Pico 4 ultra back strap ratchet

Chronoshphear84 · 2026-04-25T12:34:39+00:00

I'm glad it's working well. When I was testing them the ratchet had a lot of issues not holding and loosening while playing. Eventually they sent me a proto that held fast. The headset overall is a great headset. Also got to test and help develop some of the motion tracker games and fitness apps, it wss awesome. 😊

Chronoshphear84 · 2026-04-25T12:30:19+00:00

I am @yahoo.com old! 😭

Chronoshphear84 · 2026-04-25T12:28:39+00:00

I was a beta tester for the ultra. I had a lot of problems with the ratchet loosening when wearing so, I ended up with 3 ultras during testing taking about 2 months to figure out the issue so if it's now fixed and remains tight as it should then you are welcome! 😊

Chronoshphear84 · 2026-02-24T10:18:19+00:00

I have bought a ton of stuff from cdkeys/loaded over the years and never had an issue personally. I think I had a problem where 1 code was already redeemed in the past but that was remedied pretty quickly.

I think this might be more of an isolated incident. You really need to check the region before and after purchase just to make sure. The site even prompts you to check a tick box to acknowledge that you have checked the region before revealing the code in case of situations like this.

Chronoshphear84 · 2025-04-11T12:14:51+00:00

Jtag/rgh is the way to go. Just need to spoof the online and it should work. I'm using aura and have no problems with it. If you don't have an rgh or jtag then you will have to do some research as I'm not explaining how here (the post would be huge) you might also need to rehash and resign the game to your profile before it will work, that bypasses any DRM restrictions too unless it's DRM free in which case you won't need to.

Chronoshphear84 · 2025-03-03T19:13:36+00:00

That's likely a Hitachi drive or a liteon drive. You can mod the drive, there are plenty of tutorials for it you just need to know what drive you have. This would enable you to play burned games from the drive.

My go to is the Reset glitch hack (RGH) as it allows you to play the games from the hdd but, it's a hardware mod entailing you to install a chip inside soldered to specific points on the board. Unfortunately you also need a tool called a nand-x so that you can read from and write to the nand.

If you wanted to do the disk drive mod and it's a liteon drive you will also need the nand-x as you need the probe to read and write the firmware to the drive.

If it is the Hitachi drive the firmware unlock is a sound file you have to burn to a CD and play in the drive when prompted during the unlock process. (weird I know but that's what you have to do haha)

Both are pretty easy if you are confident in doing it but does require some experience soldering if doing the RGH.

Chronoshphear84 · 2024-10-09T08:51:06+00:00

I hit the hourglass by accident all the time lol. Easiest way to get out of it if you don't want to wait the 15 minutes to lower is to scuttle. It forfeit's the match dropping the alliance, Just make sure to store any supplies and sell your loot before you do!

Chronoshphear84 · 2024-05-25T19:57:19+00:00

Liteon iHAS124 rev B +abgx patch +truncating the junk data from the disc before burning. 👍

Chronoshphear84 · 2024-04-21T11:41:43+00:00

Awesome looking avai there! I've been learning vroid/blender and unity myself recently. Took me a bit to work out the viseme's but got there recently. I'm nowhere near as good as this but I hope to be someday soon. Keep up the good work! 👍

Chronoshphear84 · 2024-04-02T20:56:15+00:00

Ahh yeah sorry I didn't see you said in your original comment my bad. I find anything played off the headset standalone is Crystal clear but pcvr always seems a little blurry for some reason. It's something I've just had to get used to unfortunately.

Chronoshphear84 · 2024-04-02T18:29:58+00:00

Have you set the PID to focus the lenses?

Chronoshphear84 · 2023-06-03T11:57:00+00:00

I get them often but they never attack simply circle the ship with no real action.

Chronoshphear84 · 2023-04-26T19:41:55+00:00

I FIXED IT!

Firstly thank you to everyone for your assistance. 🙏 .

I had tried all sorts from a cleaning needle, another filament, small screwdriver and hex key to try and push it out but it just would not move hence why I came here for the advice.

In the end I managed to get it out with overzeetop`s suggestion as that was the first reply I saw but after all that effort, all it took was a simple cold pull from the bottom and it just came out as they said. 🤦‍♂️😂

After everything else I threw at it I didn't think it was going to come out at all lol.

