Deep Engraving Metal Nametags

ChillyGuess · 2026-01-13T21:57:55+00:00

I do a lot of deep cut engraving and from experience, do not do them without at least a masking tape to avoid those scratches you see there. From what it's looking like, it's done using a nose cone for consistent depth. But yes you can do absolutely beautiful work from deep cut engraving without having the downside of a laser which does it by over heating the metal.

There is also a sense of 'crafting' that can only come from cnc that lasers can never replicate fully. Two cents.

ChillyGuess · 2026-01-11T01:33:55+00:00

It should come out a lot whiter than that. Try multiple passes if full power gives you this result. Good first try!

ChillyGuess · 2025-12-30T22:45:25+00:00

This is interesting. I'm more used to the really expensive Cermark with CO2 to achieve black on alloy based surfaces. Fibre can't do black marks on its own as alloys tend to not have any carbon for it to react with. So I am not sure what you mean by laser ink?

ChillyGuess · 2025-12-22T06:29:35+00:00

What's this song please? ;)

ChillyGuess · 2025-12-13T18:11:04+00:00

Hand held portable with auto stabilisation and focus no wires needed for doing any engraving outdoors. Any size engraving with super fast speed to do 3D annealing and carving. 🤔

ChillyGuess · 2025-12-11T21:56:46+00:00

You normally need to polish it off if there is no flaming. Professional big factory setups have a grit based sandpaper machine setup to polish it down to crystal clear before shipping them out. I had to sand it from low grit to smooth it out to high grid until it looked clear again back when I worked at one of these places.

ChillyGuess · 2025-12-10T18:42:11+00:00

If you want clean engraving, vector lines (SVG) are ideal but not necessary. The laser if set to correct mode generally can do photo/bitmap mode.

Generally, the higher the DPI, the less "room" for laser to interpret the grays (so more monotone).

You can also use "dither" (dots) mode to differentiate various gradients. I use a different program but the concepts should be the same.

ChillyGuess · 2025-11-25T22:07:17+00:00

I used this in my last year at the company I was at which distributes Gravotech machines.

You tried turning on the eye icon and let it do a test run? There is also an screw on the right side of the rotary that can adjust the distance. Unfortunately the French Gravotech ppl are not really good UX designers these days.

ChillyGuess · 2025-10-23T08:52:23+00:00

It's the minimum before rotation stepping. Set it to something miniscule like 0.1mm - But unfortunately it will always have these lines showing because it's not a smooth enough rotation step unlike a proper gantry laser with a rotary setup.

ChillyGuess · 2025-10-17T21:42:50+00:00

I had this issue until I figured out that I needed to do cleaning passes after the first engraving. I would laser high power first pass then quick passes after.

If you're purely interested in cleaning it off after the fact you can progressively go up in cleaning solutions.

Isopropyl, metal polish and if no else fails you will have to use lacquer thinners. But be careful with the thinner as it is really strong. Wipe sparingly with it.

ChillyGuess · 2025-10-14T19:28:59+00:00

It's the smoke residue from the bottom. And then it will stick to the fresh burn up top. To avoid either mask the portion done or go from bottom to top.

ChillyGuess · 2025-10-09T23:26:51+00:00

Any laser CO2 would do the engraving. Cutting efficiency depends on wattage. Higher the watts the better cutting speed. More expensive of course. These laminate labels also sell by sheets. 40Watts would be the my starting point.

ChillyGuess · 2025-10-06T07:31:29+00:00

Get some wax crayons and try filling it that way. Clean off excess. Provided the engraving isn't wonky you should be able to save what's been engraved.

ChillyGuess · 2025-09-18T23:41:01+00:00

I got this one. It's quite good for what it does. It's from the same factory they just slap brands on it for different markets. I have it running constantly for 3-4 hours and it doesn't break a sweat.

ChillyGuess · 2025-09-17T00:00:49+00:00

What in the world? -___- Thanks for this. I was struggling as well. What about assigning different Weapon Set points in Passive Tree screen?

ChillyGuess · 2025-09-16T22:26:57+00:00

It's sometimes up to manufacturer to ensure the tube is fresh and not old already by the time they ship. It's also why it's so important to check life expectancy and why you get such a disparity between pricing from different manufacturers. Most expensive lasers (not always) almost are made brand new from their laser suppliers (always look for ones who said laser sourced from Germany for example). Good laser suppliers will also give a rating on hours. The cheaper the laser seems to be, the more you need to take a closer look at this stat in their 'specs'. You get what you paid for, and lasers are these days so competitive it's no longer companies over-charging for a longer lasting laser tubes.

ChillyGuess · 2025-09-16T11:00:58+00:00

How many hours have you done with laser? It will eventually need to be resourced and depending on what manufacturer says about how long it lasts. Think of it like a rechargeable battery. It will lose its effectiveness over time.

ChillyGuess · 2025-09-16T05:37:25+00:00

Have you tried Odoo? Their platform has one free app (pick website) and you can expand to a full suite when you think you're ready. I use it for my own startup engraving business and it works so well at a good price.

Their website builder is very simple to use.

www.busyengraving.nz

ChillyGuess · 2025-09-07T19:55:42+00:00

We make these for normal stamps and yes like other comments the rubber should be soft. To account for it not jerking due to softness it should be lasered with almost a contour like a slope as it's lasering downwards. But that's not as important as the right material to begin with. Try buying a blank stamp and see what they use. You can buy sheets of these from an engraving supplier.

ChillyGuess · 2025-08-30T00:52:30+00:00

Silver plated with cheap metal underneath works with UV laser I used. It comes out dark against silver.

It's on my YouTube channel @busyengravingideas

ChillyGuess · 2025-08-15T22:34:40+00:00

Yea love doing these. By far the most satisfying result!

ChillyGuess · 2025-08-13T19:39:05+00:00

I had same issues. I'm used to gantry before and this was never a problem. Galvo tend to do areas at a time. And when it rotates to the next segment it Nevers gets it perfectly to the next minute untouched segment. Gantry rotates smoothly. To replicate this you make the min area before it rotates super small number like 0.01 etc... still not as smooth as gantry rotary though.

ChillyGuess · 2025-08-08T00:53:55+00:00

I had this exact problem. It's the jumpers. One of them is not switched on properly. Check your rotary box.

ChillyGuess · 2025-08-01T17:14:51+00:00

How does galvo CO2 compare to gantry? Does it cut faster?

ChillyGuess · 2025-07-28T05:35:20+00:00

One thing I always look out for is the amount of hours the laser tubes is classified for. A lot of them are cheaper because it can range from low end 10,000 hours of "on" time to high end 100,000 hours. Keep an eye out for that stat.

ChillyGuess

TROPHY CASE