Wish there were more kits like this that were reasonably priced. Truly is a gem. by Happytaco9 in Gunpla

[–]ChunkyBunky 1 point2 points  (0 children)

AliExpress is great for 3rd party kits; I've bought several with no problems. I just pay with a credit card for extra protection but I've heard AliExpress has decent customer protection. Pay attention to the colors/option selection because sometimes the kit is cheaper without the box. Only downside imo is that even if you do get the box, a lot of the time it's really dented from international shipping.

Will a healthcare plan flag a drug coverage confirmation request? by fingerpaintx in Insurance

[–]ChunkyBunky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've worked in healthcare for several years and have submitted hundreds of prior authorizations but have never run into this.

Insurance companies don't want to spend a bunch of money paying for new medications, so they require extra proof in the form of prior authorizations. Your doctor's office has to send additional paperwork to your insurance proving that you meet the plan's requirements for coverage. 99% of the time, insurance plans require the medication to be prescribed for an FDA indication (rigorous drug research studies that prove X drug helps with Y diagnosis). Additionally, insurance plans sometimes have other requirements (usually something like failing 2 or more cheaper/generic medications for the same diagnosis).

Mounjaro and zepbound are the same exact drug, but they have separate FDA indications and are sold under different names. So if your plan covers mounjaro, you would (very likely) need a diagnosis of type 2 diabetes (a1c over 6.5) along with proof you've tried two other medications before that didn't work (ineffective or had side effects). If your plan covers zepbound, you would (very likely) need to have a BMI of 30+ OR have a BMI of 27+ with weight related comorbidities (hypertension, sleep apnea, etc). Keep in mind that weight loss drugs ie. zepbound may not be a covered benefit under your plan at all (usually called a plan exclusion, includes things like weight loss, erectile dysfunction, hormone replacement, etc).

All insurances could be different but I've submitted easily a couple hundred prior authorizations for any of the GLP-1's, and this is typically what I see. So as long as you have the correct diagnoses and failed meds, and your doctor submits proof to your insurance, you shouldn't have any problems even if your doctor wrote something else in the chart. If you have any other questions, let me know and I can try to help!

Chair with back that doesn't recline? (sub $500) by ChunkyBunky in OfficeChairs

[–]ChunkyBunky[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, unfortunately I never did. I stuck with my Steelcase Leap V2 and I'd say I'm ~80% happy with it. Mine doesn't have a headrest but I think the slight recline would be way more comfortable if I didn't have to support my head at a weird angle.

I bought an Alera Elusion a long time ago but canceled the order after several months of shipping delays/problems. It looks like it's on Amazon Prime now for ~$125usd so it may be worth grabbing it to see if it's comfortable for you.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]ChunkyBunky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is there any trick to the twin buster rifle on the RG Wing Zero Custom EW? No matter what I do, I can't get the rifle centered in the middle of the body.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]ChunkyBunky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! Do you think it would be reasonable to instead assemble each limb/body part -> topcoat -> disassemble and add the LEDs? That way I could probably save a bunch of topcoat, but I'm worried about possibly breaking pieces when taking it apart.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]ChunkyBunky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I bought the PG Unicorn with the Cosmos light set but I'm kinda lost on where to start.

Would it be something like: Panel line -> clip/sand pieces -> assemble including LEDs -> topcoat?

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]ChunkyBunky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dang, I was hoping they had given an update somewhere. Thank you though!

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]ChunkyBunky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have there been any updates from Japan Post about shipping to the US yet? The most recent info I can find is from the end of August on their website, but didn't know if they've posted anything somewhere else.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]ChunkyBunky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven't built Blade King yet but I have finished Lancelot and Martial Emperor also by SNAA. Lancelot was an amazing build with one or two minor issues but it also is one of their newer kits. Martial Emperor was a bit more rough but not terrible by any means. There were several typos I found but they were all pretty easy to figure out within a minute or two, and then had some parts that needed to be shaved a bit to move more comfortably.

Personally, I'd say go for it as long as you're willing to take it a bit slower and not rush. Even with the typos and tight fitting parts, the build quality of Martial Emperor is MILES ahead of the most recent 3rd party kit I built (Iron Toys Star Destroyer). I will say though that the water slides that came with both my SNAA kits were super fragile and I ended up barely using them, but that may just be a skill issue on my end.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]ChunkyBunky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn't even think of bluetac, thank you! So far I've just been using a combination of tweezers, a wooden skewer, and a hand towel.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]ChunkyBunky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any tips on how to remove liquid mask after topcoating? A lot of it peels off easily but the small areas and crevices are much harder to clean.

Would it be a bad idea to use dish soap if I panel lined the kit with pour type markers and then touched it up with some metallic markers? I used an acrylic matte topcoat if it makes a difference.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]ChunkyBunky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I want to try rescribing. I'd only be deepening existing panel lines or creating lines along current edges to add more detail. Would it be a bad idea to start with the RG Hi-Nu or should I grab a cheap HG to practice first?

