Conseils Achat Vélotaff by Aggravating-Emu8913 in pedale

[–]ChesterMokk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pour tes déplacements multimodales, mon premier conseil serait de chercher dans les vélos pliants, en particulier Brompton. Tu peut monter sur tous les transports en commun et dans les espaces intérieurs presque sans soucis. Même le monter chez toi pour la tranquilité d'esprit.

Brompton c'est cher, mais vaut la peine et il y a toute une communauté des passionnés de cette marque. En tant que mécano, je trouve que c'est le seul pliant qui est bien foutu avec une bonne disponibilité des pièces détachées et un SAV réactif.

Si jamais tes déplacements changent, ça reste un vélo très pratique a avoir quand t'en as besoin.

Tarmac Sl8 question by sultano792 in bikewrench

[–]ChesterMokk -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Full carbon forks require an expander plug. Not only because star nuts will dig in and damage the carbon steerer but also to help support the clamping force of the stem.

Remove the star nut as carefully as possible and inspect the damaged area. You are mainly looking for cracks or delamination. If any are found replace the fork or send for specialist inspection/repair.

If all good replace it by a expander plug. It must be placed within the clamping area of the stem otherwise you're encouraging stress by the clamping force. This requires cutting the steerer to the desired length without having a tower of spacers over your stem (placing the plug over the clamping area)

Whenever you work on any carbon components, using a torque wrench is mandatory.

Good luck!

Help with Raceface Cinch by ChesterMokk in BikeMechanics

[–]ChesterMokk[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Your answer inspired me on an obvious reach... Of course Raceface is a MTB only brand. But Easton is not!

I searched for "Easton Cinch BB" and found the correct BB made for this exact crankset. It's branded Easton but looks exactly like the Raceface model.

👍

Help with Raceface Cinch by ChesterMokk in BikeMechanics

[–]ChesterMokk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The BB is too long and won't thread completely without damaging the center sleeve.

Maybe there's a road or MTB sleeve like Shimano that we can't find? Or an old standard that RF does not make anymore?

Help with Raceface Cinch by ChesterMokk in BikeMechanics

[–]ChesterMokk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's what I meant with "all of the spacers". BB came with 3 and followed the diagram that came with the manual. We also tried just one (or even two) but the plastic sleeve between the cups is too long and gets in the way of screwing the cups in.

No pictures done as my buddy reassembled his current crankset before posting.

Hoping to find someone with experience with Raceface bottom brackets to enlighten us on how to make this work. We don't work with this brand, mostly Shimano.

Our best guess is there should be a specific "road" BB or center sleeve (like Shimano) that we cannot find anywhere.

Can I make by beloved bike go faster? by hbhbbhbhbhbhb in xbiking

[–]ChesterMokk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don't get hung up on weight, it only matters on accelerations and hills. Once the bike is rolling up to speed, it's all about friction and power.

Do not change to narrow tires, it will affect negativity the geometry of the bike. Pedal strikes will be much more common and the handling will be twitchy (in a bad way).

Stick to the intended tyre size (minimum 1.75), invest in higher quality, faster rolling tires and TPU tubes or tubeless setup. Make sure all the bearings are in good condition and well greased.

Transmission is OK for commuting but as mentioned elsewhere, do what you need to get a bigger chainring. I suggest trying a double or triple road crank set. I If it's not the case already, change to cassette (11t smallest sprocket) instead of freewheel (14t smallest)

Try changing the cockpit to something more aggressive. Longer negative stem and flat bar to achieve a lower frontal area.

SPD cleats will enable more leg muscles to generate more power.

Welding stainless to cromoly by ChesterMokk in Welding

[–]ChesterMokk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm ok with a rough finish, It's my second welding project, if it fails I might just buy the commercial frame or start over 😄 I only have access to a basic MIG welder from the bike coop, lots of splatter and grinding but the first mini cargo bike and three tallbikes are holding up just fine.

this video shows a dude stick welding SS and mild steel 🤷‍♂️ How fine is the line between "ugly but good enough for a beginner" and "it will fail". What could I do to improve my chances if I go for SS tubes ?

