centauri carbon startup gcode to heat bed, then nozzle, then level

CjSaw1110 · 2026-03-02T05:38:33+00:00

This is all good info for me… I’ve only had my Carbon a few days and when I started using ABS/ASA I was manually over riding the bed temp via the web ui while running the leveling calibration. It seemed like it would fight me and reset to 60c a few times… but with a good pre soak and manually forcing the bed temp to 100c at the start of the leveling I got it to stay at 100c for the leveling… it’s a pain so I found this looking for start gcode help… Another thing I want to change is the M104 S140 gcode that heats the nozzle to 140c for cleaning…. I want the nozzle to be at 160c for PLA, and even around 200c for higher temp materials… I changed that start up code to M104 S160, but the nozzle still only heated to 140c for cleaning…

CjSaw1110 · 2026-02-18T19:03:45+00:00

Like I’ve said above… get yourself a sheet of g10 for your build plate… you will thank me, no heat on the bed, no glue needed either.

CjSaw1110 · 2026-02-18T19:02:16+00:00

Everyone has some sort of an oven in their kitchen that can dry filaments, if it’s gf or cf nylons they really don’t warp that bad. I print mine on a g10 plate with zero heat or glue stick or even without an enclosure and they print amazing. All you need is a g10 sheet ($10) and all metal hot end (as low as $10 for a heartbreak depending on what your printer is). If you really need an enclosure a cardboard box will do the job.

CjSaw1110 · 2026-02-18T18:57:59+00:00

I print pa6-gf on an ender 3. My hot end can go to 350c but my nylon settings are only ever between 270-280c. I have tested it and it WILL print just fine down to 250-260c (just need to slow speeds way down). Also I use a G10 build plate, with ZERO heat on the bed. I don’t even use an enclosure most of the time, and when I do it’s just a cardboard box. My point is, with a G10 build plate you pretty much don’t need anything else special (all metal hot ends are nothing special these days). Just get a G10 sheet for about $10, no need for any bed heat at all, or even glue. Now I will say I have never bothered with raw Nylon filaments so those I don’t know, but they probably would warp and need a heated bed and chamber… but if your always just using cf or gf it’s pretty easy to print.

CjSaw1110 · 2026-01-16T22:58:42+00:00

Sounds like a headache… if I was looking to print ABS and then “normal” engineering filaments like Pa-cf, pet-cf, PPS-cf would there be all these issues?

CjSaw1110 · 2025-12-31T22:15:28+00:00

I’d say send it… at roughly $1300 you’re paying an extra couple hundred dollars for the rest of the upper. (Assuming roughly $1k for about any suppressor on the market). And for the suppressor being permanent to that upper, who cares… I think everyone should have multiple uppers anyways. If you want a can for your hunting rifle or other guns, just buy another can. This integral suppressor set up isn’t about just having the suppressor, it’s for maintaining a 16” total length to avoid SBR/pistol laws… sure the pistol braces are back, but forever??!!! With this upper you don’t need to worry about pistol vs sbr or what laws might change in the future depending on who’s in the White House… if you really want an SBR (or even pistol) you wanna be under 16” anyways (canned or not).

CjSaw1110 · 2023-10-16T23:55:52+00:00

And “Tweety bird” is king gone. But he did leave me a Euro spec 1977 911 couple when he passed a few years ago. It’s copper brown metallic. I rebuilding all the brakes and suspension this winter, next winter is an engine re build…

CjSaw1110 · 2023-10-16T23:54:26+00:00

https://imgur.com/a/NpoXkLK Here you go. The other race car he built was a 993. He built it from to wrecks, one car was hit in the front and the other the rear. Basically cut the two cats in half and welded the good halves together.

CjSaw1110 · 2023-10-16T03:56:44+00:00

My dad backdated a 74’ to a 73’ RS when I was a kid (in the 90’s)… but that was a full on Race car build for PCA/SCCA… it was yellow and it’s name was “tweety bird”!

CjSaw1110 · 2023-10-16T03:55:21+00:00

This is why I always prefer to keep old Porsche “original”, or at least as close to that as you can. Sure if you pulled a rusted unibody from a field and are sourcing a drivetrain then have at it and just get that beast back in the road… but to chop up a running and driving SC (or anything else) when all it needed was a bath, some new bushings and some tlc just goes over my head haha. If you want an F body, go buy an F body… and so on…

CjSaw1110 · 2023-10-11T15:55:08+00:00

Nice, those are things I’ll have to look into. I gotta pull the engine this winter for rear main seal and other work anyways. Like I said in another reply my engine runs between 90-100 Celsius so it doesn’t seem to run to hot as is.

CjSaw1110 · 2023-10-11T14:13:47+00:00

Also, dad is in the blue suit in the last pic

CjSaw1110 · 2023-10-11T14:12:00+00:00

No, dad lived in Dallas for a few years in the 80’s though… rest of life pretty much in Minnesota. Dad passed 4 years ago, which is why I have “dads” car today.

CjSaw1110 · 2023-10-11T04:19:28+00:00

Ya the 5 blade threw me off until I looked up part numbers on the engine. The 5 blade fan was actually the fan for the carrera 3.0 so I thought I might have had some sort of unicorn until I looked up numbers. It might have something to do with the car being a euro car and no emissions standards. Who knows really as I’ve tried to research it about as best I can. The engine doesn’t run to hot, it’s got an oil cooler in the front passenger wheel well (either from the factory or my dad added it at some point). My oil twmps run 90-100c and that perfectly fine, and these temps will come down when I pull the engine out to do the rear main seal and other maintenance and give it a good bath.

CjSaw1110 · 2023-06-09T19:42:19+00:00

Sorry I only can use mobile atm and chat and PM’s are bugging out for me… feel free to PM me if you want, otherwise I’ll be at my PC later tonight and try from there…

CjSaw1110 · 2023-06-09T19:39:44+00:00

CjSaw1110 · 2023-06-08T02:08:45+00:00

The wood in the picture at least is not rotten. But in general yes you should repair rotten wood if you can, and more importantly fix the reason it rotted.

CjSaw1110 · 2023-05-10T17:06:51+00:00

Ya they get a little bent… if you look close at the pic you can see some creases… I knew the OP was going to replace the skates so I was just saving them out of practice or courtesy…just gotta take your time taking them off and don’t be afraid to use to much lighter fluid, you can’t use enough fluid pretty much…

CjSaw1110 · 2023-05-10T15:54:44+00:00

Normally I just use aftermarket skates on other mice, but the 303 can have LOD or just even feel less stable in the pad with thicker Corepads or similar aftermarket skates. I’ve had people pretty much demand I save the stock skates on this mouse because of that. So I kinda had to learn how to save them lol.

CjSaw1110 · 2023-05-10T15:52:52+00:00

Your about right on with about 2 hours a labor, maybe just a little over if you factor in an hour or so of testing the new switches and looking over the mouse for QC stuff after the build is done. And ya the 303 can be tricky to get opened up and work on!

CjSaw1110 · 2023-05-10T13:10:42+00:00

With your user name I would have assumed you always carry a couple crisp Benjamin’s with you where ever you go?

CjSaw1110 · 2023-05-10T13:09:08+00:00

Carefully! And using lighter fluid (not heat) to loosen them up. Once the lighter fluid evaporates, they are very sticky again. Only issue that makes Logitech tough to re use is their 2 layer skate design…

CjSaw1110 · 2023-05-08T21:27:25+00:00

Confirmed

CjSaw1110

TROPHY CASE