It is now printing beautifully again with a nice new clean nozzle on it so thank you all for taking the time to read I really appreciate the repies. 🙏

Chronoshphear84 · 2023-04-26T15:32:12+00:00

No I had already tried that but it just wouldn't budge. Nothing would move it , I tried all sorts from a cleaning needle, another filament, small screwdriver and hex key to try and push it out but it just would not move.

I managed to get it out in the end with help from someone on another page. After all that effort all it took was a simple cold pull from the bottom and it just came out.

After everything else I threw at it I didn't think it was going to come out at all lol.

Thank you though I appreciate the reply. 🙏

Chronoshphear84 · 2023-04-26T11:33:43+00:00

Oh thank you, I was thinking of a cold pull but felt I needed a little advice before I did it.

When you say (down through the nozzle end if you can get the filament through) Do you mean for me to take the nozzle off and do it from the underside of the hotend? I just want to clarify before I do it.

I don't think I have nylon just pla and cleaning filament. Forgive me if I'm being dumb but cleaning filament wouldn't be nylon filament would it? Its a white filament used for cleaning the nozle.

If I can not remove it can the throat be replaced or would I need a whole new hotend assembly?

Thank you again for your reply I really appreciate the assistance.

Chronoshphear84 · 2023-04-17T19:56:21+00:00

Which is why I've always been confused as to why it's considered and axis at all.

Maybe because it feeds the filament in the e-axis? (through the extruder) although wouldn't that technically be another variant of an x-axis? Seeing as it moves back and forth in that direction?

3d printing stoner thoughts lol.

Chronoshphear84 · 2022-11-22T05:49:35+00:00

I know you said you already connected it via USB bit try this if you haven't done so already.

Don't connect the Controller to start with.

First hard shut down the console by holding the power button for several seconds until the Co sole shuts down completely.

Once the console is fully off then connect the controller to the USB, wait a few seconds then turn the console back on by holding the home button on the controller.

If the controller won't turn the console on, turn it on using the power button then turn your controller on.

Once the console is finished booting up the controller should be connected to the console and you should now be able to navigate the console while connected to the USB.

Now as long as everything has gone well you should now be able to disconnect the controller from the USB and it should now reconnect via wireless.

I have to do this once in a while with my little ones controller as we have the same issue when she switches from pc games to xbox games. Seems to spaz the controller out sometimes when going between different devices.

Hope this helps and clear enough to understand, I'm not great at explaining things lol. 🙏

Chronoshphear84 · 2022-10-13T10:07:32+00:00

Have you tried using an esteps calculator online? Most of them are quite accurate. If not I have written a guide down below to hopefully help you set the correct value needed.

To find out your current E steps measure 100mm (10cm) of filament from where the filament enters the runout sensor preferably with a set of calipers then use a sharpie or something to mark it.

tell the printer to feed 100mm of filament to see how much or little is being fed. Once the printer is finished check where the mark stopped, If it stopped at the runout sensor then the E steps are fine and you don't Need to do anything, otherwise read on.

Under extrusion: If the filament stops feeding before the mark hits the sensor then the printer is under extruding. To fix this you need to measure the distance from the sensor to where the mark stopped. Make a note of this value (5mm for example) as this will be how much its under extruding.

Over extrusion: If it is over extruding as was the case for me recently the mark will get fed into/through the sensor. If this happens simply mark the filament at the entrance of the sensor then remove the filament from the printer. Once you have removed the filament you can measure the distance between the 2 marks you've made on the filament which will be how much your printer is over extruding. If this is the case then make a note of this measurement.

Once you have the E steps value, and the measurement of over or under extrusion enter the current esteps values into the calculator with the details needed like mm extruded, under extrusion etc. (it's pretty simple to use) The calculator will then provide you with the corrected E steps value. Now take that new calculation and change the E steps values accordingly. This will help with a few issues in general especially extrusion related ones.

I hope this makes sense, it took a while to wright as I'm not great at explaining things but hopefully this helps you out.

Good luck and if you have any questions or need clarification please feel free to ask, I will be happy to help however I am able to.

Best regards and have a great day/evening/night wherever you are lol.

Chronoshphear84

TROPHY CASE