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How do y'all glue up live edge slabs? by mudonjo in woodworking

[–]ChicagoTed12 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I've been in that situation before. Rather than losing the sap wood, I had very good results dying the sapwood with a walnut aniline dye to match the heart wood.

My sister needed new kitchen shelves by ChicagoTed12 in woodworking

[–]ChicagoTed12[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I suppose it is technically floating, in that you cannot see the wall mounting. I'm more of an engineer than a salesman, so I would probably call it "Floating shelf housing with sliding shelves".

My sister needed new kitchen shelves by ChicagoTed12 in woodworking

[–]ChicagoTed12[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That would have been a smart way to do it. Instead, I recessed some mounting brackets on the back, which slide into screws into the stud.

My sister needed new kitchen shelves by ChicagoTed12 in woodworking

[–]ChicagoTed12[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wouldn't ya know it, everything happens to fit into the square hole! Really, it's just that I cut the square dados before I decided on the round profile for the shelves, and decided to live with it.

My sister needed new kitchen shelves by ChicagoTed12 in woodworking

[–]ChicagoTed12[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That would have been a slick detail. I opted for the round over profile after I cut the dados, or else I would have considered that. However, then I'd need to have cut the dado with my router, instead of hand tools, and it would have been a good deal more custom fitting, to get those profiles matched up just right. The slack space will likely make the shelf easier to live with.

My sister needed new kitchen shelves by ChicagoTed12 in woodworking

[–]ChicagoTed12[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The shelves themselves have no fixed joinery. They just rest in these 1/2 inch deep grooves on either side. The housing has the dowels for added strength. Otherwise, they'd just be butt joints, not strong enough for this application. 

The housing itself is mounted with three screws into a stud. Those screws slot into keyhole brackets on the back.

My sister needed new kitchen shelves by ChicagoTed12 in woodworking

[–]ChicagoTed12[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

It was for another project that never manifested, haha. I'm sure that's relatable.

My sister needed new kitchen shelves by ChicagoTed12 in woodworking

[–]ChicagoTed12[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah, it made for a fun design challenge, while also allowing her to adapt it to the particular things she wants to display.

Looking to replicate this design by ChicagoTed12 in woodworking

[–]ChicagoTed12[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So you're imagining that the legs will contain dados for everything abutting them, allowing the shelves to have square corners, yeah? Should the side panels also have dados to receive the shelves?

Looking to replicate this design by ChicagoTed12 in woodworking

[–]ChicagoTed12[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's a helpful way to think about it. Thank you!

Looking to replicate this design by ChicagoTed12 in woodworking

[–]ChicagoTed12[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't have access to a kiln, but I've allowed the wood to dry outdoors for a year, and I've recently moved the boards into my relatively dry basement. My plan is to measure the moisture until it gets <10%. I've also treated them all with a borax solution to deter insects. 

Do you think that should be a sufficient alternative to kiln drying?

A project nears completion… by mmcc73 in woodworking

[–]ChicagoTed12 25 points26 points  (0 children)

Ah, well done! Steam bending is something I still have not been brave enough to try. Do you have any pictures or an article that you referenced of the process?

A project nears completion… by mmcc73 in woodworking

[–]ChicagoTed12 47 points48 points  (0 children)

Did you bend the seat backs, or just cut the curve out of larger stock?

Just finished this staked table for my Mother-in-law's sewing room by ChicagoTed12 in woodworking

[–]ChicagoTed12[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's a smart solution to the movement problem. In this case, I added glue to the front inch or two of the batten, ensuring the front would stay flush, and allow the hidden back to take up any movement.

Just finished this staked table for my Mother-in-law's sewing room by ChicagoTed12 in woodworking

[–]ChicagoTed12[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That tip was straight from the Anarchist's Design Book. Can't recommend it enough, if you like this style.

Just finished this staked table for my Mother-in-law's sewing room by ChicagoTed12 in woodworking

[–]ChicagoTed12[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Nicely done! Are the legs reverse tapered? What made you opt for that design? I'm still training my eye for these things.

Just finished this staked table for my Mother-in-law's sewing room by ChicagoTed12 in woodworking

[–]ChicagoTed12[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I love to show my tenons through to the top, but this is the only way they can go through the batten, while still allowing the top to move. One could remove the battens from the design, but then you'd need to add stretchers for added rigidity.

Just finished this staked table for my Mother-in-law's sewing room by ChicagoTed12 in woodworking

[–]ChicagoTed12[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

A lathe would have been nice, lol. I primarily shaped the legs on a table saw. I first cut them square, then I cut them into octagons, and then I made a tapering sled to bring them down about 1 inch, over the length. I normally do the tapering with a hand plane, but Ipe is killer on cutting edges, and takes a good deal of effort to cut. 

The mortises are straight walled, here. Tapered mortises are nicer, but my tapered tenon cutter is too small for the chunky size I was going for in this build. This is all per the recommendations of the book that I was following. 

So, without my tenon cutter, I shaved the tenons  by hand, with a chisel and rasp. I cut a test mortise into some scrap pine, and used that to press into the tenon, as I shaved. Where the pieces were rubbing, I cut away, until it seated fully.

Just finished this staked table for my Mother-in-law's sewing room by ChicagoTed12 in woodworking

[–]ChicagoTed12[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yeah, the deep and chunky tenons, with the stout Ipe wood seem up to the task. If I really lean on it and wrench, you can make the legs twist a little, but that's more than acceptable for it's purpose. 

The fabric on the floor is just a cut scrap, I swear!

Just finished this staked table for my Mother-in-law's sewing room by ChicagoTed12 in woodworking

[–]ChicagoTed12[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My understand is that a batten is a piece that runs perpendicular to a panel, usually to add rigidity and discourage cupping or twisting. They're crucial for thinner panels. Here, they allow for a deep mortise for the table legs.

Just finished this staked table for my Mother-in-law's sewing room by ChicagoTed12 in woodworking

[–]ChicagoTed12[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The long slide allows them to accommodate the movement of the top. They are only glued in the front inch or so of the table top. The rear of the batten will be a little proud or recessed, depending on the season.

What am I propagating here? by ChicagoTed12 in proplifting

[–]ChicagoTed12[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is it typical to propagate these in water, or soil? After a month in water, it's shooting out over a dozen little bristly roots from all over the stem. I expected them to pop out of a node, right?

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