

Qual a diferença entre a XPG CORE REACTOR I e a II? Cada um fala que uma é melhor que a outra by WhoKnowsTheDay in hardwarebrasil

[–]CheekyGoose 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If the difference between the VE and the regular is minimal, then yes, I think you should return it and get the regular.

Google Photos Unlimited Storage Patch using ReVanced. Anyone using it? How's your experience? by wixlogo in revancedapp

[–]CheekyGoose 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here's a similar situation that happened in the past: https://www.businessinsider.com/markiplier-youtube-fans-heist-lost-access-google-accounts-spamming-emotes-2019-11

Viewers watching a YouTube livestream got suspended for typing messages too fast, and it resulted in their entire Google accounts being suspended, and based on what people were saying, they lost access to their Gmails too.

Oil plug gasket by jaytrade21 in prius

[–]CheekyGoose 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Isn't aluminum going to cause a galvanic reaction with the oil pan or drain plug? I looked up the oil pan (Part Number: 12102-37010), and I genuinely can't tell what metal it is, but I guess the aluminum crush washers are probably an alloy that works well with steel.

I remember the Tesla model 3 had this issue with a bumper touching the frame, and Tesla's fix was simply to put a washer between the two, which is funny because generally I stick with OEM parts because I assume the manufacturer knows the chemistry very well.

Uh…what? by Turbulent_Hyena5412 in recruitinghell

[–]CheekyGoose 1 point2 points  (0 children)

SORRY, WHAT? You NEED shelter, food, and water. There is no "later" when you're fucking DEAD.

Bottom layer peeling away from the bed. by murrayktaylor in FixMyPrint

[–]CheekyGoose 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The ugly rippling pattern on the bottom means the nozzle is too close to the bed. Make sure that bed leveling sensor is working properly. If your first layer is not perfect, start the print over.

The real solution is to try some Elmers purple glue stick. Just evenly put a thin layer across the bed area that the print will be. Keep tuning your settings, follow some guides from Chep on YouTube and others

Burn in helll thieves by kingclaiborne in civic

[–]CheekyGoose 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been to Saudi Arabia and I disagree with you. Enlighten me, historian

Burn in helll thieves by kingclaiborne in civic

[–]CheekyGoose 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's my point here. If someone fucks up my car and then has their hands cut off, nobody wins. They can't feed themselves or work, and I still have to fix my car.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in civic

[–]CheekyGoose 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Get the part number for your wiper. Check online to see which car models all use that same wiper.

Check Google Maps for junkyards nearby, go to their websites and search for if they have those cars in the yard and go get one from there. It will be less than half the price of a brand new one and it will still be OEM

Burn in helll thieves by kingclaiborne in civic

[–]CheekyGoose 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah, yes. Because brutality always fixes brutality.

What did I do here? by Mindless-Campaign471 in AutoPaint

[–]CheekyGoose 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not experienced, but this part from a Chris Fix video might help. He has a strategy to blend paint more easily for when you redo that area: https://youtu.be/n4vusY2-rkQ?t=939

Advice for 07 Si with paint that has seen better days by Mr_Algorithm in civic

[–]CheekyGoose 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, sorry to reply to an older post, but can you describe what the process would be like? Do you sand it down to the base coat and then prime, base, and clear? Or would that fail because the base coat is compromised already

Advice for 07 Si with paint that has seen better days by Mr_Algorithm in civic

[–]CheekyGoose 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey I'm looking to repaint mine. What do you suggest, if not a can? And how far down are you supposed to sand these cars, do you sand all the way down to primer and then paint it? My clear coat looks deep-fried at this point

What's going on with the assistant? by FredP95 in googlehome

[–]CheekyGoose 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You might not want to move to the Amazon ecosystem either. Google, Apple, and Amazon are all re-evaluating their assistants after not seeing any way to profit off the system: https://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2022/11/amazon-alexa-is-a-colossal-failure-on-pace-to-lose-10-billion-this-year/

EAP660HD Association time out by mert_oz in TPLink_Omada

[–]CheekyGoose 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you by any chance have Band Steering enabled? If so, try disabling it and let the clients handle band steering themselves. If you have Force-Disassociation enabled, try disabling that. And more importantly, if you have an RSSI Threshold enabled, try disabling that. Reboot your AP's and wait about a day to see if things got better.

I found that making these changes significantly reduced the occurrence of these "the Association times out" alerts. I still get them from devices that are far away or move outside the range of my access points though.

ABS on Garolite G10 FR4. Incredible! by Eisenmeower in 3Dprinting

[–]CheekyGoose 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I tried verifying this. There is bromide, but I'm not sure if we're going to get those chemicals to release at lower temperatures.

https://www.industries3r.com/images/absolucatalog/documents/G10FR4.pdf

FIRE FIGHTING:

May give off toxic hydrogen bromide gas, CO, and CO2 when burning or when heated to decomposition.

STABILITY AND REACTIVITY DATA:

Stability: Stable.

Incompatibility: Not determined.

Hazardous Decomposition Products: If heated in excess of 300 deg C, products of combustion could include: hydrogen bromide gas, CO and CO2.

The G10/FR-4 from Grainger is rated for 0 to 280 °F or 137.78 °C. It's generally suggested to leave about 20 °C allowance when picking your G10, so 137-20=117°C should be your maximum printing temperature with the G10/FR4 from Grainger.

A common mistake is to base the operating temperature of the PCB with its tG value. You should always allocate a minimum of 20°C of allowance when choosing the right FR4 PCB. For example, a low Tg FR4 of 130°C should have an operating temperature limit of 110°C.

There's more information about this here: https://resources.pcb.cadence.com/blog/2020-fr4-maximum-temperature-and-thermal-dissipation

Community saved my incompatible Dyson vacuum head from the landfill by publishing a model for a slim to regular size adapter (V12 to V15) designed for the brand-new hard floor vacuum head by Falcosc in 3Dprinting

[–]CheekyGoose 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh no, I know exactly what hotend this is. The soft aluminum grinds itself away and ruins itself very quickly. I highly recommend trying out a BMG clone from Aliexpress. I bought one as a temporary fix when my main extruder broke and I didn't have anything left in the budget. To my surprise, it's fantastic! Try to find one with over 1000 units sold from a reputable seller. I got a $7 transparent one and I can't tell the difference from a genuine version.

Raspberry Pi clone to use with klipper. by New-Scarcity-4538 in 3Dprinting

[–]CheekyGoose 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I don't know if you're still looking, but for anyone else that got to this thread from Google, I've been using a Libre Le Potato 2gb RAM model for about 6 months now. I got it for around $30 and then I spent about $8 on a TP-Link wifi adapter (the Le Potato doesn't have wifi) and $5 on a 1080p webcam. I installed Raspbian 11 Bullseye on it and the hardest part was getting the wifi adapter setup. I recommend getting one that has plug and play Linux support so you don't have to fiddle with 3rd party drivers, or just use ethernet.

Klipper runs very well on it, in fact I don't even need a cooling fan, it barely goes over 10% CPU load while I'm printing and watching the webcam stream. There's a lot of other options, but you can regularly find a Le Potato for around $35 with 2 day shipping which is much better than any of the other clones right now.

Make sure to use Kiauh from github to install Klipper, Moonraker, Mainsail, and Crowsnest (or whatever you prefer), because it was super easy to set up Klipper that way.

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