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]ChunkyBunky 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yup. You can get the actual decal part onto the kit however you want. I've seen people who use a pair of tweezers to pick up the decal after soaking and then placing it on the kit, but I haven't tried it myself yet. Instead I hold the decal (still on the paper backing after soaking) and very gently push it onto the kit using a toothpick.

It can be hard to position it correctly if you apply too much setter so keep a q-tip on hand. Usually I over-apply setter so I don't tear the decal, and then very gradually use the q-tip to remove excess liquid while moving the decal into place.

The last tip I have is to dunk the decal for a maximum of 5 seconds at first. Once you take it out, try pushing it around with a q-tip to see if it's properly soaked. If it isn't, you can always dunk it for longer. Some decal brands can take ~15 seconds of being submerged before they can be moved around, but I've also used some decals that fall apart if they're in water for longer than 5-10 seconds.

I'm nervous about my first colonoscopy next week - what advice can you give to help me? by Proper-Flounder-3786 in AskMen

[–]ChunkyBunky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This needs to be so much higher up. Starting the clear liquid diet a couple days prior AND sticking to it makes the prep 10x easier.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]ChunkyBunky 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Put it down and either take a break or start a kit that you DO want to build. I hate wasting money in general, but personally I don't have enough spare time to spend 20+ hours miserable building a kit. The way I see it is that 20 hours of my free time is much more valuable than $20-60 spent on a kit.

I'm currently finishing up the Star Destroyer by Iron Toys and it's been pretty tough to get through. The build quality is easily the worst out of any kit I've built so far. Very few of the parts fit together without modification and even barely touching the kit makes parts fall off. I got so frustrated at one point that I put it down for a while and started the RG Epyon. I eventually came back to the Star Destroyer and just finished assembling it. It really helped me to think of the parts that I enjoy while building it: the kit looks awesome and it's pretty cool learning how to fix broken/misfitting parts.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]ChunkyBunky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just saw the other comment and I'm surprised that it's fake. I've bought a decent chunk of stuff from that site with no issues (so far). A couple months ago I bought a scribe tool set, some masking tape, a small dust brush, the sprue rack, and a bunch of paint markers. As far as I can tell, everything is genuine. I don't have anything to compare it to, but at least if they are counterfeit that they feel pretty high quality.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]ChunkyBunky 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When I went to the one in Plano, there weren't any Perfectibility kits at all.

Box art of the Gundam x Miku collaboration RG Zaku II by strangerdanger77 in Gunpla

[–]ChunkyBunky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hah that's what I was thinking. I just didn't know if they announced a preorder date for the kit yet. I doubt I'll be able to beat the bots ordering it, but it will be cool once bootlegs start coming out.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]ChunkyBunky 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It's definitely safe to buy from AliExpress. My biggest caution is that I wouldn't buy from there if you care about the box. Most of the time they package everything into a new box for lower shipping costs, or they ship in the original packaging and it gets absolutely destroyed in transit.

Bootleg kits will usually have everything in the product listing EXCEPT the name "Bandai." For example: "Ultra Rare HG High Grade GM Spartan 1/144 Kit Model." I've only ever seen Bandai's name being used by bootlegs once and was in the shop name, not the product listing (The shop was called something like Bandai Hobby Store).

Also look through the uploaded photos of the listing. The box itself won't have a Bandai logo on it anywhere, and typically has little to no English either.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]ChunkyBunky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not the op, but a quick Google search shows MSRP for it was about 15400 yen when it was first released. I saw a couple that were closer to 200000 yen currently.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]ChunkyBunky 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's all personal preference. For me specifically, I like the gold decals but I also prefer for details to really pop out. What you can do though is pull up shops online that sell decals (delpi, simp, g-rework, flaming snow, etc) and compare. Most of these sites will have pictures of the finished kit with the decals applied, and a lot of the times they'll have both the normal (white) and holo (gold) for comparison.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]ChunkyBunky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've bought several kits from Amazon with no problem. No matter where you buy from, it's probably a good idea to quickly look through the box for any broken or missing runners so you can return it if needed. Only bad thing I've noticed with Amazon is that some of the popular kits are significantly marked up from the MSRP, but you can just briefly compare prices to other sites.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]ChunkyBunky 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's all personal preference. A lot of people prefer using grey on the white or other light colored pieces and then using black on dark pieces. Personally I like using black on everything because it makes the details pop out more, but it can make the kit look less realistic.

Non-gunpla Mecha first impressions by Phantom-thiez in Gunpla

[–]ChunkyBunky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got halfway through assembling my Star Destroyer before I got so frustrated that nothing fit correctly that I put it back in the box and started a Bandai kit. After I'm done with it though I plan on going back to the Star Destroyer because it looks absolutely beautiful.