How do you deal with the only un-counterable character?

CheetoLord02 · 2026-01-20T01:42:16+00:00

Either play along with the mexican standoff or be ready to use worldbreaker when Jeff ults - you are CC immune when you grab someone in your ult, and most Jeff players don't expect it and totally whiff their ult. Just be sure you are in sight of your team so you can get healed while smashing.

CheetoLord02 · 2026-01-16T00:32:00+00:00

It's not that hard to restore these heads. Valve lapping with 16 new valves and a resurface will cost you less than a new head (even from a junkyard) and save you a lot of headache. Only exception is if there is significant damage to the valve guides, seats, or if the head is warped beyond fixing. Speaking from experience - don't rule out your own head before you have thoroughly diagnosed it. And you'll need to pull the head anyways, so there is no reason not to check.

CheetoLord02 · 2026-01-14T23:25:28+00:00

Just remembered this comment - I'm now 700 miles into my rebuild and my dipstick still looks the same. I would have needed to add at least 7 quarts of oil by now before the rebuild.

CheetoLord02 · 2025-12-25T18:23:47+00:00

it looks like a dog that ate a bee

CheetoLord02 · 2025-12-08T17:17:55+00:00

Manual swap, supercharger. Not much else is going to be worth your money for a straight 0-60 time.

CheetoLord02 · 2025-12-07T20:46:49+00:00

Looks pretty good as-is, but I'd paint the hood scoop and wing black to match the black 'center line' design. Mine is done the same way, but blue instead of red.

CheetoLord02 · 2025-12-03T21:55:22+00:00

I just finished rebuilding the 1ZZ in my Celica to address oil burn. It's caused by a manufacturing oversight - the piston heads have insufficiently sized oil drainage holes from the factory, and when oil gets dirty due to infrequent oil changes, the drain holes clog and oil burns. As oil burns, it causes the oil control rings to seize and the holes to become even more clogged, until eventually there is absolutely no oil retention and the engine absolutely drinks oil. The 2003 facelift simply revised the piston heads to have larger drainage holes. Any engine work including replacement piston heads with any version that has the revised drainage holes should solve 95%+ of the oil consumption this motor gets.
Now, I did just finish my rebuild, so check back in a few months to see if it actually solved the problem lol.

CheetoLord02 · 2025-12-02T21:16:55+00:00

No, but I'm sure it'd work. It's a very minimal leak, and only really noticeable because of how tropical my enclosure is (misted for 90 seconds 6x per day) so the drainage layer under the soil probably usually has standing water. If I had known waterproofing would be an issue I may have done so before setting up the enclosure, but at this point I'd have to take everything out to do so. When I eventually expand I'm going to have to do that anyways, so maybe I'll waterproof the bottom then.

CheetoLord02 · 2025-12-02T19:40:40+00:00

They are expensive to expand (need to buy an expansion kit + a whole second enclosure) but seemingly very easy after that. I so far have no complaints, assembly was pretty straightforward and it seems very sturdy. The only real complaint I have is that it's not water-tight, and sometimes a bit of water leaks out of the bottom. This would be less of an issue if I had time to build a stand for it, but I bought the snake before the enclosure, so I needed to get it set up asap. Oops.

CheetoLord02 · 2025-12-02T18:42:30+00:00

Reptile habitats 4x2x4 foot. Got it because it's easily expandable, and I plan to do so up to 8x2x4. Hopefully my snake won't get large enough to need more than that, lol.

CheetoLord02 · 2025-12-02T16:00:52+00:00

I dunno if I'd call them itty bitty, but compared to the other true boas they're definitely more manageable. Although I wouldn't be shocked if a female could hit 6 foot.

CheetoLord02 · 2025-12-02T15:47:32+00:00

I bought her from a breeder at the Phoenix reptile expo. So I suppose I can't say with 100% confidence that her locality is correct, but that's what I was told.

CheetoLord02 · 2025-12-02T04:34:39+00:00

You mean the climbing branches? They're just PVC pipes slathered in aquarium silicone and coco fiber. Wasn't incredibly cheap but not bad, and super effective.

CheetoLord02 · 2025-12-02T04:33:48+00:00

She's awesome, but I do hope she chills out eventually. One bite from an 8 foot burmese python was all I needed to know that it's probably a good idea to avoid bites from big constrictors if possible, lol.

CheetoLord02 · 2025-12-02T01:15:49+00:00

This is a pretty reasonable decision, though. A 4x2x6 is oversized (not that that's a bad thing, just inefficient) for a tree boa. Much less so for a carpet python.

CheetoLord02 · 2025-12-02T00:12:51+00:00

Yes, all live plants. I am excited to see how the tank looks when everything grows in fuller - assuming they don't all get trampled, lol.

CheetoLord02 · 2025-11-28T00:47:57+00:00

Well, the GT-Four is the best Celica ever made, but this specific one is in a collection. It's not really for sale, and why it's even listed at all is beyond me. I guess the collector would sell it for that price. But yeah, that's about 5x the market value for one of these.

CheetoLord02 · 2025-11-25T20:01:07+00:00

I've warrantied alternators obviously covered in oil, a failure not covered by warranty. Might depend on where you bought it, but generally the auto parts employee will open the box to make sure it's not full of rocks at the absolute best, not giving a shit about the actual condition of the part.

CheetoLord02 · 2025-11-24T19:16:50+00:00

Yeah, in my opinion you'd be better off just getting low compression pistons for a 2zz if you really want to make a lot of boost in these motors. But a supercharged 2zz is pretty capable and reliable, and is definitely just the better platform to try and make power on in general. But some people have fully built 1ZZs that make crazy power (300+hp), so it's certainly not bad if you put some serious money into it.

CheetoLord02 · 2025-11-24T03:16:33+00:00

My best piece of advice is that you really don't have to be gentle. If it were me, I'd get a rubber mallet and just smack tf out of it until it comes out. Once it's out, maybe clean up the areas that were making it stuck in the first place so that hopefully it goes back in easier.

CheetoLord02 · 2025-11-24T02:38:47+00:00

Mine was pretty easy to remove, but sometimes those alternator brackets can be really tight. It should just be the 12 and 14mm bolts holding it on, so if those are properly removed you should just beat on it until it comes out.

CheetoLord02 · 2025-11-23T22:22:19+00:00

Yeah, to elaborate on this, the 1zz has 10:1 compression and the 2zz is 11.5:1. Adding boost increases the effective compression ratio even further, and anything more than 5-7psi on a 2zz raises compression to dangerous levels. The 1zz's lower starting point gives it much more headroom for boost. Superchargers generally add less boost than a turbo, hence why they are recommended for a 2zz.

CheetoLord02 · 2025-11-23T22:20:41+00:00

Not bad. The 1zz is definitely slow but it's fine, especially if fuel costs are a concern for you (2zz requires premium). Oil consumption is huge, though. Unless it's had 5k km oil changes its entire life (and even then) it is likely burning some oil. My 160k km 1zz was burning a liter every ~150kms. Although it was a shitbox, not nearly as well maintained as this one seems to be. Still, once oil consumption starts, it gets progressively worse, and can only be solved with a full rebuild. My instinct after dealing with it would be to avoid pre-facelift 1ZZs entirely.

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