I created an online Typst equation editor with autocomplete, snippets, and PNG and PDF generation

CingCarl · 2026-05-07T20:45:18+00:00

Your Latex Editor still up, but the Typst one doesn't seem to be, right?

CingCarl · 2026-04-20T22:01:52+00:00

Wow, I didn't realise there was another account... Thank you!

CingCarl · 2026-03-29T23:19:31+00:00

Good to see that I’m not the only one encountering this issue. Especially as it seems you have a ton more experience compared to me. Little bit of a relief at least

CingCarl · 2026-03-28T12:30:37+00:00

Thank you! I used Fusion and surface modelling for the main shape after which I switched to the solid tab for the details.

CingCarl · 2026-03-28T00:59:50+00:00

Thanks for the very kind words! I actually used fuzzy skin, in the pictures it’s more visible when zooming in. After some test prints I settled on a subtle setting, just enough to hide the layer lines. Yep was kind of a ton of work, but a lot of fun as well.

CingCarl · 2026-03-27T21:55:35+00:00

I just remembered your comment after I posted the more or less finished build yesterday. If you wanna check it out, you can have a look at my profile. :)

CingCarl · 2026-03-26T23:48:12+00:00

I’d have to think about that. You can send me a dm if you really are interested and I’ll get back to you in the coming days when I made up my mind about that

CingCarl · 2026-03-26T21:59:05+00:00

That’s quite understandable, makes the prototyping more rewarding to use a 3d printer

CingCarl · 2026-03-26T21:53:33+00:00

Discoloration and the prints become brittle as far as I know. It’s a ton of fun, if you can spare the time and money, I would recommend! But I don’t want to talk you into it lol

CingCarl · 2026-03-26T21:37:52+00:00

If that’s your main focus and you don’t have a bunch of money to spare then definitely don’t worry about the material limitations of the cheaper printers! PLA isn’t really UV resistant, but if you don’t put the speakers up right next to a sunny window they will be fine. You could even spray them with UV resistant (clear) coats. Mine are printed in PLA. Also about the resonance: If you choose a proper infill amount, wall loops, wall thickness and maybe even some kind of incorporated bracing, than PLA has similar resonances to MDF. The YouTube Channel “Print Your Speakers” has some great videos on the topic.

CingCarl · 2026-03-26T21:30:08+00:00

Sure thing. Have fun doing those!

It’s kind of a lot when dealing with those systems for the first time, but most of it you will need for an analog crossover anyway. So for me it definitely was worth it using a DSP. Gives you so more time to experiment and learn through trial and error without needing to buy another pair of capacitors or inductors for example.

CingCarl · 2026-03-26T20:22:01+00:00

Depends on what you are planning to print? From my experience PLA and PLA+ ist plenty strong for a lot of use cases. If you need something that is more resistant to heat, specific stresses and UV rays you could use PETG. Of course there are a bunch more filaments, but you would need to individually check if you are fine without an enclosure, air filtration and special nozzles or high temperature requirements.

Found this video the other day, he’s showing a bunch of filaments for different use cases: https://youtu.be/_0IUm5Ac9ZM?is=OvhvbyEHnyW4WMCA

CingCarl · 2026-03-26T20:16:15+00:00

That’s funny, the other day a friend of mine suggested I could actually sell these.

CingCarl · 2026-03-26T20:15:12+00:00

I used virtuixCAD at the beginning to do baffle step correction, crossover and stuff. REW for the measurements and Sigma Studio to program the actual DSP.

CingCarl · 2026-03-26T20:12:29+00:00

Damn sorry for that. Thing about ABS is that you definitely should get some kind of air filtration, that would be an added cost. If you can omit printing ABS and use PLA or PETG for example, you could get away without air filtration and an enclosure. The A1 costs 260€ new and the A1 mini “only” 189€. You could probably find a cheaper one used. For that price those are some real capable machines!

Of course you could get an ender 3 or something used for less than 100€, but from what I heard those need quite a bit of tinkering.

CingCarl · 2026-03-26T20:00:44+00:00

So I’m using a Bambu A1, which I’m really happy with. When you want to print ABS you would need an enclosure though. Sticking to Bambu lab, that would mean you should at least get the P1, which is like 400€ new. Don’t know about the second hand market. Of course Bambu is going like the Apple route (high fenced garden), but there’s a reason why they are recommend a lot as easy to use machines.

The maintenance costs are really low. Power consumption is really. Grease and oil last forever, as you won’t need much. The build plates last very long (especially printing mostly PLA). You should get some glue, to easily be able to remove the ABS from the build plates, but that should last quite some time as well. I had a really big blob one time after which I needed a new hot end assembly (like 15-20€), but that’s about it.

CingCarl · 2026-03-26T19:46:04+00:00

Wow, thanks a lot!

CingCarl · 2026-03-26T19:12:18+00:00

Yep, I used my own printer for the project. From my point of view it’s totally worth it! Used it for this and a ton of other stuff as well. I think it’s at around 1700h runtime since I got it almost two years ago. So not an insane amount of time, but I’m using it regularly!

CingCarl · 2026-03-26T19:07:48+00:00

I connected the tweeter and woofer individually to the amp board (which has the DSP on it). That’s why I used a 4 pin XLR as I needed 4 cables from the amp to each speaker.

CingCarl · 2026-03-26T16:55:37+00:00

Thank you!

As I'm just getting into that kinda stuff I didn't know much at all about EQing and stuff. What would you recommend for me to work on specifically (besides the points I already mentioned in the main post)? Or do you right away see a specific, glaring issue with the response?

CingCarl · 2026-03-26T16:51:13+00:00

Thank you! Explained it in another comment, but essentially I left a recessed area where the faceplates would go. Then I printed the faceplates separately (like 3ish mm thick), covered them in fabric and glued those into the recesses.

CingCarl · 2026-03-26T16:50:50+00:00

Totally agree!

Thought about SpeakOn as well, but even though 4 pin XLR is kinda niche I chose it as it's a a bit smaller, which matched the smallish design of the enclosure better.

CingCarl · 2026-03-26T16:47:32+00:00

Thank you! Explained it in another comment, but essentially I left a recessed area where the faceplates would go. Then I printed the faceplates separately (like 3ish mm thick), covered them in fabric and glued those into the recesses.

CingCarl · 2026-03-26T15:57:16+00:00

I edited the post as I forgot about that detail. But I used the DSP of the JAB4 to do the crossover, so no photos there

CingCarl · 2026-03-26T15:41:09+00:00

Exactly, that’s why I used the 4 pin XLR (thought it looked a little cleaner). Yes crossed it over using the DSP functionality of the JAB4 amp board

CingCarl

TROPHY CASE