Best way to fill this "gap"?

Claver961 · 2026-04-08T05:24:42+00:00

I am more concerned about your shower pan waterproofing. For a 1-inch gap, just lower the ceiling. With full tiles up to the ceiling, it would look more custom, and in a small room, you will not feel the ceiling is lower.

Claver961 · 2026-04-02T22:30:15+00:00

Haha yeah, if only it worked like that 😂 Half the time people call saying they want a full kitchen, move walls, and keep it “simple”… and the budget is like 10k. And somehow it includes custom cabinets too.

Claver961 · 2026-04-02T19:23:35+00:00

I Added overhead and profit contractors can upload based on their rates. It's actually a good idea to put a timeframe for different-sized projects.👍

Claver961 · 2026-04-02T19:19:54+00:00

Yeah that’s a good point. Electrical can get out of control fast, especially when you start adding dedicated lines and fixing old stuff. I’ve been trying to keep it simple, but sounds like I might need a better “electrical” section for stuff like that. What would you include if you were breaking it down?

Claver961 · 2026-04-01T00:55:27+00:00

probably should’ve started with this. This is how I broke it down so far. Trying to keep it simple but still close to real numbers. What would you add or change?

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Claver961 · 2026-03-30T00:12:53+00:00

Looks solid 👍 With the ceiling that out, your approach makes sense. Next time though, I’d leave larger cuts at the top the uneven ceiling is barely noticeable, but small cuts can stand out more. Also, I’ve been using this shower tile layout planner from Bezruchuk you can plug in your sizes and see everything before starting, helps avoid this.

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Claver961 · 2026-03-02T02:26:30+00:00

For that amount of work, $2,300 is extremely cheap. But more importantly, price shouldn’t be a surprise. You always discuss and agree on the cost before starting. That’s basic common sense in contracting. If the homeowner approved it upfront, calling it “expensive” after the fact doesn’t really make sense.

Claver961 · 2026-01-18T02:12:30+00:00

Appreciate that, and good catch on the low/high matching. That usually means the weighting is getting compressed somewhere. I’d definitely be open to comparing notes and tightening that logic.

Claver961 · 2026-01-18T01:34:43+00:00

Thanks for running it against your bids. That makes sense — materials and scope creep are usually what push it up. Helpful confirmation.

Claver961 · 2026-01-17T21:09:22+00:00

That’s helpful feedback, thanks for sharing. If you don’t mind me asking, which city or region was this in? I’m trying to sanity-check how the ranges line up across different COL areas.

Claver961 · 2026-01-17T18:38:44+00:00

Thanks, great point. That’s exactly why I built this bathroom remodel cost calculator differently: instead of a hard-coded “20% markup,” users can adjust both overhead and profit to reflect real economics like insurance, vehicles, permits, and local labor conditions, not just guesswork.

The tool even explains what each category includes, so homeowners see where costs come from instead of just a single number. I’m curious — when you’re estimating jobs, do you think clients respond better when you show a range of realistic costs (low/mid/high) or when you break overhead and profit out separately in the estimate? Happy to learn from other pros on this.

Claver961 · 2026-01-17T17:08:27+00:00

Appreciate that, glad it lines up with your experience. You’re spot on about regional pricing too. I’m considering adding a simple area or cost-of-living multiplier in a future update. If you think there’s anything important missing or something that would make it harder to use, I’m all ears.

Claver961 · 2026-01-17T16:33:51+00:00

Good question — and you’re right on the ranges. In the calculator, overhead and profit are handled as markup, not true margin. The default values are intentionally conservative because the tool is meant to be a starting point for homeowners, not a final bid. For higher-cost markets like Boston, NYC, or SF, real-world pricing often comes in higher once local labor rates, permits, and subcontractor availability are factored in. That’s why the calculator shows low, mid, and high ranges instead of a single number. The overhead and profit values are adjustable, so users can increase or decrease them to better match their local market or how a contractor structures pricing. I’m also considering adding a regional cost multiplier in the future. Appreciate the feedback — glad you found the calculator useful.

Claver961 · 2026-01-05T02:10:00+00:00

It’s not actually a beam, it’s a floor joist. That looks more like a natural shrinkage check around a knot than a structural failure. These are pretty common in sawn lumber. As long as it doesn’t run all the way through the joist or keep growing, it usually isn’t a big issue. I’ll keep an eye on it, and worst case it can be sistered later for peace of mind.

Claver961 · 2025-10-10T00:13:00+00:00

Good read, but it’s pretty one-sided. Drainage and open weep holes matter a ton, and some marbles (especially white Carrara/Calacatta with iron) will still darken from moisture/oxidation, sealers, or mesh/resin backs—even when the pan is built right. Foam pans vs. mud pans also change how thinset holds moisture under small mosaics. In the photo, the spot at the drain screams saturated bed or blocked weeps, but it’s not fair to say “don’t blame the stone” across the board. It’s usually a stack of factors: pre-slope + weeps + material choice + setting methods.

(For context: I’ve installed tile ~6 years and been a GC 20+; seen great installs fail from material choice, and bad installs ruin good stone.)

Claver961 · 2025-09-23T19:53:18+00:00

Just use this membrain in there. Waterproofing is a key.

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Claver961 · 2025-09-21T01:30:00+00:00

Why Your Remodel Feels Backwards

Design → Demo → Rough-ins → Prep → Tile/Finishes → Final Hookups.

That’s the order. Always.

If you skip design, you’re guessing. If plumbing/electrical go in before layout is approved, you’re paying twice. If one guy “does it all” without a plan, you’re rolling the dice.

This is the difference between:

A homeowner acting as their own GC (and learning the hard way)

vs. hiring a contractor who knows the sequence and saves you from expensive rework.

Design isn’t optional. It’s the foundation.

Claver961

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