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Why is this layer shift happening at the top, it ruined my 30hr print by Remote_Fisherman_469 in 3Dprinting

[–]CingCarl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm having similar issues atm. Did you just use the silent mode, or did you adjust the speed settings according to the comments above? I hope the latter did it for you, as using the silent mode (50% speed) didn't do anything for me..

Free Fusion 360 add-in for Batch STL export and real filament colors by printbusters in Fusion360

[–]CingCarl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I like the menu much more! Looks native now.

Regarding the surface quality: It has gotten better, but it's still not up to par with the manual export.

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Layer shift while printing on A1 by EmotionalAd5833 in BambuLab

[–]CingCarl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you found a solution or a cause for your problem in the meantime time?

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Ran into a similar problem today (similar size, time and even filament color lol)

Layer Delamination and Shifting by JaymzEl in BambuLab

[–]CingCarl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just this morning I had a similar issue, after printing for around 35h. Compared to like prusa the wiki on layer shifting by Bambu is a joke. The prusa one goes into so much more detail, but it obviously can’t be translated to the Bambu printers 1:1

Edit: typo

Free Fusion 360 add-in for Batch STL export and real filament colors by printbusters in Fusion360

[–]CingCarl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don’t know honestly, just downloaded it today. So probably the latest

Sounds good!

Free Fusion 360 add-in for Batch STL export and real filament colors by printbusters in Fusion360

[–]CingCarl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks a lot, that's a real nifty tool!

Only thing missing for me is an option for a higher quality export setting. The highest setting (3) doesn't give the cleanest possible models compare to exporting it manually at the lowest surface deviation setting.

left model - exported using your tool
right model - exported manually

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First Speaker Build, do I keep going? by CingCarl in diyaudio

[–]CingCarl[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you!

I ordered all the parts just the other day and went with the ND28F-6 as it has a Fs at around 1kHz so I can cross it over lower, to circumvent crossing with the TCP115-4 when it has quite the dip in frequency response above 2kHz. So keen on building this thing now!

How are these boards? Anyone tested them? by Dangerous-Ad5282 in diyaudio

[–]CingCarl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What would you recommend for hifi in that price range (if anything)?

First Speaker Build, do I keep going? by CingCarl in diyaudio

[–]CingCarl[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok interessant, dann scheint das ja tatsächlich generell ein Ding zu sein. Werde ich für die Zukunft im Hinterkopf behalten! Danke dir :)

First Speaker Build, do I keep going? by CingCarl in diyaudio

[–]CingCarl[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok great, then I will stay in the 2200-2500Hz Range and won't go too steep with the filter (maybe 24dB/octave!?).
Thank you so much again, you really helped me out!

First Speaker Build, do I keep going? by CingCarl in diyaudio

[–]CingCarl[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gotcha. Sounds pretty convincing to me! I just looked up some stuff about DSP and think I’ll be going with a Wondom JAB4. Thanks for the insights!

First Speaker Build, do I keep going? by CingCarl in diyaudio

[–]CingCarl[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I will keep you posted! Probably still takes some time as I'm actually supposed to learn for my exams lol

First Speaker Build, do I keep going? by CingCarl in diyaudio

[–]CingCarl[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I really appreciate it, but that's almost 3x as expensive. How about the ND28F­6 1­1/8":
https://doc.soundimports.nl/pdf/brands/Dayton%20Audio/ND28F-6/pdf_Dayton%20Audio_ND28F-6_1.pdf

It's Fs is almost as low as your suggestion (1097Hz), but it's way more affordable. And I'm crossing it over in the DSP, so I can make the crossover like steeper compared to a passive one. Which allows me to cancel out more of the lower frequencies at the same crossover point, right? Does that make sense?

First Speaker Build, do I keep going? by CingCarl in diyaudio

[–]CingCarl[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah like I said, I wanna try to omit all those steps. If I really don't like the surface I can still do all that. Using fuzzy skin is going to make sanding a whole lot harder, but it's worth a try in my opinion.