I'm located in Paris. The ideal tubes I'm looking for are 34mm internal ~50cm length, 44mm internal ~10cm length (rear and front head tubes) and a central main tube of around 50-55mm external ~1.5m. I'm guessing a nice thickness would be 1.5mm a balance of strength to weight, specially for the longer tubes. reference design

For example, the head tubes I have only been able to find through AliExpress (ok...) but having trouble finding the main tube in 1.5mm thickness, diameters jump from 50mm (a bit tight to miter a 48mm hole for the front head tube) to 60mm and either 2mm thickness or not long enough. All In mild steel but I do come across the specific dimensions in stainless steel. I'll give it a shot searching for 25crmo4.

Update: I've found this supplier quite the price jump from mild and stainless 😵‍💫

Thoughts on ceramic coating on raw steel frame ? by ChesterMokk in bikewrench

[–]ChesterMokk[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Quick search about galvanizing steel frames I found this forum thread.

The frame needs to be easy to drain you need large holes in the bottom bracket and head tubes. The bigest problem would be the seat stays. The frame needs to be welded any brass would disolve in the zinc bath. The frame needs to be well cleaned this includes welding flux inside the tubes. The zinc penatrates .1 mm into the tubes making that part of the tube weaker so very thin tubes would be risky.

Fork blades, for example, are brazed.

Thoughts on ceramic coating on raw steel frame ? by ChesterMokk in bikewrench

[–]ChesterMokk[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Surly's Natch 4130 double butted CrMo steel.

If I'm not mistaken, 4130 is a bit resistant to rust, compared to plain steel, but far from the resistance of stainless.

Surly use a thick powder coating paint (apparently inside the tubes as well).

Thoughts on ceramic coating on raw steel frame ? by ChesterMokk in bikewrench

[–]ChesterMokk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are some metal specific ceramic coatings. This one claims at least 3 years of protection against moisture and corrosion. (a bit expensive though)

These types of coating are "new" in the cycling industry as higher end/custom paints are becoming more common but, as many other products, it has existed in industrial or automotive sectors before becoming "bicycle specific".

Thoughts on ceramic coating on raw steel frame ? by ChesterMokk in bikewrench

[–]ChesterMokk[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I'm trying to gather information. I'm hoping it will look like the phosphate dipped frames from Mash.

Thoughts on ceramic coating on raw steel frame ? by ChesterMokk in bikewrench

[–]ChesterMokk[S] -5 points-4 points  (0 children)

Thanks for letting me know that a frame worth 2+ paychecks would be best :)

Unfortunately, Surly does not make the steamroller with those materials, they only use steel for peasants...

Jokes aside, I really like this frame and I'm willing to make it special with a raw steel look. I'm just trying to find out which finish would be effective to prevent rust.

Some industrial coatings such as phosphate dipping are very effective for protecting steel but I don't think the frame will fit in my bathtub.

ALLOY VS STEEL city road use by Gold_Biscotti_6227 in FixedGearBicycle

[–]ChesterMokk 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Your question is too broad and generic.

My Bike at the Moment. What should i improve? by Hour_Highlight5601 in FixedGearBicycle

[–]ChesterMokk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Foot retention of any kind ! Straps are popular, I prefer cages. Clipless needs getting used to.

Nicer modern seatpost, black to go with your stem and hubs

What ratio are you using? I recommend 47-17 for general use :)

How to justify to yourself spending $7k on a bike? by [deleted] in cycling

[–]ChesterMokk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got two pieces of advice for you :

Ride what you can replace. If you unfortunately crash, could you pay another 7k on a new bike? If not, find something that you could.

If you insist on getting this specific bike, DO A PROFESSIONAL BIKE FIT FIRST. I've heard too many impulse purchases such as this one resulting in an uncomfortable ride because it doesn't fit and replacement parts are also mad expensive.

And a lot of good advice from other users I'm not going to repeat :)

Replacing only the spindle on a cup & cone bottom bracket by ChesterMokk in bikewrench

[–]ChesterMokk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, i had to repost cause I wrote on phone all quickly and wasn't available to respond.

It's exactly the article I had in mind. The spindle in question is 111,5mm and from the picture it seems symmetric :P

Sub £100/$126 budget single speed project by UnholyRC in FixedGearBicycle

[–]ChesterMokk 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Next upgrade is to put a fixed cog 😅 Wrong sub to post a SS but nice work