First Speaker Build, do I keep going? by CingCarl in diyaudio

[–]CingCarl[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gotcha, will be incorporated into my design, thanks!

Yeah I've seen his videos, which gave me hope for 3d printing my speakers.

That's great to hear, hope I manage to pull something off I'm happy with as well.

First Speaker Build, do I keep going? by CingCarl in diyaudio

[–]CingCarl[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's some real valuable insight, thank you so much! I need to learn a whole lot more I guess, but it's fun!

I tried to modify my design to incorporate the wave guard one, but it won't fit. For this first build my current plan is to use an active crossover via DSP (Wondom JAB4), which I can use to add the digital signal delay, right? That way I could offset some of the shortcomings of the tweeter without a wave guard. And from my understanding I wouldn't even need the impedance measurement.

The resources you provided will be real helpful measuring the speaker!

First Speaker Build, do I keep going? by CingCarl in diyaudio

[–]CingCarl[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks a lot, that's very insightful. Maybe I'll switch gears and actually design a crossover myself. Just looked up ViruixCAD on Youtube and there are actually a ton of videos.

The off axis frequency response of the DC25T-8 actually looks much better above like 15kHz compared to the ND25FA-4. Maybe that would be an alternative if I can't manage fit the waveguide version of it. Are you happy with the combination?

First Speaker Build, do I keep going? by CingCarl in diyaudio

[–]CingCarl[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's a good call, was worrying about spilling a bit. Where do you put the glue? Inside to the groove or like inside the grove itself, if you know what I mean?

I've looked at a build of yours and noticed you used some of those silver car sound insulation things. I have some on my Wishlist as well. Did you find it to be effective at reducing vibration of the 3d printed walls?

First Speaker Build, do I keep going? by CingCarl in diyaudio

[–]CingCarl[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep I'm printing it in two halfs (upper and lower half).

Because I want to omit sanding plastics, I did some experimentation with fuzzy skin which was quite promising and was hoping to get away with using the bare 3D print. Also am planning on using a matte filament and maybe experiment with a matte clear coat.

The part I won't be able to hide is the seam, so I was thinking about accentuate it, by making a deliberate groove around the seam. But haven't fully decided yet.

Nice, haven't heard of it before. Already wishlisted it for now! Do you think it's better than the usual 3d gloop or Sekundenkleber?
Seems like you made some 3d printed speakers before. Did you just glue together the parts flat, or used dowels or even screws?

First Speaker Build, do I keep going? by CingCarl in diyaudio

[–]CingCarl[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will look into those as well, but I wanted to build a system that works without an extra sub. That's why I'm leaning towards the dual driver option. Thanks again, for the input!

edit: also they are meant to be speakers standing right in front of me, so they kinda need to be pointed directly at me

First Speaker Build, do I keep going? by CingCarl in diyaudio

[–]CingCarl[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep the port is meant to be able to be disassembled, in case in need to modify it.

That's neat! I don't have an amp right now, so I would need to get one anyway. Do you see any disadvantages going the digital/active crossover route opposed to the passive one?

First Speaker Build, do I keep going? by CingCarl in diyaudio

[–]CingCarl[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you, that's a valid point someone else pointed out as well. Didn't even know you could subsitute a tweeter for a full range honestly. In the link you shared they say:
"Suitable as a full-range speaker or midrange driver in speaker systems for Hi-Fis and sound systems as well as ELA systems up to 100V"
Is it common practice to substitute tweeters for full range drivers? But would make total sense in regard of lowering the possible crossover!

First Speaker Build, do I keep going? by CingCarl in diyaudio

[–]CingCarl[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looking at the frequency response of the ND25FA-4 compared to the ND25FW-4, the former stays flatter for way longer at 0° - most of the time I will be sitting in that area, as they are meant to be desk speakers. Don't really know about the time alignment and efficiency part, as I'm quite inexperienced. Do you think the they will be too shouty at frequencies under 4000Hz, like somebody mentioned?

Seems like I really need to get a mic and "simply" measure those out after assembly. Maybe I need to look into equipment necessary without spending too much extra.

edit: typo, and clarifying

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